Hey everyone,

I was having what seemed to be ignitor (ICM) failure which I replaced with a new one from Acura. The car now drives a little smoother throughout the revs but the tachometer will no read past 5500/5600 rpms.

My set up:
2.0 B18B
gt35r
MSD blaster coil/ 6AL/ and cap
NGK 9 plugs

My tuner suggested changing out to the ngk copper heat range 8 plugs.

Which plugs (model #) should i get and what should they be gapped at?

---ALSO, do you think the spark plugs could be the culprit for my tachometer problem?

THANKS GUYS!

pic for good measure

 

NGK 4554??? R5671A-8 <-- NGK part number

what gap? Dont the come pre-gapped?

 

gap them .0018-.0022

 

Your plugs are not the tach problem...
What are your datalogs showing ?

Check the ground on your thermostat housing, also check your engine grounds.

 

car wont even run if that ground is bad.

what are you tuning with?

 

its on Chrome

 

can anyone specifically (pictures) show me which grounds to check?

any ideas?

 

MSD = problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by strictly.business &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">car wont even run if that ground is bad.

what are you tuning with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are wrong my friend :-)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfn15037 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">MSD = problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

+2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can anyone specifically (pictures) show me which grounds to check?

any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the wiring harness thermostat housing ground...

 

hmm really?


the only time ive ever had a problem getting spark was when that ground wasnt connected.

 

Some cars have weaker spark than others. I typically go for .018-.021". On some set-ups I've had to go down to .015".

 

the car runs fine its basically just the tachometer is not reading.

if grounds werent good, wouldnt that affect the car by how it runs??

 

if the grounds arent good, it would idle shitty, and havce weak spark/signal through the RPM's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some cars have weaker spark than others. I typically go for .018-.021". On some set-ups I've had to go down to .015".</TD></TR></TABLE>

oops that is what i ment to say. i said .0018-.0022 instead of .018-.022.

 

i think i am the king of misfire/dizzy issues!

like MTBR said check all the grounds first, if the look corroded, or crappy, just replace them anyway

also if your tach is not reading or jumps around in the high PRMs you still have a dizzy issue, i got tired of replacing parts and just bought a new one, i now keep a brand new gsr dizzy in a box in my store room just in case

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Integra21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey everyone,

I was having what seemed to be ignitor (ICM) failure which I replaced with a new one from Acura. The car now drives a little smoother throughout the revs but the tachometer will no read past 5500/5600 rpms.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive heard alot of people killing the icm due to the msd coil cooking them.

 

i JUST replaced it with a brand new one.

not for a second did it work with the new one either

 

get rid of the 6al and just use the coil from MSD. I personally am not fond of MSD coils either. I prefer Crane.

Good luck.

 

i have 700hp. i used NGK racing plug #10 but it's from 2JZ engine. go to NGK website and check it out. Plug is very different between honda and 2JZ. worker at NGK told me i need to use turbo spark plug and NGK never make turbo spark plug for honda.
you can e-mail them and ask for more information.

 

bump-

A few questions I am troubleshooting a spark/ fuel injector not firing problem
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2025870

Does the blue wire coming off the distributor go anywhere but the gauge cluster?

Also, I re-wired some of my engine harness. I was under the impression that all of the sensor grounds and shielding were attached to the thermostat housing. I have the thermostat housing go straight to the ECU ground, with the sensor grounds and shielding having continuity on the engine side of the harness, not the interior side. Should I just give ground to the thermostat housing and see if the car will run?