what are the best intake, headers, and exhaust for a N/A gsr looking for power

 

j's whale *****,jdm itr 4-1,t1r with tanabe exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC TWOin IT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">j's whale *****,jdm itr 4-1,t1r with tanabe exhaust. </TD></TR></TABLE>


This is all a matter of opinion from person to person, but I would have to say
1. ITR AEM CAI 3'' :https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1194241&page=1
this intake killed the J's racing intake by 12whp
2. RMF, SMSP, DTR, Hytech, other custom header. They are good for more hp than an ITR header. Here are some good headers: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1870263. Just search the All Motor thread and you will find all kinds of info on good headers.
3. Well there you can take opinion vs opinion, personally I like 2.5 custom with a twin loop. It is cheaper for me to go to my friends shop and have him custom make me my piping and then throw a test pipe/twin loop on.
Good luck and if you are planning on going NA I suggest you check out the All Motor forum for more info.

Again these are all my opinions, but some are dyno proven

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


This is all a matter of opinion from person to person, but I would have to say
1. ITR AEM CAI 3'' :https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1194241&page=1
this intake killed the J's racing intake by 12whp
2. RMF, SMSP, DTR, Hytech, other custom header. They are good for more hp than an ITR header. Here are some good headers: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1870263. Just search the All Motor thread and you will find all kinds of info on good headers.
3. Well there you can take opinion vs opinion, personally I like 2.5 custom with a twin loop. It is cheaper for me to go to my friends shop and have him custom make me my piping and then throw a test pipe/twin loop on.
Good luck and if you are planning on going NA I suggest you check out the All Motor forum for more info.

Again these are all my opinions, but some are dyno proven
</TD></TR></TABLE>

true ..but some of those header i believe will not clear if a/c is taken out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by intrestness &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are the best intake, headers, and exhaust for a N/A gsr looking for power</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sweet foking Jesus! What is the deal with the 07' members?

Broseph, everything is a matter of opinion. What one guy says you may not dig at all. Search, read and educate yourself. Come to your own conclusions.

Your exact question has been asked a bazillion times over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC TWOin IT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

true ..but some of those header i believe will not clear if a/c is taken out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean if AC is still in? I know RMF can make a header to clear AC,PS. I'm sure the rest can if you contact them directly.
A friend of mine has an RMF in his H22 pwrd coupe and he has cold AC. But some wont. It all depends on what your plans are.
Honestly if you are trying build a car for power and are willing to spend $700-$1400 on a header I don't think you are too worried about AC, or maybe that is just me. Hell I am taking mine out before I even build for my tuck. It looks so much better without AC,PS,ABS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Your exact question has been asked a bazillion times over.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And you know as well as I do it will be asked a bazillion time more....this month.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlammedDC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you know as well as I do it will be asked a bazillion time more....this month.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty much.

The Comptech and Hytech exhaust mani's clear AC and PS components. But you will pay out the nose for one...I know that from experience

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Pretty much.

The Comptech and Hytech exhaust mani's clear AC and PS components. But you will pay out the nose for one...I know that from experience </TD></TR></TABLE>
Quality parts will always cost more than EBay,DC whatever.
I plan on going with SMSP and plan to pay through the nose myself.

 

haha yea if a/c is still in. i had 2 things in my head while typing. the cost a header by one of those brands are a pretty penny

 

Oh God and you will, and I'm sure you know. When I did my N/A build on my ITR I threw on a Hytech 2.0L mani with the anti-reversion chambers. Two piece. Very nice quality I must say. $1,400.00 cough, cough.

Heck, when my R was turbo'ed my mani for that was the same price. But it was so beautiful. It was literally metal art.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> It was literally metal art.</TD></TR></TABLE>
They really are aren't they

 

Picture time? Okay.

My N/A mani by Hytech. Off the website. Picture is too damn small.


My Turbo mani by Full-Race. Off the website.

 

only thing that stands close to that is heaven.

no heatwrap?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC TWOin IT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">only thing that stands close to that is heaven.

no heatwrap? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh it was heat wrapped. I was running an EGT gauge and I was shocked that combustion tempuratures at full boost were in the 1,600 degrees F range. I vividly remember baking the paint on my hood directly over the turbo mani. I heat wrapped it, and it helped drastically.

Though it cut down on tempuratures, heat wrap will kill any metal over time, even stainless as it will hold in moisture.

 

holy shizz!!!!!

1600F.haha. hang some marshmellows over that and sing kumbaiyaa

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC TWOin IT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy shizz!!!!!

1600F.haha. hang some marshmellows over that and sing kumbaiyaa</TD></TR></TABLE>

People don't realize just how hot a forced induction engine really runs. It is also critical to install an EGT gauge as it will show any signs of detonation. Once you've determined a baseline for operating tempuratures, it's quite simple to see if something is out of wack.

If I can remember correctly, daily driving in low to no boost was in the 1200 to 1300 degrees F range. You could roast more than marshmallows. You could grill a steak.

 

and grill a steak pretty quickly.

how did you cool your car? via air or oil cooled?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC TWOin IT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and grill a steak pretty quickly.

how did you cool your car? via air or oil cooled?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was actually quite simple. I ran a slightly heavier weight oil. Since that turbo manifold puts the waste gate right there...I had to go with a 1/2 size radiator. I used a Fluidyne piece ment for a Civic. The radiator is double the core thickness over an OEM radiator, so that told me that the new radiator would hold the same, if not slightly more coolant.

On the radiator I had a Maradyne 'puller' fan. SPOON hoses. For safety sake, I used stainless steel T clamps on the hoses. Used an OEM thermostat and fan switch.

Even in 100 degree weather the car never showed any signs of running too hot.

Some guys will run low temp thermostats and fan switches on boosted cars, but that ***** with the ideal operatiing tempuratures too much.