I have a fully built LS block. Bored w/iron sleves, block guard, crower rods, je 8.5:1 pistons, arp head studs...the whole shabang.

Recently my motor overheated and I believe may have warped my stock LS head. I definately have a bad head gasket...coolant is overflowing from the coolant tank after driving hard, and I'm blowing a tiny bit of white smoke. I checked my oil and it looks great, like it just came out of the bottle so I'm good there. Like I said, it may just be a bad head gasket (about to blow), or the head could have warped a tiny tiny bit...who knows?

I have a stock LS head with JG 301 cams in it, but here is my question. If I'm going to get the stock head milled and valve job and all the happy ****, why shouldn't I just go with a VTEC head? My block should be great for this setup right? And with the Hondata 3b and map sensor I should be able to control the VTEC with the Hondata just fine. I will be running at 12-15 lbs of boost....NO MORE! I swear I will not boost more than 15 LBS. My goal was 15 lbs of boost and 300 HP to the wheels. Now I'm thinking... Turbo LS/VTEC 15lbs of boost could get me close to 400hp?????

What do you think?

 

Do it. A used B16 head will be cheaper than getting all that work done to your warped LS head anyway. Of course then you need a VTEC ECU... but still it should be a killer combo.

Edit - sorry didn't notice you already have hondata 3b in there...



[Modified by dbman96, 10:22 AM 5/16/2002]

 

Here's my other question. How am I going to know the used b16 head I get is not warped? I'll be paranoid (sp?) and get it milled too, but that will increase my compression ratio! ARGH!!!!

 

sleeved block with blockguard? or are you just proud that you have stock iron sleeves?

 

Make sure you get a p28/p72 if you want vtec control.

 

Yes it was bored and sleved. Then a STR blockguard was welded in place.

 

p28/p72 what? Sorry.

 

He means a VTEC model ECU for your Hondata conversion.

 

Hmm bored, then sleeved eh ? I don't understand why you'd want a blockguard with aftermarket sleeves.

 

Iron sleeves are so strong the block guard is really pointless. Its just keeping coolant from covering it all.

 

Hrmmmmm???? Did not know that. Well, with the LS/VTEC turbo...wouldn't it be a good idea to keep it in to make sure I don't get...oh what do they call it??? I was reading that the longer LS rods with the high reving VTEC head cause the cylindar walls to I think Wobble Placing a block guard in helps to prevent this.

So anyways, is everyone in agreement? I should go LS/VTEC

 

perhaps its one of those JG blocks? I have seen the "sleeved" JE blocks where they replace half the sleeve and then weld in an aluminum blockguard, then they deck the block.

I have never seen any of those blocks hold a head gasket, let alone the face that i have never seen any of those blocks work right, if at all. I believe that the welding in of the block guard is whats to blame for your coolant leaking, and the only solution is to get rid of the blcok and get another block with either golden eagle or darton sleeves.

This is not to be taken as a flame or anything, but that is my expereince i have had with welded in blockguards -- they make the motor worthless.

 

Crap. I'll be removing the head soon. I'll keep you all updated.