I've got an 91 hatch with a gsr motor run by a chiped p28. the p28 doesnt support the dual runners on the gsr intake manifold, plus i dont have the unit which controls it.
so my questions is how to rig the secondaries on the gsr intake manifold up to function? I can see how it can be done but dont know about the correct/best parts to use. I need a rpm activated switch( msd has one I think a 6000 rpm), and that would activate some sort of valve to close off the vacum to the plunger on the secondaries, opening them like stock. this is what i cant figure out, what is this part i'm looking for? it needs to open and close some sort of valve(actuator?) with this rpm switch. I have asked around auto part stores and they cant come up with anything.
has anybody done this? any help is appreciated! thanks


Modified by grog at 6:59 PM 1/28/2007

 

just use the RPM activated switch to the bottom pin of the plug and ground the top pin

 

I don't have that vacuum controll deal to plug in. so i was hoping to find something else to substitute it. I cant find exactly what I need, theres so many valves and devices(on the net) i cant figure out what will do the job so maybe i'll just have to find the oem part.


Modified by grog at 9:13 PM 1/28/2007

 

why not just ditch the dual runners and get a blox/skunk manifold to save some headaches

 

The iab hardware can be added to a p28.

More info, http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ToP28

 

i'm still leaning towards rigging this up. I dont have tiny soldering tools or skills. thanks for the link above, it was informative, but vague. or maybe i just dont know curcuit board talk.
and I dont want a skunk 2.
I'm gonna keep on looking for an iab solenoid.

 

On my gsr motor i wired up one of the little dashpot thingies you know the ones that are on the firewall in stock efs? It takes a little trial and error but all those valves are is a vaccume switch, So just run a vac source to one side then see when you add power and a ground it will click then run the switched vacume port to the iab solenoids, Then i ran mine to a procomp shift light output so i could adjust when it opened... Still tho you should run it off p72 maps and the ecu switch so that the fuel maps match with the valves open.

You also have to make sure the you get the vac hose ran right, you dont want it doing the opposite of what they do from the factory

 

thanks. thats something i can find!
also I have a hondata s200, so i can adjust the engament point. the rpm switch comes with some adjustment also. I'll just need to sync them up.

 

thanks again 4thgenhtch, I stole one of those controll valves of my parts car. so simple to figure out, i'am stoked. I'am just waiting for some gaskets and a hondata heatsheild gasket while i'm at it.
maybe i'll do a writeup when i have this back together. I have removed the secondary peice(bad idea) thats why I'm waiting on gaskets.

 

No prob It worked great.. Even tho I was still running the crappy pr3 then... I also ran the factory Vaccume tank so you might wanna find somthing that will work...

 

**** all that stuff's been yanked.

 

Dude just make it easy and run a blox manifold... Boom Problem solved

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** all that stuff's been yanked. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I was just talking about # 7 the vaccume tank Or equivalent

 

I,ve tested it off the car and it works fine without a vaccum tank. what purpose does this tank serve? All i can think is it amplifies vacuum or just splits it.
anybody?

 

if you had an auto p28 it would be do able a lil soldering here and there, check out pgmfi.org lot off info on there

 

I believe hes already got the proper ecu w/ IAB support???
If not Check out http://www.pgmfi.org/twiki/bin...ToP28
I dont really know exactly the porpuse of the tank being in there possibly some storage so it still works at low rpm/vaccume?? I dono for sure

 

i tested it on the car with the switch and all, and the vaccum cuts out when i accelerate. i only tested it at idle before.
so im gonna find a vaccum tank.

 

I put the secondary "plate" back yesterday and the mid-range power is back to normal. its not even functioning properly but it seems to have the restored the correct flow. I also put a hondata heatsheild on. I'm still waiting for the vaccum tank from the dealer . the rpm switch is wired and working.

my friend had encourage me to take the secondary plate out, and i notice he's telling eveybody else with a GSR to do this also. it is pointless, it lags till 6000 rpm.

DON'T REMOVE YOUR SECONDARIES!

 

I just wanted to update this thread a bit.

the vacuum tank is needed to get proper vacuum at all rpms, I noticed it has very small opening on it (even smaller than the vacuum hose). I ran a vacuum hose into to car and connected it to the dual runners (while removed) to test it at all rpms.