sohc ..
alright i have a d16z6 motor..i wanna keep my car sohc so can some one please give me some advice on the best all motor parts i could buy for it..cams..pistons..injectors ect...i already have intake header and exhaust..this is my daily driver ..but i would like to keep it that way but also to be decent so i can woop the daily ricer also...
ummm...where should i start...your not going to make much with a sohc and still retain "daily driver" but you can make it ok i guess...there are more than 1000 different possibilities you can go with
Modified by beaneg6 at 1:14 PM 1/23/2007
Modified by beaneg6 at 1:14 PM 1/23/2007
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaneg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ummm...where should i start...you not going to make much with a soch and still retain "daily driver" but you can make it ok i guess...</TD></TR></TABLE>
whats 'too much' in your opinion?
a engine thats at about 110hp and bumped upto 150/160hp with NA work is a big difference for a d-series SOHC and can still be streetable.
to thread starter...
I'm building a hybrid d-series for a friend of mine, here are some specs of what I am doing and what I'm aiming for:
-d16a6 block decked a few thou
-d16y8 pistons
-d16y8 head milled a few thou
-Compression Ratio around 11.3:1
-all new bearings/piston rings/arp head+rod bolts
-Exospeed Camshaft stage 2 or 3
-Crower Valvespring + retainers
-Blox OR Edelbrock(SP?) Intake manifold
-larger diameter throttle body
-4-2-1 headers
-j's intake
-2" or 2.25" exhaust
-tunned on Crome with chipped p28
-8lb flywheel with xtd clutch/pp
-factory si transmission
all this we are hoping at 150ish to the wheels with a good tuner.
There are many ways you can try to build a NA d-series but with the higher CR you will make more power.
I'm building this engine for my friend to have for daily driver duties and hit up the circuit or drag strip and put down some numbers for a d-series.
*if we achieve 150ish hp to the wheels, the car should run a mid 14 at the 1/4 with his hatchback as my completely stock b18b with I/H/E ran a 15.0 in my civic coupe. Good enough for a little sohc
Check out d-series.org , they are more about the d-series
whats 'too much' in your opinion?
a engine thats at about 110hp and bumped upto 150/160hp with NA work is a big difference for a d-series SOHC and can still be streetable.
to thread starter...
I'm building a hybrid d-series for a friend of mine, here are some specs of what I am doing and what I'm aiming for:
-d16a6 block decked a few thou
-d16y8 pistons
-d16y8 head milled a few thou
-Compression Ratio around 11.3:1
-all new bearings/piston rings/arp head+rod bolts
-Exospeed Camshaft stage 2 or 3
-Crower Valvespring + retainers
-Blox OR Edelbrock(SP?) Intake manifold
-larger diameter throttle body
-4-2-1 headers
-j's intake
-2" or 2.25" exhaust
-tunned on Crome with chipped p28
-8lb flywheel with xtd clutch/pp
-factory si transmission
all this we are hoping at 150ish to the wheels with a good tuner.
There are many ways you can try to build a NA d-series but with the higher CR you will make more power.
I'm building this engine for my friend to have for daily driver duties and hit up the circuit or drag strip and put down some numbers for a d-series.
*if we achieve 150ish hp to the wheels, the car should run a mid 14 at the 1/4 with his hatchback as my completely stock b18b with I/H/E ran a 15.0 in my civic coupe. Good enough for a little sohc
Check out d-series.org , they are more about the d-series
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr.RHTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
whats 'too much' in your opinion? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i said he was'nt going to make much as in much horsepower...
whats 'too much' in your opinion? </TD></TR></TABLE>
i said he was'nt going to make much as in much horsepower...
If you just want a peppy engine you can copy my build.
.020" over
Nippon Racing P28 pistons
Head mill/block deck to 9.5:1 compression
Comp Cams/Zex 59300 cam and valve train
AEM short ram intake
DC 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow OE cat
GReddy SP cat back
Power's in my signature. It isn't a lot but the curves are fat and it pulls pretty damn hard in my hatch.
.020" over
Nippon Racing P28 pistons
Head mill/block deck to 9.5:1 compression
Comp Cams/Zex 59300 cam and valve train
AEM short ram intake
DC 4-2-1 header
Magnaflow OE cat
GReddy SP cat back
Power's in my signature. It isn't a lot but the curves are fat and it pulls pretty damn hard in my hatch.
