I want to know what not to do and whats the best way to do it that will show the best results, and what would I need to look out for.What materials would I need?

 

Sand paper

 

What kind of sand paper? meaning grip

 

grit?

 

what are you trying to achieve from sanding it down?

 

There are hundreds of different types of sandpaper to use. They are broke up in two main catagorys: wet and dry.

What type of look are you trying to achieve?

 

a paint job

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GURU-DA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a paint job</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL @ Captain Obvious

 

 

use 1500 grit to sand down the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use 1500 grit to sand down the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and do it by hand

 

any more tips?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use 1500 grit to sand down the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freshdot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and do it by hand </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use 1500 grit to sand down the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

HELL NO.

If you plan on spraying the entire car with color, sand with 400(dry). If your planning on reclearing, use 800(dry).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike9571 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

HELL NO.

If you plan on spraying the entire car with color, sand with 400(dry). If your planning on reclearing, use 800(dry).</TD></TR></TABLE>yup or use a RED 3M scuff pad! they work wonders. and last

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kiddcarbuff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup or use a RED 3M scuff pad! they work wonders. and last</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats only needed after you sand. Also for little areas you cant get to. But definetly not to sand a entire car with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freshdot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and do it by hand </TD></TR></TABLE>
Using a block is best.

 

go to an auto body supply store/jobber and buy some quality sandpaper like 3M, Norton or Mirka. Buy the bulk packs of 50 if you have to, but alot of jobbers will have "job" packs of 5-10. Buy some 180 grit DRY and 400 grit WET paper. Buy some wax and grease remover and lint free napkins. Also buy a hand block (5-6 inch should be fine).

Before you start wash the entire car VERY VERY thoroughly with comet and strong dishwashing detergant. Then use the lint free cloths and was/grease remover to remove any remaining surface contaminants. Ask the guys you buy it from the proper way to use this stuff.

Use the hand block for straight panels and a sponge (very slightly damp so it will flex) for curved panels. Use the paper in an "X" crossing motion so you are constantly working against the grain.

Start off with the 180 grit and do the entire car. Work in 2x2 ft areas removing all the orange peel and whatever very minor waves you are trying to remove are gone. Be VERY careful around edges and corners. The paint is very thin there and you do not want to burn through to the metal. You'll see what I mean as soon as you sand through the clear coat. The base coat will pop out. Move to the next area.

It would also be extremely convenient to have an air compressor to blow the dust so you can see what you are doing. Otherwise just keep the area clean with a soft bristled bench brush or something.

Once you are done with the 180, do the entire car with the 400 wet. Soak the paper in some soapy water for about 10 minutes before you use it. Keep the car very wet using a hose or something. The wetter the better. Use the paper on a sponge over the entire car in circular motion ala karate kid. The idea here is to remove all of the 180 grit scratches you put in the paint earlier. Its works well to use a bondo spreader (also available from the jobber) to "sqweegee" all the water from an area so that it dries and you can see the scratches.

 

in for the info!

 

seriously, there's a very nice thread that touches all the steps you need to prep your car by yourself. search for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikolai. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to an auto body supply store/jobber and buy some quality sandpaper like 3M, Norton or Mirka. Buy the bulk packs of 50 if you have to, but alot of jobbers will have "job" packs of 5-10. Buy some 180 grit DRY and 400 grit WET paper. Buy some wax and grease remover and lint free napkins. Also buy a hand block (5-6 inch should be fine).

Before you start wash the entire car VERY VERY thoroughly with comet and strong dishwashing detergant. Then use the lint free cloths and was/grease remover to remove any remaining surface contaminants. Ask the guys you buy it from the proper way to use this stuff.

Use the hand block for straight panels and a sponge (very slightly damp so it will flex) for curved panels. Use the paper in an "X" crossing motion so you are constantly working against the grain.

Start off with the 180 grit and do the entire car. Work in 2x2 ft areas removing all the orange peel and whatever very minor waves you are trying to remove are gone. Be VERY careful around edges and corners. The paint is very thin there and you do not want to burn through to the metal. You'll see what I mean as soon as you sand through the clear coat. The base coat will pop out. Move to the next area.

It would also be extremely convenient to have an air compressor to blow the dust so you can see what you are doing. Otherwise just keep the area clean with a soft bristled bench brush or something.

Once you are done with the 180, do the entire car with the 400 wet. Soak the paper in some soapy water for about 10 minutes before you use it. Keep the car very wet using a hose or something. The wetter the better. Use the paper on a sponge over the entire car in circular motion ala karate kid. The idea here is to remove all of the 180 grit scratches you put in the paint earlier. Its works well to use a bondo spreader (also available from the jobber) to "sqweegee" all the water from an area so that it dries and you can see the scratches.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There are somethings I agree on and some I dont. But everyone has there own way. 1st I dont usually go with 180 dry, 2nd I still kinda do a X pattern when I am wetsanding and not a circular motion. Lastly the "sqweegee" you are talking about is not a bondo spreader. It is actually called a sqweegee...I can see how you think its a bondo spreader, same shape and all. But its made of rubber and alittle smaller.

But I am not trying to step on your toes at all. I thought it was a great post and everyone has there own ways. I learned that after visiting different shops. I would say you could easly use your methods and come across just fine. Either way here is a good website to go to. I have found it to be one of the best forums for people looking for automotive help.
autobody101.com

 

i agree 100% on autobody101. im sure there is a better tool than a bondo spreader. i used a bondo spreader on my car and it worked quite well. and i can see where you are going with the 180. it really depends on how much material you wanna remove. 180 will just make the initial blocking that much faster but the wetsanding will be more work. i guess it depends on whether you want more work in the front end or the back end. as an alternative to what i said earlier, you could also use 220 grit. if the car has had a repaint already DEFINATELY start with the 180. It will save you alot of trouble.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nikolai. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree 100% on autobody101. im sure there is a better tool than a bondo spreader. i used a bondo spreader on my car and it worked quite well. and i can see where you are going with the 180. it really depends on how much material you wanna remove. 180 will just make the initial blocking that much faster but the wetsanding will be more work. i guess it depends on whether you want more work in the front end or the back end. as an alternative to what i said earlier, you could also use 220 grit. if the car has had a repaint already DEFINATELY start with the 180. It will save you alot of trouble.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.