As posted in the TypeR forum:

Just thought I’d update everyone on my day…
Check here for complete history:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1772884
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1813588
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1856181

First I want to give a BIG thanks King Motorsports for providing me a great base map for the engine. You guys made my work so much easier today. I can’t wait to actually start driving the car and polish off the already great map.

The newly built engine was fired up today for the first time and seems to be in great shape. Here is a chronology of today’s events:

- crank the engine over for 30 seconds to get the oil pressure up.
- Install the spark plugs and fuel injectors.
- Fire her up and start the 2-3k RPM cam break-in period for about 20mins. While ensuring the A/F was safe. The engine smoked badly for about 10 minutes and then gradually got better. It was very cold today so condensation in the exhaust was expected.
- Discover a vacuum leak in the throttle body… after a few minutes we sort that out and start getting the idle dialed in.
- After another 20-30 minutes we’ve got the engine running smoothly at 950RPM.
- Spend another 10-15 minutes bringing the engine up to 3k RPM and down again to ensure good idle recovery and to continue the cam break in.
- Shut her down after a good 45-55 minutes of running.
- Do a compression test and check the plugs. Results: 283,283,283,280psi. The plugs had black carbon build up on the ceramic shaft and some oil residue on the threads. I attribute the oil to the small amount of oil that I installed in the cylinders a couple months ago when the build was completed. The oil was added to keep the walls lubricated while I waited to fire it up.
- Changed the oil and now wait to do an initial street tune.

Overall I’m very pleased with the condition of the engine. The compression numbers look very good and suggest that the rings might already be well sealed. I’ll continue with good compression breaking during the street tune but I think I’m off to a good start. Unfortunately I’ll now have to wait until the warmer weather before I go further…

Here is a close up of the cam follower after my initial break-in


and another engine bay shot without the valve cover off


Doug

 

Setup looks wonderful, and those compression numbers right off the bat are even better!

Let us know how she runs.



Also, before I forget, you don't think the Spoon header will cause any power production issues? I assume the collector is 2.5", but how long are the primaries?

- Derek

 

Congrats....great build

 

the initial break in was fine with these compression number

 

Sounds like you are doing it right. Nice job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Rob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, before I forget, you don't think the Spoon header will cause any power production issues? I assume the collector is 2.5", but how long are the primaries?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure of the full specs on the Spoon header however it's likely going to be replaced by an SMSP header in the spring.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DonF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sounds like you are doing it right. Nice job.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks!

Quick question... this is my first "race" engine build and only have experience with fairly stock engines up to this point.

Is it normal to have much higher valve train noise even after the engine has warmed up? I know that the Pro1 cams increase overall idle noise, and the Wiseco pistons also may add to the overall noise, but there does appear to be higher valve noise. I'm confident that the valve lash has been set correctly by my builder, as I watched him do it.

I can live with all the added noise and such if it’s normal for an engine with this parts list.

 

Yeah it will probally be lounder. Especially if you have an agressive cam. Your gonna blow out your LMAs eventually and then it will really tick loud. The LMAs are only there to quite down the head so dont worry about replacing them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The LMAs are only there to quiet down the head so don't worry about replacing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What? Please explain. Lost Motion Assemblies are just there to quiet down the head? So if I remove them everything will be o.k., but just a little noisy?

 

I got to give it to you.....clean build.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it normal to have much higher valve train noise even after the engine has warmed up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have noticed louder than stock valve train noise with most of the cams that I have run-Toda C's and D's, Skunk Pro 2's and Pro 1's. I tried tighter than stock lash and it made little difference. So it has been my experience that bigger cams make more noise and it is normal. Nice build, BTW

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Quick question... this is my first "race" engine build and only have experience with fairly stock engines up to this point.

Is it normal to have much higher valve train noise even after the engine has warmed up? I know that the Pro1 cams increase overall idle noise, and the Wiseco pistons also may add to the overall noise, but there does appear to be higher valve noise. I'm confident that the valve lash has been set correctly by my builder, as I watched him do it.

I can live with all the added noise and such if it’s normal for an engine with this parts list.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You should hear my LSVTEC with Pro2+'s!

I thought there was something wrong for the longest time.

I even tightened up the lash by .001 on each side one night. I ended up having to keep my foot on the throttle to keep it running!

So I live with the noise.

People always ask if there is something wrong, and I'm like, "Uhhhh, yeah dude! I have no idea why it sounds like that!"

- Derek

 

Thanks for the feedback guys

I figured everything was normal but it caught me a little by surprise when I was listening to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BABY NSX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here is a close up of the cam follower after my initial break-in


and another engine bay shot without the valve cover off


Doug</TD></TR></TABLE>

That **** is clean as hell...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smileycvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah it will probally be lounder. Especially if you have an agressive cam. Your gonna blow out your LMAs eventually and then it will really tick loud. The LMAs are only there to quite down the head so dont worry about replacing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you talking about? The LMA's actually serve a function!

Baby NSX, everything looks good

 

Gord Bush built my 2.0lt and is still running strong, making 227whp-169tq. i wouldnt go anywhere else for an engine builder here in Toronto, Sam

 

Very nice and clean build

What piston to cylinder wall clearance are you running these Wiseco piston? 0.003"?

And is this the K566M815 part number Wiseco?

Thanks.. Can't wait till you run them in and dyno tune them..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chris2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice and clean build

What piston to cylinder wall clearance are you running these Wiseco piston? 0.003"?

And is this the K566M815 part number Wiseco?

Thanks.. Can't wait till you run them in and dyno tune them.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes those are the parts I'm running. I'm not sure what clearances Gord used.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What? Please explain. Lost Motion Assemblies are just there to quiet down the head? So if I remove them everything will be o.k., but just a little noisy? </TD></TR></TABLE>

No dont actually remove the LMA that would be bad.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Teggie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What are you talking about? The LMA's actually serve a function!

Baby NSX, everything looks good </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes they do serve a function. They keep the secondary rocker (vtec) from bouncing all around when your not in vtec. If you were to remove the LMA the rocker would probaly bounce up hit your cam and break it. However if your break/ overcompress the spring in your LMA then that secondary rocker will bounce around more and make more noise. Other than that the LMAs dont do ****. Replacing them probally wont help either because the new ones will just get compressed and eventually blow out too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have noticed louder than stock valve train noise with most of the cams that I have run-Toda C's and D's, Skunk Pro 2's and Pro 1's. I tried tighter than stock lash and it made little difference. So it has been my experience that bigger cams make more noise and it is normal. Nice build, BTW </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the closing ramp is so quick it's the vavle actually smacking the seat when it closes , no3w combine that with 50-80+lbs seat pressure and you get where I'm going with this...Err thats what I think..lol

Nice build I do remeber way back before Smsp or Rmf and Hytec were making stuff for us honda's on street apps. Spoon was king header and just beat out the Mugen stuff..