Okay guys i went out and got a Pyle PWD501, I know it wasnt the greatest idea but i had many friends that gave me great review. and + everyone here in HT is all about DEI..anyhow i got everything to work. but as for the remote start, its tweeking. the clutch has been by pass and everthing has been set. it only works when i unplug the positive wire and replug it again. its able to start and shut down. but after 10 to20 mins it wont start. will only start again if i unplug that positive wire. i believe everything is all set but thats the only thing that im stuck on for the past couple hours. can anyone help out?? This is the color diagram I have to work with most wires are self explanatory but others I might be hooking it up wrong. Please tell me which ones i dont need. Also does anyone knows where the rollup window wire (or) color wire is located:

Red 12v
Green ignition 2 output +
Blue Accessory output +
Yellow ignition 1 input +
Black/yellow starter output +

Black ground –
Gray/black tachometer input
Orange/Violet glow plug +/-
Pink remote start input –
Black/red remote start output (–) 500mA
Orange/ Gray hood input (-)
Yellowblack Programmable Output (-) 500mA

Modified by chinoty at 9:18 PM 3/2/2007


Modified by chinoty at 9:19 PM 3/2/2007

 

Well you answered your own problem. you went out and bought a garbage alarm system when there are about 100 post on why you should not by them. Now your going to pay twice. You should go ahead and remove that unit out your car before it cause real serious damage to your 12 car system. Which could run into the 1k's if it has to go to a dealer to be repaired. I had a customer that went thru the same thing. This is not the 80's anymore. Pyle is no longer a reputable company. The origanal people sold out. I can bet $1 that no one on here has installed one or would want to touch that alarm with a ten foot pole or there wire strippers.

 

Well you would be wrong about that, "I can bet $1 that no one on here has installed one" sent dollar to your favorite charity.

But I wouldn't touch one again, like the brand name says Pyle, as in pile of chit. 94


Modified by fcm at 6:00 PM 3/2/2007

 

Fcm I am a man of my word I will find the first place to donate and double that by $20 I would not install one of those again after what happen to the last cheap remote start that I installed.

 

okay guys i already know it was a mistake. but im really in need of some help. can anyone give some pointers on where i should start trouble shooting.

 

It could be a bad tach signal. But it starts and does not work after 15 min so I am saying it the brain. Trash it and get a retuable unit. Or your going to look like avatar pulling out your hair. I have a new 791 that won't have this problem if you install it for cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chinoty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay guys i already know it was a mistake. but im really in need of some help. can anyone give some pointers on where i should start trouble shooting. </TD></TR></TABLE>Yea sorry, couldn't help it.

I need more info to be of any help....

The Pyle PWD501 is a Pyle alarm with optional remote start module and there are a lot more wires then the 12 you list.

On the last page of the manual, [24] is the wire guide for both the alarm and remote start module, starting at the top, [alarm module, blue - lock relay common 30] what wires are you using and what wires in the cars stock harness are they connected to and are they working all the time.
EG; the first harness is for door locks, the unit has built in relays for door locks so any type of door lock system can be integrated, including adding power door locks to your car.
If you are not using them, or you are and the door locks work all the time, tell me so. 94


PS, MM&Y of car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea sorry, couldn't help it.

I need more info to be of any help....

The Pyle PWD501 is a Pyle alarm with optional remote start module and there are a lot more wires then the 12 you list.

On the last page of the manual, [24] is the wire guide for both the alarm and remote start module, starting at the top, [alarm module, blue - lock relay common 30] what wires are you using and what wires in the cars stock harness are they connected to and are they working all the time.
EG; the first harness is for door locks, the unit has built in relays for door locks so any type of door lock system can be integrated, including adding power door locks to your car.
If you are not using them, or you are and the door locks work all the time, tell me so. 94


PS, MM&Y of car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes there are more wires from the main brain and you are correct this is an add on remote start from pyle. that page where you saw the diagram is the excate one i have, i've been working off that for hours...that lock relay common 30 is connect directly to the green/white door locks as the other unlock relay common 30 is connected to the green/red. my car is a 95 coupe ex with power door locks. both lock and unlock are working properly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could be a bad tach signal. But it starts and does not work after 15 min so I am saying it the brain. Trash it and get a retuable unit. Or your going to look like avatar pulling out your hair. I have a new 791 that won't have this problem if you install it for cheap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

since you have mention, the car would NOT start at all after the first initial start-up. so i know the system works, just why it only works once...

but any ideas on where i should start, i've been on it all day and i'm losing hope..

