O2 sensor..will it work without cat
if i was to make a straight pipe all the way from my header to the back would i know i somehow need to drill new holes for the o2 sensors and will it work properly since i have no cat? or do i have to do something else?
So you're OBD2 and you have 2 sensors, one before and one after the cat. Yes, it will throw a code because of the 2nd sensor...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k_lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the help man...but how much do those simulators cost??and is there a site for them..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the Ziptech O2 simulator. Works wonders. Had it on the car for over 2 years, no CEL ever!
Cost me $50 back then. Probably find it for cheaper now.
It's an easy install if you're semi-skilled with a soldering iron.
I have the Ziptech O2 simulator. Works wonders. Had it on the car for over 2 years, no CEL ever!
Cost me $50 back then. Probably find it for cheaper now.It's an easy install if you're semi-skilled with a soldering iron.
you can also do the defouler trick. You take two sparker defoulers (non-foulers) sold at any auto parts stores. you drill the hole bigger on one so the o2 can fit through it moves it back from the exuahst like a spacer. and the second you leave how you bought it. SO you install them like O2 / drill nonfouler/ nonfouler/ test pipe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kulrevon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can also do the defouler trick. You take two sparker defoulers (non-foulers) sold at any auto parts stores. you drill the hole bigger on one so the o2 can fit through it moves it back from the exuahst like a spacer. and the second you leave how you bought it. SO you install them like O2 / drill nonfouler/ nonfouler/ test pipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like alot of work.
And is it even gauranteed to work?
Sounds like alot of work.
And is it even gauranteed to work?
ive heard about it, but i have yet to see one in person or in pics from a respectable source...not saying anyone would pull the wool over our eyes, but i want confirmed working order before i go sending more money on this already empty the pocketbook project.
is ziptech still in business? i looked up the casper one and nowhere on their site (via their search function) is there a o2 simulator
is ziptech still in business? i looked up the casper one and nowhere on their site (via their search function) is there a o2 simulator
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Finest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sounds like alot of work. And is it even gauranteed to work?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The nonfoulers are $4 and all you have to do is drill. thats alot of work?
Maybe I made it sound more complicated then it is.
http://www.amazon.com/Help-420...otive
I will try to find the post. But plenty of people have done this and mad it work. Everyone with an evo/wrx uses this trick when they get rid of their cats.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1841240
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madcatz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive heard about it and am still thinking that the 10k resistor trick is still the best work around....any input? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The resister trick will fix the heater portion of the o2 sensor. Like it wont throw an o2 heater code. But it won't fix the actual o2 part.
I know you guys question alot of people. But I have done the research and seen it work.
Modified by kulrevon at 4:50 PM 1/22/2007
Sounds like alot of work. And is it even gauranteed to work?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The nonfoulers are $4 and all you have to do is drill. thats alot of work?
Maybe I made it sound more complicated then it is.
http://www.amazon.com/Help-420...otive
I will try to find the post. But plenty of people have done this and mad it work. Everyone with an evo/wrx uses this trick when they get rid of their cats.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1841240
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madcatz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ive heard about it and am still thinking that the 10k resistor trick is still the best work around....any input? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The resister trick will fix the heater portion of the o2 sensor. Like it wont throw an o2 heater code. But it won't fix the actual o2 part.
I know you guys question alot of people. But I have done the research and seen it work.
Modified by kulrevon at 4:50 PM 1/22/2007
Impossible to find O2 sims now, unless used.
I had my O2 sensor sitting on the exhaust system heatshield and the CEL would come on and off... was strange... still pluged into the harness
I had my O2 sensor sitting on the exhaust system heatshield and the CEL would come on and off... was strange... still pluged into the harness
kulrevon I understand what your saying, as i have done this research too, but i have seen both sides of the fence with each description: anti fouler, simulators, 10k resistors, work arounds.
Im going to be running a test pipe with the Greddy Emanage so i wont need the second O2 since it just checks to make sure the cat is doing its job. I will have a Innovate LM-01 wideband in place connected to the Brockway R920 and the Emanage for inputs
Im going to be running a test pipe with the Greddy Emanage so i wont need the second O2 since it just checks to make sure the cat is doing its job. I will have a Innovate LM-01 wideband in place connected to the Brockway R920 and the Emanage for inputs
yea if you run 2 o2 sensors in the same pipe without a cat, the signals will register the same and you will throw a code. i bought a simulator for my 2000 civic on ebay, was like $10, spliced it into the 2ndary o2, and ran turbo with a "high flow
" cat and no CEL for 2 years now
go on ebay and search "o2 simulator"
" cat and no CEL for 2 years nowgo on ebay and search "o2 simulator"
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