I found a optima yellowtop that is supposedly the strongest one they make. Its rated at Cranking Amps (SAE): 1125, Cold Cranking Amps (SAE): 900. That is a pretty big jump from the crappy die hard battery I have in my 95' Accord now. Can anything bad happen from using a battery this big or is bigger always better? I'm getting a high output alternator (150amps) soon and I have about a 1200W stereo. will this work good for me or should I get something else?

 

no, you will be fine with that battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, you will be fine with that battery.</TD></TR></TABLE> Ditto that. 94

 

I will semi-hijack this thread...........what determines whether you need a new battery vs. HO alternator upgrade with your stereo system? I am not planning on running my stereo with the car off really at all. But my system is pretty high power (its in my signature). Will I be ok with stock battery and alternator? I can't seem to get a straight answer. thanks

 

If your system draws more current than the stock alternator puts out, then you need a HO alt. If you would be running the system with the car off (which you are not), then you would need a high capacity battery.

 

thanks for the reply. So, what you are saying is that I can't install this gear that I have without upgrading my alternator first? How much is that, and where can I get one/get it done?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzag11 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, what you are saying is that I can't install this gear that I have without upgrading my alternator first?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not say that. Go ahead and install it. It will work too. But when you turn it up to a point where it needs more current than the alternator provides, your lights will start dimming. Run it like that long enough and you will fry the alternator.

 

would a cap for the sub help? Or would it just be a temporay fix? I know a cap compensates for momentary drops in power.....but I should probably still look into an alternator upgrade right?

 

Don't even waste your money on a cap. At full output, your system will draw more current than the alternator can provide, and the cap will not help at all. So save your money and go with a HO alt.

 

appreciate the info. now, I have also been asking people where to get a HO alternator for an 06 Civic Si, and no one has been able to tell me where to look....let alone give a link to an actual product. any ideas?

PS&gt; will installing a HO alt. void my warranty?

&lt;edit&gt; : Would something like this work, or do i need a make/model specific one?
http://www.performancecenter.c...ame=0


Modified by redzag11 at 3:18 PM 1/15/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22CD7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm getting a high output alternator (150amps) soon and I have about a 1200W stereo. will this work good for me or should I get something else?</TD></TR></TABLE>

H22CD7.....I am in Spokane also. Where are you getting your HO alternator? Also manufacturer/part name and number for it? I am installing a 1500W stereo system here soon, and am looking into an alt. upgrade. Thanks.

 

I am not that familiar BA amps, but if that is the total RMS power, [1340W] then it is going to take about 175A of current to do that, plus your car will need a max of around 75A. so ideally you would find yourself a 200A alt., I would also upgrade the batt. at that point, even if your not going to be playing the system with the motor off, you will wish you did the day you do play the system without motor running, a 175A load will suck the juice out of a batt. in no time.

With the above said, you must keep in mind music is dynamic, the amps are not drawing 175A all the time, not even when cranked to the pin, the only time they will draw all 175A is at the point that both amps produce their rated RMS output, [1340W].
The average draw is probably more like 50% of that, about 85A, and only if cranked to the pin, even less at normal listening levels.

So the question is what will be your normal listening level?

As for the cap, that depends on the above. if you install a 200A alt. I see no need for a cap.
BTW, " I know a cap compensates for momentary drops in power" that's not what the cap is for, it is there to "compensate" for momentary demands for power.

There is a raging debate. here at H/T about caps, my 30+ years of experience as a car audio installer is on the yes side of that debate, if used properly they are an effective "tool" for a particular job, [supplying, short duration, needed current to a dynamic load at it's peak demand].
Some call caps, "band-aids" and in a way they are, but a band-aid can be a useful thing.
You must also remember a cap is also just another load, kind of like a batt. it must be charged, [kept charged]. 94

 

Great info. Thank you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the question is what will be your normal listening level?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would say medium....with the occasional push. I am not planning on competing or anything. I ordered all of this high power equipment because of a deal I get through my work. My main concern is to not kill my stock alternator or damage any of the electronic devices that "run" my car. If you would suggest putting in an upgraded HO alt. I will probably do that.

And yes, I think that those power ratings are RMS for the amps. Now, I want to make sure I am understanding this correctly. Would you recommend a cap whether or not I upgrade my alt.? And would you recommend i even attempt to run all this gear without first getting a HO alt.?

Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H22CD7.....I am in Spokane also. Where are you getting your HO alternator? Also manufacturer/part name and number for it? I am installing a 1500W stereo system here soon, and am looking into an alt. upgrade. Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I ordered it from this place. 250$ for the one for my H22 with a lifetime warranty.


http://4alterstartcom.verizons...ators

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wrx-killer-Sti eater &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, you will be fine with that battery. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How about a battery rated at AMPS 2250, CA 1500, will I still be good with that or is that too much? I found these batteries made by a brand called kinetek that are freaking huge compared to optimas and they are priced about the same. I'm basically just wondering if there is such a thing as too much power or is it okay to go with whatever the biggest one I can fit in the stock location?

 

It will be fine.

 

I always recommend an upgraded alt. when total RMS wattage exceeds 1000W "so ideally you would find yourself a 200A alt." and if not, definitely a cap, even if you get the HO alt. a cap can't hurt, but it is not needed, "if you install a 200A alt. I see no need for a cap." 94