B18C ITR Block, LS crank(long stroke), LS shotpeened rods, B16 ceramic coated pistons + ITR head 0.02 Milled, Mugen 2 layer Headgaeasket, High CP valves. Will put in Pro1s.

1. How much CP does this setup have.
2. How much WPH am I looking to put down with this setup if dyno tuned with JDM ITR Headers + 2.5 Cat back + CAI. Approx. + Range?

deciding should I do it this way or just keep my Stock USDM ITR Block as is and spend the money to work on the head

 

how much are you willing to spend to begin with...or is all this going to cost you?

 

either i pick the block for CAN $800 or spend around $ 1000 for others

 

you have to ask yourself what kind of performance you're really expecting....and where the car is going to be driven and if any, what events....

 

You're looking at about 12:1 or higher on the CR. Depends on which B16A pistons you're using. USDM B16A2 pistons in an otherwise stock B18C5 will give you 11.3:1. JDM SiR II pistons will give you 11.5:1. That's without any other modifications.

As for whp, that depends on tuning and other variables. I won't even venture a guess.

My advice is:

1. Forget the LS crank. Yes, it can give you a little better midrange, but unless you're sleeving too for even more displacement, I don't think it's a cost-effective change. If you have to rebuild the bottom end, I suggest just dropping in some SiR II pistons and leaving the rest stock. The rest of the money can be better spent on a better header or mild headwork and some tuning.

2. Don't mill the head. OK, OK, lots of people do it with no ill effects. Personally, I don't like the way it alters cam timing and I don't like the idea of diminished valve clearance on a B-Series. More than that, though, you simply don't need to do it if you're willing to rebuild the bottom end with new, higher compression pistons anyway.

3. Keep the OEM head gasket thickness. Again, if you're willing to rebuild the bottom end, you don't need to use quickie methods to bump the CR. Just select pistons that yield the desired CR. Not that thinner headgaskets are a terrible product, but my own preference is to change as few parts as possible to achieve the desired result. Fewer changed parts usually means fewer complications, especially with clearance issues.