 

OK now I know what you connected the blue and green leads to in the car, and that you have done it correctly, you also connected the 2 black/reds to ground and did not use blue/black and green/black... what about all the other leads that you used, this will become a very long tread if you are only going to give me 2 wires per post.

You say that you can use the remote start one time, and only one time, each time you disconnect the red lead and connect it up again, is that correct?

Does it matter how long after you reconnect the red lead you try and start it, or if you arm the alarm or disarm the alarm or the alarm has gone off, or if you have started the car with the key before you try and remote start it, or will it always remotely start one time?

You also say the clutch is bypassed, I assume you mean the clutch interlock switch, but what do you mean by bypassed, how did you bypass it? 94


Modified by fcm at 7:43 PM 3/2/2007

 

I apologize for not clarifying that up… this is what I did according to the wiring diagram on that chart you saw on pages 24, starting from the top of the diagram:

Blue …………....lock Relay common 30 [10A fuse] ……connected to green/white
Black/red …….lock relay normally open 87 …… connected to 12v
Blue/black…...lock relay normally closed 87a ………………………connected to Blue/red ……door trigger below
Green ……..unlock relay common 30 [10a fuse]……connected to Green/red
Black/red …….unlock relay normally open 87…connected to 12v
Green/black ……unlock relay normally closed 87a …….. connected to Blue/red ……door trigger below

Red.12V battery input +………connected to white wire on ignition
Black ……….ground (-) ……….connected solid metal
Blue …..dome light output (-) 500mA …….not used
Black/yellow………Starter defeat/anti-grind output (-) 500mA
Orange/Violet……. Brake input (+) …… connected to Green/white
Blue/red…….door trigger (+) ……connected to blue/black & green/black from 6 pin wire above
Orange/white .. trunk input (-) …not use
Green/Black………parking light output (+ built in relay)……connected to red/black
Green/yellow……..Parking lights output (+built in relay)…. connected to red/black
Yellow ………ignition input(+) ……connected to Black/yellow
Gray…..siren output (+)3A……….+ on siren (red wire)
Yellow/black…Auxiliary output (-)500mA ……not use
Blue/black…..Door Trigger input (-)…….light green/red wire
Orange / gray……..hood input ……connected to hood pin

Red …………………………….12v ………..connected to white constant wire on ignition
Green ……………………….ignition 2 output + ………… not use
Blue Accessory output +…………………………not use
Yellow ignition 1 input +………..black/yellow
Black/yellow starter output + ………connected to relay (30) on blue wire & blue/white (starter)
Black ground – …………………………………solid metal
Gray/black tachometer input……………..connected to blue wire by distributer 2 pin
Orange/Violet glow plug +/- ………….not use
Pink remote start input – ……………..not use for now
Black/red remote start output (–) 500mA ……….grounded solid metal
Orange/ Gray hood input (-) ……………not used
Yellowblack Programmable Output (-) 500mA………..not use

This is what I have so far. When I unplug the red wire from the remote start and let it sit for 3 mins tops and reconnect, the car will remotely start and shut off correctly. But, only for the first initial time then no more after that. The alarm is able to arm and disarm perfectly after that remotely shut off. But when I take off the red wire and connect immediately within 20 secs, it will not start at all. All other alarm components will work just fine. Regarding the clutch, I went ahead and by passed it with grounding the black/blue & blue/black to a solid ground.. I am able to manually use the key and start up the car w/out using the clutch. When the car is remotely started I am able to unlock and get in the car using the key to turn to ignition point and move the car. Works fine also when I use the brakes to shut off the car.

 

Well I take it back, you did not wire the door locks correctly, and I am not sure why the even work.
The door locks on a 95 Civic are a type B system. neg.(-) triggered
You should be wired as I said, your blue and green are correct but the black/reds should be connected to ground not 12V and the blue/black and green/black should not be connected at all, you should be using negative pulse lock system, first one on page 23.
I would not be at all surprised if this is what is latching the system up.

