Ok lately my Dad and I been reading old books on motor building go figure my dads been working with inline 6 dodge dart and dodge truck motor since he was 20 something now 63 turning 64 time to pass ont he knownledge which i should have learnt growing up with him. ever since my first r i bought hes been reading alot and reasearching alot on the type-r series prefferably civic r and integra r. We have came up with a destroke but high revving b18c. Just wondering from those high up there motor gurus that deal with b18c's day in and out.

Civic Type-R Crankshaft
Custom Rods

Would change the rod stroke ration. alot but would put less stress on the cylinder wall. which should lead to faster and less stressful motion of the piston. if we making a head to withstand 13k redline(if we wanted to go that high) would it widen the powerband alot or would i have to put alot of reasearch into the cam lobes for a custom setup like this. I have heard of IPS destrokeing a k20/k24 setup thats it Norris Insight for outstand redline ablities jsut curious does it work witht he b series.

Im open to rude and crude comments and moans and complants

thanks

 

that stuff doesn't even make sense to me.. ;T

all i know is that 1.the type r looks cool. 2. how to shift gears.

 

what sort of displacement would you be going to?


personally i think you would be better off putting your money and effort into making the existing B18 rev higher. decreasing the displacement would make driving anywhere off-track a real effort with the lack of torque.


tell us what you're trying to ultimately achieve with the engine, whether the car is going to be a DD, or a track *****...?

unless this is just an exercise in seeing what is possible?

 

It has been done before. I remember Lisa Kubo used to run a destroked B18C in the late 90's.

 

you do know thats been done before....by honda.

a b16b block has the same deckheight as a b18. so basically what youre doing is turning your b18c into a b16b. you would just need stock length b16b rods. and yes, you could rev high...but displacement>rpm anyday

 

its just a project engine to drop into a friends hatch i might be buying. im trying to get a 13k redline daily driver. not really looking for really track, auto-x, drag. Later on i might turbo the car which would increase the power but right now im working on the motor.

as of now i have a sleeved b18c 82MM bore
Thinking of getting civic r head and building on the stock cam shafts. port work im not really thinking about doing tell i have the engine tested.

Bradstard, you got any direct links about the destroke b18c?

 

What I would do is bore a B18C block out to 84.5 mm, then use a B17A crank, which has an 80.4 mm stroke, and have custom rods made. This will give you about 1826 cc displacement and a 1.77 rod ratio. Best of both worlds. You get the B18's displacement and the B16's rod ratio.

I believe Mike K built an engine like this a few years ago and had very nice results.

 

Do you have a link to his build or any other possible information on this kind of setup. the r/s ratio is really what i want to keep.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you do know thats been done before....by honda.

a b16b block has the same deckheight as a b18. so basically what youre doing is turning your b18c into a b16b. you would just need stock length b16b rods. and yes, you could rev high...but displacement&gt;rpm anyday</TD></TR></TABLE>

so if they b16b has same deck height as the b18. wouldnt stock b18 rods work with the b16 crank or the rod journals different sizes. trying to use most stock parts save me some money int he long run.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so if they b16b has same deck height as the b18. wouldnt stock b18 rods work with the b16 crank or the rod journals different sizes. trying to use most stock parts save me some money int he long run.</TD></TR></TABLE>

youve got it backwards. youll have to use ctr rods, ctr crank

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if they b16b has same deck height as the b18. wouldnt stock b18 rods work with the b16 crank or the rod journals different sizes. trying to use most stock parts save me some money int he long run.</TD></TR></TABLE>

a b16b is basically a b18c block with a 77.4mm b16 crank and longer length rods. b16b rods are 142.30mm. b18c's are 137.90mm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a link to his build or any other possible information on this kind of setup. the r/s ratio is really what i want to keep.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It might be archived somewhere on H-T. I remember he posted about it on the ITR forum, sometime around 2002 or so. I'd suggest PM'img him about it, as I don't remember what the title of the thread was.

As for other information, I'm not sure what you're looking for. It's not a common build, so there's probably not a lot of dyno charts out there for this setup. As for the rod ratio and displacement, that can be calculated by looking up the parts and doing the math. Essentially, you're taking 6.8 mm off the length of the stroke and adding 6.8 mm to the length of the rod, and the displacement is made up for by the larger bore. You'd have to figure out the desired CR for yourself, and I'd probably do that after having the head machined to work with the larger bore so I'd have an accurate combustion chamber volume to work with. Of course, not everybody has the head machined to match the bores, so you may not choose to take that step.

And you'll probably want to retain the 1.8 L displacement. Even souped-up B16s feel pretty anemic in the midrange.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It has been done before. I remember Lisa Kubo used to run a destroked B18C in the late 90's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, b18 with b16 stuff (crank, etc)..... I believe the old cars Kubo and Rado had run 8's with b16 stuff.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, b18 with b16 stuff (crank, etc)..... I believe the old cars Kubo and Rado had run 8's with b16 stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Boosted though? That makes a difference. You can sacrifice displacement with boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cltitus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im trying to get a 13k redline daily driver. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there an actual reason for this, or just so you can tell your buddies you rev to 13K? That seems kind of silly when even a 9000rpm redline/shiftpoint seems pretty darn high for daily driving.

 

its pretty much just a project for me to get my hands dirty on building motors. but lately i have been doing somethinking and thinking about building a 2.6L frank k with my dad. just more of a bonding build. you know those confidence booster things.

as for loosing displacement i would be boosting it later on before intinally dropping it in the car

 

Why not start off with something less experimental for a first build? If the experience of building your motor with your dad is the point of doing it, I think you'd have more fun going with a more conventional setup. You'll have fewer headaches, and with the kind of money you're talking about spending you could put together a pretty potent B-series.

 

im used to building inline 6 with rockers i have built one b18b when i was in high school with a friend but it blew away. would a h22 sh be a cheaper route i have seen complete engines for 1200?

 

Hell, what about some kind of crazy D-series? Your starting point could potentially be $0.

 

well as it comes to to a end of building a b/d/k looks like me and the old man decied to sell the del sol chassis and b18c1 thats with it. going to keep my b18c block though we are turning the 1968 inline 6 9mpg gas guzzzler to a dart sbc v8

No Longer ITR Related

Dart SBC - Little M
Dart SBC - Iron Eagle Platinum Heads
Dart SBC - Dual Plane IM
Dart SBC - Cast Aluminum Covers

When i get back ill be posting a link in my signature tothe building. im hoping to hit 450hp stock on 91 but 600 - 700 with NO2.


Thanks forthe info on the destroked b18c. maybe in the future after the rebuild