ok im having a problem with this setup, as you saw in the subject post, i have
AEM ECU
F22B1 motor
a few minor mods I/E, 11lb fly (turbo ready and waiting for warmer weather)
but the problem is that before i get the turbo on there i want to fix the misfire(obviously)
so this is what ive done do far,
from the time i got the AEM iv had a minor misfire, completely random, any load any RPM.
so i tried taking the MSD off and running just stock distributor, replaced the wires, sparks, and just recently replaced the whole distrbutor, cap, and rotor. still doing it. when i did the cap rotor replace i upgraded to the MSD blaster coil and pro cap, which seems to have made it worse, now it misses randomly and then boggs really bad past 6000.
the only thing that i have found that makes a difference is when i put the stock ecu back in, all was well, but had a local tuner that is very well known take the AEM and try it in his wifes accord and he said it did not miss once the whole time.

so now im confused. any ideas?

thanks ahead of time

 

how do you know it is misfiring? are you registering timing errors? sync errors?

is start sync staying ON when the misfire occurs?

I have been battling misfires on my setup, but I have a built motor and it's boosted. I gave up and have a hall effect cam trigger setup on order, I couldn't get rid of my timing errors for the life of me.

This is a very common problem with the AEM box on hondas.

 

well i know because its a noticable loss in power and its realy quick. feels like a misfire.

and yes the sync is staying on that was the first thing my tuner told me to look at when i asked him about it. which is what made him say "i dont know" everything looks like its ok, as if the ECU just dozes off randomly and then picks back up like nothing happend. i also have problems starting it sometimes too where as when the stock is in there is starts up real quick. now i could put the stock back in there but i have the AEM wideband o2 and with the OEM ECU in there it throws a CEL for the o2 cuz of that. just frustrated at this point.

i have looked on the AEM Forums and ive seen alot of people that dont have hondas having the same problem too. so at least im not the only one. let me know how that hall effect works out for you, ive looked into it myself, just was looking for a cheaper resolution before i went that route.

any ideas that i can try that you did that might help me out, somthing that might work for me.
i really want to get this problem fixed its quite annoying as youve noticed yourself.

thanks again

 

ok so heres an update, put the old disitributor back on and now it runs properly again, stil have the random misfire but its not bogging anymore. so im gonna take that dist back and get my money back.

a friend of mine came up with the idea that i had looked into before but forgot about, but the crank position sensor, is located by the flywheel to count the ticks on the flywheel right?

if so would having an aftermarket flywheel on there be causing the random mis? from what my friend read there was somthing that was done to make the sensor pick up the ticks easier so the misfire could be fixed... is this somthing that you have looked in to at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaXiMuS1701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now i could put the stock back in there but i have the AEM wideband o2 and with the OEM ECU in there it throws a CEL for the o2 cuz of that. just frustrated at this point.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can just put your stock o2 back in. alternately does the AEM wideband have a simulated narrowband output? my techedge wbo2 does, that's how I fool my stock ecu when I have to pass inspection.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaXiMuS1701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so heres an update, put the old disitributor back on and now it runs properly again, stil have the random misfire but its not bogging anymore. </TD></TR></TABLE>
are you registering timing errors in the AEM box when the misfire occurs?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaXiMuS1701 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but the crank position sensor, is located by the flywheel to count the ticks on the flywheel right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
no, it is located under the crank pulley. there is a trigger on the timing belt pulley as well as staggered triggers on the balancer belt pulley. I would not expect your flywheel to have anything to do with it.

I have done the following to try to fix the problem:
- swapped three different distributors, one brand new OEM honda
- changed out both of the crank sensors
- swapped the <u>entire</u> engine wiring harness
- swapped the crank sensor pull down resistor inside the EMS itself, from 1k all the way to 4.7k

None of that has worked. I was considering buying a brand new 1050 box (I have a 1010 now) but who knows if that would work. The hall effect setup is cheaper and should provide much better idle and ECU triggering anyhow.

 

OH! I just remembered something that DID get rid of the misfires

go to setup--&gt; sensors --&gt; cam/crank --&gt; advanced cam/crank --&gt; advanced pickups

set crank H sense below = 6375
set crank L sense above = 6375


Unfortunately this caused my car to buck bad at 2k - 2.5k RPMs so it was unacceptable as a solution to me but maybe you won't have that issue.

 

ill give that a try and let you know, i havnt looked at the errors for the EMS in a while as ive kinda just been workin all the time so i dont really have the time to so alot of trouble shooting, but i have 2 days off soon that i can try some things with and ill see what i come up with,

one thing that i did notice between this dist and the other one that i just bought was that this one on the AEM starts really badly but once its up its fine, the "new" one started up more like when i had the OEM ecu in there, any ideas on that one? Maybe some sensor in the dist that is going bad that i can replace instead of the whole thing making it not run right.

Thank you again for your input

btw how much you payin for the hall and where you get it?


Modified by MaXiMuS1701 at 3:59 PM 1/20/2007

 

it's probably the igniter or TDC sensor in the dizzy. I tried replaing igniters to no avail also.

I'm getting the hall effect setup from tony1 on here:
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com

 

thanks again, all the info you have given me has been very useful. i have the day off tomm so i try out those settings, ill let you what happens.

 

ok so i checked everything today, and i am getting timing errors and they happen at the exact moment i get sync errors.

ill post a log later when i get back home to show you what im seeing...

bu tim almost positive that a hall effect will fix the problem... i went to that site you posted and im at a loss where to look to order one, or even get prices for one.

let me know if you can get me anything on the hall, deffinetly want to get this thing fixed asap.

 

IM tony1 on here for more info on the hall effect setup.

 

thanks