Anyone have a ported head.....if so, results?
Anyone in here have a ported head? And what about a port matched intake and TB to boot? If so, what exactly have you done to your head and what kind of results have you seen?
i have a friend whose old setup was a B16, CTR cams, Skunk2 intake manifold, and I/H/E. all in a crx. with some other small items like a fuel pressure regulator and MSD, his car was definitely running 13's. all thanks to the headwork he did. my suggestion is to look inside the intake and exhaust ports and locate the divider that splits the port into the two passages going into the combustion chamber. on my friend's head, he had knife edged this divider. you could cut yourself on it because it was so sharp. he also had enlarged his exhaust ports slightly, and polished the whole thing with sandpaper in a 800/1600/800 (grit) pattern. it is important to leave the surface a little bit bumpy in order for the air to pass over it and atomize with the fuel. all this headwork was done with a dremel tool and sandpaper, and then hot tanked at napa to clean all the particles out of the head. total cost:~$100. the gain: great throttle response, especially once the head was on his LSVTEC he built that was fully balanced. this novel is over..
my head was built for high end power.. worked great.. built another head.. sold it to imfamousRS on HT.. he built an ls/vtec with his car.. so check out his post in hyrid forum
it is important to leave the surface a little bit bumpy in order for the air to pass over it and atomize with the fuel
-Dustin
Racers like Bisi Ezerioha and Larry Widmer have commented that the intake ports should be left ROUGH. This prevents fuel from condensing on the port surfaces. It hasn't got any thing to do with swirl. The shape of the port and the cam determine swirl. Larry has commented that the bowl surface next to the injector is left rough enough to grate cheese.
Charles
Charles
headwork in my opinion is very tricky, if you don't have a clue at what you are doing you can loose horsepower. A benchflow tester is needed to see if you are increasing or decreasing velocity. If done right headwork can net very nice improvments.
I had portflow build my head. It cost an arm and a leg but worth every penny.
www.portflow.com
I had portflow build my head. It cost an arm and a leg but worth every penny.
www.portflow.com
I was thinking about getting the JG Dynamics head package for the CRX. It comes with a complete racing head, cams, port matched intake manifold and TB. How much HP do you think i can get out of that. It will cost about $1300.
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10 horses if your lucky, just kiding. Not sure but JG should be able to tell you. I have just never been a fan of JG everytime I'd call to get a price quote they were always dicks on the phone. Tom at portflow is the man.
what i mean by "rough" is that you should not sand out the original casting texture of the ports. this just means that the ports can be opened up a little, and the runners must be sharpened. do not go to extremes and end up with a glass finish in the ports.
it is important to leave the surface a little bit bumpy in order for the air to pass over it and atomize with the fuel
I don't like the sound of that. The runners should be designed to create a swirl in the air that atomizes the fuel. The bumps shouldn't need to be there.
-Dustin
I don't like the sound of that. The runners should be designed to create a swirl in the air that atomizes the fuel. The bumps shouldn't need to be there.
-Dustin
anyways just to let you know (but some prob do) dpr is the orginal - pyr, erick's, portflow, l'natural etc. all worked at dpr at some time. i def don't reconmend anyone going at thier head w/ a dremel. the honda heads are designed to be very very effecient from the factory and can be easily ruined by v8 porting practices. just because dad did it on his car doesn't mean you should do it to yours. spend the money and do it right, the only way you'll know is the flowbench.
I thought I heard that JG has their head and throttle body work sourced out to Gude Performance. In my opinion, they are not who you want working on your car parts. I had two reground cams from them for a crx si, both with about 5k miles on them and you could see big black patches where dirt/grime collected from an uneven grind. Some of the black patches nearly covered the entire width of the cam lobes.
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xDicktonesx
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Jun 4, 2005 12:12 AM



