I dropped my 07 SI coupe off at a local stereo store. To get some Subwoofers and amp installed. They had to keep the car 2 extra days, and i got a call back saying that it wasnt done. They where having problems running the RCA's and POWER wires back to the trunk.

Said something about its almost impossible to run lines down the side rails in this car...

So.. now they are ran, and i have Engine wine noise coming out of my speakers....
Anyone have a problem like this with finding a good place to run the wires?

 

What you have is a ground loop and has nothing to do with the location of the RCA's or power wire. I'm pretty sure that they didn't sand the area where the grounded the amp. Remove the ground location, sand it, and reinstall the ground. I'm pretty sure it'll solve your problem.

 

yeah morelilky is that or try another ground point if the current one isnt working for you , but they arent soposed to give the car until they know everything is a ok , where did you do it ? whats your set up ^_^ pix plz

 

They said, all of the wires are running down the center of the car.... I will just leave it in the hands of the pros. My car was returned to me because the next full day spot in the shop is next Thursday, i didn't want to be without my car until then.

Kenwood touch Monitor
2 JL W6's
1800 kenwood sub amp
1200 kenwood mid amp
MB quart mids
Sirius radio


is what i was having installed. (all leftovers from my previous car)

 

who is installing them? have them seprate the rca and the power cables in diffrent directions left side and right side so that they dont interfear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who is installing them? have them seprate the rca and the power cables in diffrent directions left side and right side so that they dont interfear </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is the engine noise comin out of your subs or your door speakers? Do u have stock headunit? Did they use a hi-lo adapter for the rca"s? need more info, shouldnt be the wires being close to each other (unless they used super cheap ****) when i installed we ran rca's next to power all day and never had problems, we used tsunami sheilded rca's. it couild be the hi-lo adapter they used... they may need to ground it, could be ground from amp, how long is it? shouldnt be over 12 inches MAX! Let us know what you find out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMdecals &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They said, all of the wires are running down the center of the car.... I will just leave it in the hands of the pros. My car was returned to me because the next full day spot in the shop is next Thursday, i didn't want to be without my car until then.

Kenwood touch Monitor
2 JL W6's
1800 kenwood sub amp
1200 kenwood mid amp
MB quart mids
Sirius radio


is what i was having installed. (all leftovers from my previous car)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would probably consider getting a JL sub amp to match up with the JL W6 subs. The Kenwood amp you have is the model KEN KAC-9152D. It is rated at 1800W MAX, but only 900W RMS at 1-ohm. And these amps are notorious for overheating at 1ohm when played for a while. The W6 subs are Dual-4 0hm sub and if they are run at 1ohm then the Kenwood amp will probably not last you very long even though it is 1 ohm stable and at 4 ohm you won't be getting enough power output. The JL 500/1 and 1000/1 will put out the continuous power from 1.5-4 ohms and will be far less stressed than the Kenwood amp.

If you have two 10w6 subs you can go with the JL 500/1. If they are 12W6 subs i would go with a 1000/1. They're a little pricey, but well worth every penny when you spoon up the dough. Just a suggestion that might save you alot of trouble in the near future

 

Yeah I installed a 750-watt RMS Kicker Amp, and its powering a 12" square Kicker L& (750 watt RMS, 1500 watt max), and it is LOUD. I ran all my wires down the middle of the car, and no interferance at all. I actually think running wires down the sides would be stupid. There is a rubber plug right above the accelerator which is perfect for getting from the engine bay into the interior of the car. This sets you up for running the wires down the middle with ease.

As mentioned, you need a hi/lo converter. I used a Pac-10. If you want more info, head over to 8thcivic and check out the DIY for installing a sub/amp to a factory Head Unit. Its quite informative.

 

Don't get a hi/lo. Get a JL cleansweep. You'll be much happier. Alot more expensive but well worth it.

 

the clean sweep and the hi/lo converter are options to put an amp without removing the oem head unit?

 

Yes. And the cleansweep will give you much better sound quality and control than a standard hi/lo adaptor.

 

so to stand correctly the cleensweep/or hi /lo converter make it possible to install a aftermarket amp such as kicker is that correct? and

int it just better to buy an aftermarket stereo or in dash dvd lol cuz clean sweep cost that much

 

Read this first
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums...12231

Its the Do It Yourself for a sub install in an SI to a factory headunit, it'll teach you a lot.

Here's the LOC (line out converter hi/lo) that I used
http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-SNI-35...wItem

Price: 20 dollars, shipping included, straight to your door.

What Rico Suggested (the JL cleansweep)
http://search.ebay.com/search/...sweep

Price: At LEAST $200.

Not to belittle Rico's opinion, but thats a huge waste of money. I have the PAC-SNI-35 LOC installed in my car and the audio is as crisp as you can get without adding tweeters. No audio interference at all. I really actually have no idea why you would be getting any interference in the first place. I did it all myself and I had pretty much no clue what I was doing at first.

However, one thing that will annoy you are all of the rattle spots. I put dynamat all through the trunk and I still have a rattle coming from the stock sub. Its not that bad, but if the cleansweep gives you "much better sound quality", the rattle will be enough that the sound quality between a hi/lo converter or the cleansweep will be indistinguishable.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gus738 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so to stand correctly the cleensweep/or hi /lo converter make it possible to install a aftermarket amp such as kicker is that correct? and

int it just better to buy an aftermarket stereo or in dash dvd lol cuz clean sweep cost that much</TD></TR></TABLE>.

Yes....it would be better to install the aftermarket radio if you're planning on doing it anyway because you won't need the cleansweep or hi/lo in that case if the deck has the required number of preouts. A good average deck usually has about 3 preouts which is enough.

The price of the cleansweep would depend on where you're at i guess. But at the car audio place i used to work at they were $149 plus installation. And it usually depends on the car whether or not you should use the cleansweep or the hi/lo.

We were working on an Infinity G35 and trying to hook up the sub amp and an additional four channel amp to the stock head unit and it sounded like **** with the hi/lo. They fiddled with it for hours and couldn't figure out what was causing it. The hi/lo wasn't defective or anything, so finally they just slapped a cleansweep on there and it solved every single problem. Some vehicles will need it, others will not.

 

I have the oem navi which i am not giving up for subs so hopefully i dont need to do much to get a amp and a solo baric L7 running i will not be using the oem sub after connecting this prob changing the front and back 6 1/2's the stock tweeters are fine for now.

 

not to bash on you but oem navi or "premium" sound from factory always sucks , and everyone knows it but they still go ahead and order it lol , wild will since your keeping the stock oem HU you might as well do the hi/lo converter then if it doesnt sound clean for you then do the cleen sweep, for me i could care less about the dumb oem HU as i plan to put the pioneer avic-Z1 or a similr type of indash touch screen and it cost close to navi pakage IMO!!... but the only thing that is getting me held back is that i dont wanna loose the steering wheel funtion . i was told i can pre wire it and it fixes that issue and others told me about a device..... can i get any input from you guys?

 

Alpine, Pioneer, Eclipse, make steering wheel control integration adaptors specifically for their brand units only. PAC also makes a universal one, however i'm not sure if they have added the 06 civic to their units yet.