The red 12V batt. input, although it should work on the white ign. harness I would move it to another 12V constant circuit, but only if the door lock outputs are not the problem.

The red/blue- door trigger output (+) is only used for cars that have pos.(+) door triggers, [Ford] your Civic has neg.(-) door triggers, and it would never be connected to anything else definitely not the door lock outputs.

The black/red- remote start output is not a ground lead, it has a ground output when remote start is activated, it should be connected to the clutch interlock switches output, blue/black, to "bypass" the switch during remote start, clutch interlock switch will work normally when starting with key.

One more thing, although not needed for remote start, why have you not connected the blue - accessory output to the cars yellow acc. lead at ign. harness?
For that matter why have you not connected the orange/white - trunk input, you can use the stock switch, lead found in blue plug above fuse box green/black 2 silver dots, [4 door] and green 2 silver dots, [2 doors].

As I said the way you have the door lock outputs wired may be the problem, so start by correcting that, move the red/blacks from 12V to ground and disconnect the blue/black and green/black from the blue/red door trigger (+), you can pull all 3 out of the harnesses as they are not needed. 94

 

okay did excatly what you stated the doors are now correct and the blue accessory wire is connected to the yellow wire on the ignition. all three wire are pulled and not connected. but i am still having the same issue. doors are able to lock/unlock. remote start is haveing the same issue. once its started and turn off from the remote. it will no longer start, until i disconnect the power lead wire from the remote start module. do you know of any other trouble shooting i should do??? btw theres the black/red wire located on the remote start module, i have connected to the black/blue wire on the clutch switch and still same issue. on top of that when i connected to any ground or 12v or any other lead the remote does not recognized it and will remote start for the first initial time. im thinking that wire is causing a lot of issue dont know where that goes to. it states (GROUND WHEN RUNNING OUTPUT (-). THIS WIRE PROVIDES A GROUND WHEN THE REMOTE START IS ENGAGED TO ACTIVATE AND OPTIONAL FACTORY SECUIRITY BYPASS MODULE..) PLEASE HELP..


Modified by chinoty at 6:03 PM 3/4/2007

 

Have you tried the manual transmission "ready mode"? page 7 of manual. 94

What did you program the "REMOTE START PROGRAMMABLE FEATURES" #4, [Manual Transmission Mode] to? page 18. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Have you tried the manual transmission "ready mode"? page 7 of manual. 94

What did you program the "REMOTE START PROGRAMMABLE FEATURES" #4, [Manual Transmission Mode] to? page 18. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

BTW, you’ve been given me a lot of help and troubleshooting tips on where to start looking and I appreciated it very much. I personally thank you for being a dedicated member. If you were any closer to where I live, Bar & Grill on me... Anyhow, I’ve was told that on the manual transmission, as long as I have the clutch bypass all of the information on the page 7 would not apply. That’s why I’ve been glancing through that part of the manual. I think I was told wrong. But I will certainly try that. What I’m reading sounds a little confusing and I might need some clarification. If I’m interpreting this correctly, if I remotely start / remotely shut off the car (without entering) and “ONCE” I disarmed/unlock car, after that point I “wouldn’t” be able to remotely start again?? Would I have to go through one of these sequences to remotely start the car?? As for the programming, I have not made any programming just default on both the alarm and remote start. I will try that ASAP and let you know how everything turns out. BTW with all the information I’ve given you. Do you think its been install properly or do you think it’s a matter my misunderstanding on how this system works??

 

I am not sure about the info you where given. but I would try using one of the M/T shut downs.
The ground out when remote starting can be used for clutch interlock switch, it will supply the ground the starter relay needs so motor will turn over when clutch is not stepped on.

Other then the things we changed I am pretty sure everything is connected properly, as everything works, even remote starting, [one time].

I would try the M/T modes. 94

 

This unit does not have a test feature to see what casusing this problem?

 

There is no test feature that I can think of. The only thing that comes close to a test feature is the LED light for the direct reading of the TACH. Every thing works so i think it was the MT mode that FCM was mentioning about. My work place got me working all week long for OT so I might not be able to test out till the weekend. i also bought a NRG QR/SH/LOCK for some added security and some relays for kill switches.