Hello, im planning on disassembling my short block again(2nd time) and honing my cylinder walls with the ball type honing tool and a drill(good or bad idea???), even though the cylinder walls appear to have a good looking cross-hatch.(im installing new rings and pistons).
Im looking for reassurance and am basically extremely worried about sealing/blow-by on this motor and want to avoid leakdown issues.

I have a few dumb questions:

1.will a local auto parts store have what im looking for (ball- type honing tool)?
2.(honing)Is it nessecary with walls having a good cross-hatch?
3.Machine shop vs. Me: Minus the expensive equipment they use.....couldn't I pull off a similar quality job with the ball type honer?
4.Who has done this procedure(looking for help/insight/what to pay attention too)?

Thanks

Thats what a cylinder wall should look like,right???????????
Can you see the cross-hatch??????
Is this glazed???????
Reflection of piston on cylinder wall


Once Again thanks

 

I would be more worried about the pistons you are using, I hope that is a B16a

 

yesr(b16a).I feel comfortable with the pistons im using.Uncomfortable about my ordeal. any help/advice or anything??????

Thanks

 

I would honestly have a shop do it..you got to make sure you make it all even......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorSpecies ver1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a few dumb questions:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, they are very good questions, unlike "How can I make my non-VTEC SOHC D15b pull on B16's all motor?"

Here's a breakdown.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorSpecies ver1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1.will a local auto parts store have what im looking for (ball- type honing tool)?
2.(honing)Is it nessecary with walls having a good cross-hatch?
3.Machine shop vs. Me: Minus the expensive equipment they use.....couldn't I pull off a similar quality job with the ball type honer?
4.Who has done this procedure(looking for help/insight/what to pay attention too)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

1.) When building my father's engine, we used a three-stone, spring-loaded hone. They can be found at many local auto parts stores, and more-often-than-not are available for loan.

2.) A hone is something that may not need done, depending on the mileage of the engine, but I highly recommend it. Why take the chance of parts of the bore being too smooth, and your new rings not seating/sealing 100% properly?

3.) Yes, you can do a similar job. The main difference is that the machine the shop has makes sure the hones goes in perfectly parallel to the cylinder.

4.) Like mentioned earlier, we performed our own hone job on my father's engine block, and his engine is running great to this day.

Good luck.
- Derek

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16nonoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would honestly have a shop do it..you got to make sure you make it all even...... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Has nothing to do with making it "even". You need to first measure the cylidners to check for out-of-round and wear. If they are within the limits of wear, check the taper as well. Once this all checks out, you are good to hone. The important part of the hone is the grit of stone (or *****) you use. I believe the helm calls for a 400 grit stone/ball. The second most important part of honing is the degree at which you cut the crosshatch. This is only controlled by you and has to do with the speed at which you go up and down. 60 degrees is optimal. Too steep and the oil won't stay on the cylinder walls, too flat and you will have too much oil on the cylinder walls and run into oil consumption issues. Keep in mind that the block should be COMPLETELY stripped (including the oil jets and crank) before you start honing. Once done, wash it with a mild hot soapy water completely until the rag comes out clean. Rinse and then IMMEDIATELY oil the cylinder walls.

BTW: Are those CTR pistons I see?

That block doesn't look TOO bad, but the cylinder walls are slightly glazed. I would hone that if it were mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorSpecies ver1.6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello, im planning on disassembling my short block again(2nd time) and honing my cylinder walls with the ball type honing tool and a drill(good or bad idea???), even though the cylinder walls appear to have a good looking cross-hatch.(im installing new rings and pistons).
Im looking for reassurance and am basically extremely worried about sealing/blow-by on this motor and want to avoid leakdown issues.

I have a few dumb questions:

1.will a local auto parts store have what im looking for (ball- type honing tool)?
2.(honing)Is it nessecary with walls having a good cross-hatch?
3.Machine shop vs. Me: Minus the expensive equipment they use.....couldn't I pull off a similar quality job with the ball type honer?
4.Who has done this procedure(looking for help/insight/what to pay attention too)? </TD></TR></TABLE>

1- yes

2 - definately not. your walls look great. only thing i would do is take some 600 grit sandpaper and break the top parts of carbon buildup off the motor. done it plenty of times. also, having worked at a machine shop for years, i can say for all the customers who do not overbore as reccomended, usually a quick hone with the brushes NOT THE STONES SIMILAR TO WHAT COMES WITH THE FLEX HONES. and take the sandpaper to the top of the bore.

3 - hell no. your hone cannot feel the tight spots, your hone does not have the different coarsenesses necessary. there is a lot of reasons why they are better.

4 - i have. but only on motors that have surface rust on the walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RPRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 - definately not. your walls look great. only thing i would do is take some 600 grit sandpaper and break the top parts of carbon buildup off the motor. done it plenty of times. also, having worked at a machine shop for years, i can say for all the customers who do not overbore as reccomended, usually a quick hone with the brushes NOT THE STONES SIMILAR TO WHAT COMES WITH THE FLEX HONES. and take the sandpaper to the top of the bore. </TD></TR></TABLE>Brushes????? do you mean the 600 grit?

Thanks

 

no. i mean brushes. not stones. they are actually brushes.

 

what i would do in your case is just to use 600 grit on the top of the bores.

i was saying if you took it to a machine shop and insisted on not overboring, they they would just use 600 on the top to break the carbon and then use honing brushes real quick to clean up the bores. takes about 2 minutes to do the work. they'd spend more time setting up the machine and whatnot