I didn't touch anything on the head casting other than the head gasket mating surface. And that was mostly for clean up purposes, same with the block. It cost me a total of $90 at the machine shop, including cleaning. I took them the bare block and the head without cam and they did the rest. If you need them to tear things down for you it'll cost a little more but not much. I'm putting down stock B16 numbers with a stock flowing Z6 head, for half the price. Well worth it in my opinion.
How much are you looking to spend? What kind of power would you like to get? What compression ratio are you aiming for?
How much are you looking to spend? What kind of power would you like to get? What compression ratio are you aiming for?
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Well, it cost me around $1500 for my engine with a full rebuild, using OEM Honda parts, on the block. What compression you use depends on what gas you want to use. Generally speaking, you don't really want to go much over 12:1 in a street car that runs on pump gas...if you're in Cali drop that down to 11.5:1. If you're wanting to do it on the cheap, milling the head for a slight bump is a great way to do it...or do both while you're at it. It only cost a few dollars more to turn a head resurface into a mill.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go f-series</TD></TR></TABLE>
he wants to keep his d16y8...
a single cam built is comparable to a stock b16 or a gsr...you can make the same power with a stock b series vs a built d series...
he wants to keep his d16y8...
a single cam built is comparable to a stock b16 or a gsr...you can make the same power with a stock b series vs a built d series...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beaneg6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he wants to keep his d16y8...</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, he said he wanted to stay sohc
no, he said he wanted to stay sohc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 305accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i mean i would really like to throw in a b16 but dont have the money for and havent found any deals on any..</TD></TR></TABLE>
but you have money to put pistons in your single cam? does'nt make sense, the price it will cost you for that is roughly 450 for pistons then another 500 or so for assembly! thats already 900 ONLY pistons! b16 swaps sell for roughly 2k. I dont see how you have money to build a sohc but not to buy a B!
but you have money to put pistons in your single cam? does'nt make sense, the price it will cost you for that is roughly 450 for pistons then another 500 or so for assembly! thats already 900 ONLY pistons! b16 swaps sell for roughly 2k. I dont see how you have money to build a sohc but not to buy a B!
You can get a set of Nippon Racing pistons with rings for $150-180 depending on who you buy them from. It'll cost about $40 at the machine shop to swap the new pistons onto the rods, about $200 for OEM Honda bearings and thrust washers, and several hours of research to put it back together.
Here's my price break down.
D16Z6 = $400 (block dissassembled with new pistons, rings, and a .020" overbore; head with Comp Cams springs and retainers)
OEM Honda rebuild parts = ~$600 (bearings, seals, gaskets, nuts, bolts, washers, water pump, plug wires, plugs, hoses, etc.)
Comp Cams 59300 = $180 shipped (bought new from someone who wanted a Crower S2 instead)
Skunk2 cam gear = $40 shipped (used, going to change because the degree marks are too hard to see)
Standard Flywheels 11.5lbs. flywheel = $150 shipped + $40 to balance
Exedy OE clutch = $80 (eBay)
Various machine work = $150 (head milling, block decking, cleaning for both, and pistons onto rods)
Total = $1640 with stock B16 wheel horsepower and wheel torque just a **** hair higher than the B16A makes at the crank.
Here's my price break down.
D16Z6 = $400 (block dissassembled with new pistons, rings, and a .020" overbore; head with Comp Cams springs and retainers)
OEM Honda rebuild parts = ~$600 (bearings, seals, gaskets, nuts, bolts, washers, water pump, plug wires, plugs, hoses, etc.)
Comp Cams 59300 = $180 shipped (bought new from someone who wanted a Crower S2 instead)
Skunk2 cam gear = $40 shipped (used, going to change because the degree marks are too hard to see)
Standard Flywheels 11.5lbs. flywheel = $150 shipped + $40 to balance
Exedy OE clutch = $80 (eBay)
Various machine work = $150 (head milling, block decking, cleaning for both, and pistons onto rods)
Total = $1640 with stock B16 wheel horsepower and wheel torque just a **** hair higher than the B16A makes at the crank.
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