I’m looking for Advice on what type of clutch to buy. I've just changed to a 99 type R transmission.

I do mostly road race style Driving some slip clutch but i don’t want to worry about it slipping if i decide to launch at 6k rpm every now and then. I like a stiff pedal and to feel when its actually grabbing.

A fiber clutch is out of the question.

My last clutch was a non sprung solid hub 3 puck ceramic with the ACT extreme pressure plate. it Grabbed good but was choppy chatters like hell (enough to break the dashboard loose at all its mounting points).


I really liked the Centerforce dual friction on my Saleen but the honda style one does not have their special weights that make their clutches worth buying. I have never met anyone that has one in their honda to compair it. they seem over priced . not that i wouldn't spend 500 on a clutch but probably just not that one..

This is a picture of my current clutch. i liked it when it was new. but after about 1000 miles it was slipping a bit if i tried to make it grab at over 5k rpm.. it was custom made for me.




Modified by ChickenH at 12:18 PM 2/20/2007

 

What kind of power are you making?

Can you resize that photo a little? Say, 800x800? Scrolling to read a post really spoils the fun for everyone...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChickenH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I’m looking for Advice on what type of clutch to buy. I've just changed to a 99 type R transmission.

I do mostly road race style Driving some slip clutch but i don’t want to worry about it slipping if i decide to launch at 6k rpm every now and then. I like a stiff pedal and to feel when its actually grabbing.This is a picture of my current clutch. i liked it when it was new. but after about 1000 miles it was slipping a bit if i tried to make it grab at over 5k rpm.. it was custom made for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why would you "drop" the clutch @ 6K in a FWD unless you want to spin tires? If you make stock power, use a stock clutch. I have been racing on a stock ctuch (with standing starts) for 3 years now and it still grabs.

 

Well as it sits this is my set up.
built pistons, rods, portedhead, 1mm over valves, cams, crank work, and on and on and on ..b16a1

But its getting sleeves and diffrent pistons as we speak
it dynoed 192hp last time i built it, it revs to 10,500rpm.

So not exactly stock but still driven on the street when im bored, and on the way to the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrianZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why would you "drop" the clutch @ 6K in a FWD unless you want to spin tires? If you make stock power, use a stock clutch. I have been racing on a stock ctuch (with standing starts) for 3 years now and it still grabs. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i never drop the clutch. The car has slicks and i dont want broken parts and tire smoke for no reason if i can help it. My factory clutch didnt last a month of driving to work at honda and 3 trips to the track. my motor does not make much power in the lower rpm range and I try not to let it fall out of power range on the track.

 

With that kind of power, I think most people would be very happy with the ACT street clutch I run in my H1 car. But you seem to be having more issues than most people.

To be honest, it sounds like you are kinda hard on clutches. You should not be having the problems you've described with what I would consider "typical" power output. Two possible causes are:
1. Poor clutch adjustment
2. Driver induced abuse

Since you have a hydraulic clutch, I'm guessing it isn't number one. I'm not pointing a finger and saying for sure its your driving. But I am suggesting you be honest with yourself if that might be the cause. A change in driving style is a lot cheaper in the long run than clutch and drive-line part replacement...

 

I love my ACT clutch. I have a heavy duty pressure plate, and extreme disc, i think. I used it for street driving, and four track days on a SOHC turbo, 15 psi, around 200 hp. A couple trips to the strip, around 15 passes, and it has zero burn marks, and looks brand new. No chatter, no slip, and it has a good pedal feel.

 

With a setup like that something like an Exedy organic, or anything mild along those lines should be more than adequate.

 

is it a rr car, auto x car, drag car or daily driver, or a little of each?

 

A clutch I have been using, and know of others using is Competition clutch, stage 3.

It remains very streetable, my only beef is that in a lot of stop and go, it will get very chattery, and you are required to rev much higher than you normally would, but its still driveable.

On track, for HPDE's I love it. It never gets chattery, and the engagement is very short, but very easy to revmatch when downshifting, and engage smoothly.

It did take a little getting used to, but I am muuuuch happier with this than my previous ACT setup(have used both the HDSS, and XTSS)

 

I've used the Action 1MD on my street/track/race turbo ITR. It was chattery for some reason, but held up fine. The 2MD had a really stiff pedal, but didn't chatter, and held up a long time. I'd buy it again. This car has a lot more power than what you're making too.

I've also had no complaints about ACT (besides a broken pressure plate) or Centerforce.

 

i like the stock type R clutch myself. no matter if its supecharged, turbocharged, or NA, we've ran type R clutches, ACT, Action, clutchnet, and centerforce on all the setups. the Type R has stood up to 250hp in many different forms and still holds fast, for MANY MANY miles of use. if it was treated right, just simply changing out the friction disc and resurfacing the flywheel is enough to bring it back to near-new. act's and actions are all good choices too, so really you cant go too wrong at your power level.

if it were me, type R stock clutch.

 

Is your action 2 md a Spring dampend one or the non. They make both. I wonder if a non dampend clutch would be harder on my brand new transmission. I do not mind a stiff pedal Im still using the cable with an adaptor for the hydraulic trans.