As the title says, im looking for some extended wheels studs however I just needed to know if there's anything special about them or can I just request some thread/nuts/bolts from my local "fixings" shop?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djnikko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As the title says, im looking for some extended wheels studs however I just needed to know if there's anything special about them or can I just request some thread/nuts/bolts from my local "fixings" shop?

Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
ARP, Skunk 2 Blox ll sell them, I doubt a nut and bolt shop would have an appropriate extended stud for a Honda. Plus extended studs are actually "harder" than OE studs.
Have a press and grinder handy when you get ready to install them

 

I wouldn't trust something so vital to my safety to a DIY mod.

 

yes theyre specially hardened and shaped/knurled for a press fit.

i wouldnt trust anything but OEM or ARP.

you can get 10mm longer studs OEM if you order rear TL and first gen integra studs.

or just get ARP for really long.


and to install the studs, you need to remove the hubs which requires a press. i dont like any of the ghetto methods of cutting things to make them fit.

 

YOu would need to Tac weld them too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Alchemist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOu would need to Tac weld them too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you do not tac weld them they are made to be pressed in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Golden Eagle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you do not tac weld them they are made to be pressed in </TD></TR></TABLE>X2

I too am very cautious about mods that could affect saftey, however i was able to diy my ARP extended studs without problem. All i did was disassemble the front knuckle, put the oem nuts on the lugs and beat them out. After that install arp lugs and torque them down w/o a wheel on. Done.

wow, my sentense structure is poor above!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">X2

I too am very cautious about mods that could affect saftey, however i was able to diy my ARP extended studs without problem. All i did was disassemble the front knuckle, put the oem nuts on the lugs and beat them out. After that install arp lugs and torque them down w/o a wheel on. Done.

wow, my sentense structure is poor above! </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i absolutely cannot recommend ever beating your hub with a hammer to get a stud out.

this is what happened to my rear wheel bearing after making this mistake.



there should be enough clearance in the rear hub to use a C-clamp to press the studs out. using a clamp or press will put the force where it needs. nor do i think its a good or clever idea to use the lugnuts to pull and press the new stud in place. overtorquing the lugnut basically causes the stud to stretch, too much and the stretch is no longer "elastic", and much weaker. not smart.

btw, to take the rear hubs out is relatively easy process compared to the front. you dont need a press. just remove the spindle cover, unstake the spindle nut (like the axle nut) and remove and slide the hub out. the outer race of the wheel bearing IS the rear hub, so its a single unit.

the biggest problem is that often times the inner race is stuck on the spindle. to remove this, brut force and good use of a dremel or angle grinder and chisel is necessary, before you can use a bearing removal tool.

the front hub you need to press out with a good hydraulic press.

 

ARP studs are easy to install.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chronicsinners &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All i did was disassemble the front knuckle, put the oem nuts on the lugs and beat them out. After that install arp lugs and torque them down w/o a wheel on. Done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">.
Have a press and grinder handy when you get ready to install them</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats the grinder for? in case you get bored?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats the grinder for? in case you get bored?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, my ARP's were not flat on one side so I had to gring it flat to keep it from scrubbing the hub while turning.

 

I have done the TL method and the ARP.
I recommend going with the ARP extended studs as they have a different knurled pattern than the TL. The TL studs have the same knurled pattern and slide in easily.
The ARP bite hard and seem to be holding up better.

Compare a stock one to the ARP you'll see what i mean.

 

i run the blox ones and have no problems

 

you can do them your self but i would recamond doing new wheel barings while you have it appart you will need some one to pres the new hub and bareing in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would recamond doing new wheel barings while you have it appart
</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2, but with proper grammar and spelling.


i hammered out my hub from the knuckle, replaced the studs.
then took my knuckle, hub, and wheel bearings to a machine shop. the removed the inner race from the old bearings (which will come off if you hammer the hub out yourself)... and had them install everything else.

cost like $15.

 

ok Im a noob when it comes to this but what does extended studs do?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupraRXZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok Im a noob when it comes to this but what does extended studs do?</TD></TR></TABLE>

extend the length of the studs.

i think youre asking "why"?

only reason is if youre using wheel spacers to make a lower offset or the wheel is not standard and needs more length. otherwise, its just bling.

 

well i have weld magnums and with the lugs i use u need them and for rules