can you use the ARP moly lube to lube the cams and cam caps?

 

I prefer to use oil or assembly lube. Moly lube seems kind of gritty to me but upon some more reseach I see that many cam manufacturers include moly lube so I guess it would be fine.




Modified by Boner_Ben at 12:27 PM 2/24/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boner_Ben &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, use oil or assembly lube.</TD></TR></TABLE>

/done.
may i ask why?
people do use moly lube on domestic builds, because their cams are splashed oiled and need to stay lubed up untill the oil splashes on them.

if it is a new engine, use assy. lube. if it is just a cam swap, as long as you get the t-belt on right, oil is fine.

 

i use assembly lube

 

I use KY jelly.

 

ive used lucas and havent had troubles. i usually use that or assembly lube depending on what ive got lying around.

do not use arp moly its just to get accurate tq and not for moving parts (i think it says something about that on the tube)

 

I've heard some engine builders shy away from it when it comes to bearing surfaces. Its basicly a fine powder (anywhere from 1-100 microns) mixed with a liquid lube. Since it oxidizes between 185C and 350C, a sprinkle of the raw dust would probably burn/explode like coal dust can.

Anyways, it can be made fine enough to bypass oil filter media, meaning it stays in the oil. Even a small amount will alter the oil's properties, but you'd have to ask the guys at an oil-testing place to see exactly what effect it has. I'd guess it would make it more viscous, which would rob power offer less flow after your pressure relief valve opens.


Long story short, assembly lube will be fine for the head. Everything in it spins half crank speed, and its the last area to get oil after turning the key. Cams for hondas are usually forged to deal with the crappy sweeper lifter arms we have, and you see a fraction of the bearing loads in the head vs. the crank.

 

clevite ftw