what pistions and cams should i use in my LS vtec
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 138
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From: toronto, ontario, canada
hey guys iam currently building my ls vtec. iam building the engine to be reliable and daily driven.ive reached a crossroads as to know what pistions and cams iam going to run. dont know weather to choose aftermarket or oem pistion. as for cams, i want to keep a stock idle but still make power reliably. based on peoples experiance i whant to know what roote i should go to build a reliable lsvtec motor
Head:
b16a1 Fully ported with a 3 angle valve job and has been resurfaced
Golden Eagle vtec conversion Kit
ARP headstuds
ARP rod bolts
egale connecting rods
Honda Type R oil pump,water pump and timming belt
65mm throttle body aebs intake man cai and megan header 2.5 exauste
bottom end
b18b1 block
Arp mainstuds
ACL bearings, (rod bearings, main bearings and thrust washers)
iam going to blance and micropolish my crank
Head:
b16a1 Fully ported with a 3 angle valve job and has been resurfaced
Golden Eagle vtec conversion Kit
ARP headstuds
ARP rod bolts
egale connecting rods
Honda Type R oil pump,water pump and timming belt
65mm throttle body aebs intake man cai and megan header 2.5 exauste
bottom end
b18b1 block
Arp mainstuds
ACL bearings, (rod bearings, main bearings and thrust washers)
iam going to blance and micropolish my crank
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P30. now go away.</TD></TR></TABLE>
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan’s integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">p30 will oem pistions over heat because no oil spreyers in ls blocks, what a good cam </TD></TR></TABLE>
Explain to me how oil squirters injecting oil at the wrist pin would have any effect on combustion temperatures occurring on the crown of the piston? "melting" pistons are more an aftermath of pore tuning than anything else.
Explain to me how oil squirters injecting oil at the wrist pin would have any effect on combustion temperatures occurring on the crown of the piston? "melting" pistons are more an aftermath of pore tuning than anything else.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You guys weren't kidding about this being the "not turbo" forum. That's where I have spent the last year or so and this is WAY worse.
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You guys weren't kidding about this being the "not turbo" forum. That's where I have spent the last year or so and this is WAY worse.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jay_Sensing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You guys weren't kidding about this being the "not turbo" forum. That's where I have spent the last year or so and this is WAY worse.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just started buying turbo parts. i still stick around here because of the bullshit. its hilarious.
You guys weren't kidding about this being the "not turbo" forum. That's where I have spent the last year or so and this is WAY worse.
</TD></TR></TABLE>i just started buying turbo parts. i still stick around here because of the bullshit. its hilarious.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't feed em after midnight or get them wet!
expletive man. It's like these threads are replicating like gremlins.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Don't feed em after midnight or get them wet!
man for daily driver get u some jdm ITR pistons bored like .20 over so that u don't have any piston to cylinder wall clearance issues and lose compression....also get some skunk 2 stage 1 or ITR cams for daily aplication....don't do like everyone on here and over cam the **** outa ur car......
btw......GET SOME ARP ROD BOLTS.......don't be dumb....
btw......GET SOME ARP ROD BOLTS.......don't be dumb....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec-sleeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man for daily driver get u some jdm ITR pistons bored like .20 over so that u don't have any piston to cylinder wall clearance issues and lose compression </TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you break it down for us less enlightened folk? What is the benefit of JDM ITR pistons over USDM ITR pistons? Or P30's? Or PR3's? How should the block be prepped for these 0.20 bored pistons? What kind of piston to cylinder wall clearance is ideal? cylinder wall finish? Ring end gap? What about bearing clearances? And could you break down the ideal lift/duration for each level of compression? Inquiring minds want to know.
Could you break it down for us less enlightened folk? What is the benefit of JDM ITR pistons over USDM ITR pistons? Or P30's? Or PR3's? How should the block be prepped for these 0.20 bored pistons? What kind of piston to cylinder wall clearance is ideal? cylinder wall finish? Ring end gap? What about bearing clearances? And could you break down the ideal lift/duration for each level of compression? Inquiring minds want to know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtec-sleeper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man for daily driver get u some jdm ITR pistons bored like .20 over so that u don't have any piston to cylinder wall clearance issues and lose compression....also get some skunk 2 stage 1 or ITR cams for daily aplication....don't do like everyone on here and over cam the **** outa ur car......
btw......GET SOME ARP ROD BOLTS.......don't be dumb....</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy **** i grew up in tampa. this is personally emabarassing to read.
perfect example of someone trying to pass on second hand info as if it is something that they have foudn thru experience.
i read this with a hillbilly voice in my head. try it
btw......GET SOME ARP ROD BOLTS.......don't be dumb....</TD></TR></TABLE>
holy **** i grew up in tampa. this is personally emabarassing to read.
perfect example of someone trying to pass on second hand info as if it is something that they have foudn thru experience.
i read this with a hillbilly voice in my head. try it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan’s integra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">p30 will oem pistions over heat because no oil spreyers in ls blocks, what a good cam </TD></TR></TABLE>
the oem PR4 rods spray/squirt. I don't know if the eagle ones do.
The ITR pistons will require modding for the PR4 rod width, so stick with pr3/p30s. You can always get the skirts coated like the ITRs. Worth it? Some say yes, some say no.
I saw that you are already getting ARP rod bolts, but if you are getting aftermarket rods, usually they come with matching Rod Bolts (so yer not DUM like Tow Mater says)
The only time you have to worry about "overcamming" your motor is if your compression is too low or you are running a stock flowing head. Any one of the big lobe sticks will work.
What are you doing for engine management? One of the first things I got for my LS/V is a simple s100 chipped p28.
Check out Bambam's thread. Lots of good info there...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914
the oem PR4 rods spray/squirt. I don't know if the eagle ones do.
The ITR pistons will require modding for the PR4 rod width, so stick with pr3/p30s. You can always get the skirts coated like the ITRs. Worth it? Some say yes, some say no.
I saw that you are already getting ARP rod bolts, but if you are getting aftermarket rods, usually they come with matching Rod Bolts (so yer not DUM like Tow Mater says)
The only time you have to worry about "overcamming" your motor is if your compression is too low or you are running a stock flowing head. Any one of the big lobe sticks will work.
What are you doing for engine management? One of the first things I got for my LS/V is a simple s100 chipped p28.
Check out Bambam's thread. Lots of good info there...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xDEFTONESx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i just started buying turbo parts. i still stick around here because of the bullshit. its hilarious. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and your not helping. report them to me
i just started buying turbo parts. i still stick around here because of the bullshit. its hilarious. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and your not helping. report them to me
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