Fully built Ls/vtec motor 500whp, I have heard B series have problems with blcok/crank flex at HIGH hp, but have never seen any or heard of any problems firsthand.

I have no problem buying a 200$ girdle but more over have an issue with it requiring a Allign hone to make sure crank sits properly.
The motor is definatly going to see abuse, and will run 9 times outta ten on pump gas at much lower hp. (350ish)
let me kno what you think, or if its possible to get by without a allign hone after installation?

 

You should have one. You are going to need a gsr oil pan, oil pickup and main studs. The girdle sits on top of your stock mains so no real need for a line bore.

 

the girdle/ oil pan and pickup arent necessicary... either are the studs...

if you use the GSR girdle, there is a fair amount of machine work to get it to work on a LS block

IMO the solid girdle isnt really necessicary till you hit REALLY HIGH hp numbers...

i was talked out of it by a couple guys with 8 second race cars... so i didnt

 

I don't feel it's necessary. Especially if you say the motor is only going to be seeing 350whp the majority of the time.

 

go without, you will be fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fully built Ls/vtec motor 500whp, I have heard B series have problems with blcok/crank flex at HIGH hp,
</TD></TR></TABLE>


500whp isnt high hp.. stock block will take 500whp....

 

guys i couldnt thank ya more, you have been great help.
is there anyone with around 500whp ls/vtec b20/vtec running w/o a girdle?

 

I've been running with the girdle. I just kind of find it to be something that hasn't been proven/disproven.
I put one in. I figured that I'm running a crank (LS) not quite intended to rev up towards 9000 rpm. So, I put one in. It's piece of mind. Insurance if you will. No problems with the motor thus far. Two years on a fully built motor (one with the old eagle rods to boot).

People don't leave them out of GSR buils.. why not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys i couldnt thank ya more, you have been great help.
is there anyone with around 500whp ls/vtec b20/vtec running w/o a girdle?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, do a search.

 

block gridle is a must

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr HYDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">block gridle is a must </TD></TR></TABLE>

cant just say that, explain. have you always used one or is it another peace of mind kinda deal?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rondigs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
People don't leave them out of GSR buils.. why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they come stock

 

i will not be using a girdle, shooting for low to mid 400s on pump gas and perhaps 500+ on c12 i have lying around

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will not be using a girdle, shooting for low to mid 400s on pump gas and perhaps 500+ on c12 i have lying around</TD></TR></TABLE>

good to hear, expletive GIRDLES!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good to hear, expletive GIRDLES! </TD></TR></TABLE>

different strokes for different folks. im building a GSR for FI and i will be using a gt3076r w/ a .82. from what i have gathered a block girdle is just like extra insurance just like getting after market sleeves, maybe not to the same extent but you get my drift. the way i see it if you have spent this much money already building your dream setup is 200$ more going to kill you? just my .02.

 

I have never heard/seen any failures from not running a girdle. I personally run a b16 block, make over 500hp, and rev to 10k rpm without a girdle. IMO for 500hp I wouldnt think twice about not running one.

 

if you are gonna talk about assurance and are afraid of things going wrong, SLEEVE IT...

but no setup is safe, anything can happen to even the best of them.. no matter how causious you are, and what steps you take

 

http://www.erlperformance.com/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omiehomie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the way i see it if you have spent this much money already building your dream setup is 200$ more going to kill you? just my .02. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but the machine work involved is what Id rather not deal with.
reason i say this is motor is already together.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but no setup is safe, anything can happen to even the best of them..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
truth: but a good reputable tuner makes all the difference in the end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMB20TDA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
they come stock</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my point. Don't you think the engineers put it in there for a reason.

And if my understanding is correct, B16's and B18C's have a much better rod and stroke ratio in comparison to the B18A/B. Combine those two factors and...maybe that is why the OEM rev limit is set a little higher on the B16 and B18C.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rondigs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That was my point. Don't you think the engineers put it in there for a reason.

And if my understanding is correct, B16's and B18C's have a much better rod and stroke ratio in comparison to the B18A/B. Combine those two factors and...maybe that is why the OEM rev limit is set a little higher on the B16 and B18C. </TD></TR></TABLE>
tighter tollerances, oil passages, different oil pump, water pump... the list goes on there are a number of changes that allow the vtec engine to rev higher.

 

The other difference was the buyer market. Not many people purchased an LS and intended to beat the **** out of it auto-x'ing the first weekend they got it. You could get the same options with the LS as with the GSR - and a GSR w/b18b1 in the Special Edition version. Most people opted for the GSR because it offered the most power, and was designed for such.

The GSR was just over-built. The other point I stress is the big-end width of the rods. The B18a/b, b16's, and h22's are all the same, while the B18C1/5 are almost 10% narrower. In other words, they did what they could to optimise high-rpm opperation. In other words, overbuilt.

My suggestion is run it if you want to or can. But with most things that inspire confidence, you're more prone to abusing it too much.