Torch lit on new engine!
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
Just thought I’d update everyone on my day…
Check here for complete history:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1772884
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1813588
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1856181
First I want to give a BIG thanks King Motorsports for providing me a great base map for the engine. You guys made my work so much easier today. I can’t wait to actually start driving the car and polish off the already great map.
The newly built engine was fired up today for the first time and seems to be in great shape. Here is a chronology of today’s events:
- crank the engine over for 30 seconds to get the oil pressure up.
- Install the spark plugs and fuel injectors.
- Fire her up and start the 2-3k RPM cam break-in period for about 20mins. While ensuring the A/F was safe. The engine smoked badly for about 10 minutes and then gradually got better. It was very cold today so condensation in the exhaust was expected.
- Discover a vacuum leak in the throttle body… after a few minutes we sort that out and start getting the idle dialed in.
- After another 20-30 minutes we’ve got the engine running smoothly at 950RPM.
- Spend another 10-15 minutes bringing the engine up to 3k RPM and down again to ensure good idle recovery and to continue the cam break in.
- Shut her down after a good 45-55 minutes of running.
- Do a compression test and check the plugs. Results: 283,283,283,280psi. The plugs had black carbon build up on the ceramic shaft and some oil residue on the threads. I attribute the oil to the small amount of oil that I installed in the cylinders a couple months ago when the build was completed. The oil was added to keep the walls lubricated while I waited to fire it up.
- Changed the oil and now wait to do an initial street tune.
Overall I’m very pleased with the condition of the engine. The compression numbers look very good and suggest that the rings might already be well sealed. I’ll continue with good compression breaking during the street tune but I think I’m off to a good start. Unfortunately I’ll now have to wait until the warmer weather before I go further…
Doug
Check here for complete history:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1772884
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1813588
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1856181
First I want to give a BIG thanks King Motorsports for providing me a great base map for the engine. You guys made my work so much easier today. I can’t wait to actually start driving the car and polish off the already great map.
The newly built engine was fired up today for the first time and seems to be in great shape. Here is a chronology of today’s events:
- crank the engine over for 30 seconds to get the oil pressure up.
- Install the spark plugs and fuel injectors.
- Fire her up and start the 2-3k RPM cam break-in period for about 20mins. While ensuring the A/F was safe. The engine smoked badly for about 10 minutes and then gradually got better. It was very cold today so condensation in the exhaust was expected.
- Discover a vacuum leak in the throttle body… after a few minutes we sort that out and start getting the idle dialed in.
- After another 20-30 minutes we’ve got the engine running smoothly at 950RPM.
- Spend another 10-15 minutes bringing the engine up to 3k RPM and down again to ensure good idle recovery and to continue the cam break in.
- Shut her down after a good 45-55 minutes of running.
- Do a compression test and check the plugs. Results: 283,283,283,280psi. The plugs had black carbon build up on the ceramic shaft and some oil residue on the threads. I attribute the oil to the small amount of oil that I installed in the cylinders a couple months ago when the build was completed. The oil was added to keep the walls lubricated while I waited to fire it up.
- Changed the oil and now wait to do an initial street tune.
Overall I’m very pleased with the condition of the engine. The compression numbers look very good and suggest that the rings might already be well sealed. I’ll continue with good compression breaking during the street tune but I think I’m off to a good start. Unfortunately I’ll now have to wait until the warmer weather before I go further…
Doug
Doug that rocks. My break in mileage intervals are as follows:
1) 3000RPM break in
2) 50 miles
3) 100 miles
4) 250 miles
5) 500 miles
6) 1000 miles
7) Then you can follow your traditional intervals. To date, not a sign of oil burnage!
1) 3000RPM break in
2) 50 miles
3) 100 miles
4) 250 miles
5) 500 miles
6) 1000 miles
7) Then you can follow your traditional intervals. To date, not a sign of oil burnage!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
Thanks guys!! I'm very pleased right now 
I was actually caught completely off guard by the compression numbers. My gauge ends at 300 and my previous stock engine last measured 180psi. It startled me to see the first piston hit 283, based on that measurement alone it appears the calculated 11.8 compression ratio is fairly accurate.

I was actually caught completely off guard by the compression numbers. My gauge ends at 300 and my previous stock engine last measured 180psi. It startled me to see the first piston hit 283, based on that measurement alone it appears the calculated 11.8 compression ratio is fairly accurate.
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wildoutwhitegsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good stuff. Now we have to finish tuning it once it gets on the road.
Post up the pic Doug.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks again Trenell for your help today! You definitly made me feel alot more comfortable about everything... Thanks go to Bryan, Paul, and Mike as well!
Here are a couple pics:
Here is a close up of the cam follower after my initial break-in

and another engine bay shot without the valve cover off

Modified by BABY NSX at 1:15 AM 1/14/2007
Post up the pic Doug.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks again Trenell for your help today! You definitly made me feel alot more comfortable about everything... Thanks go to Bryan, Paul, and Mike as well!
Here are a couple pics:
Here is a close up of the cam follower after my initial break-in

and another engine bay shot without the valve cover off

Modified by BABY NSX at 1:15 AM 1/14/2007
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2000
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From: Crazy Canuck, Everywhere
Thanks everyone! It’s a big relief getting over this hump...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what valve clearance did you use with the pro1's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
.007" intake (cold)
.008" exhaust (cold)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LunchboxZT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What Engine Mounts did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mugen engine mounts from King Motorsports
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to need your help for my rebuild </TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem... just let me know when
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by an2ny888 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what valve clearance did you use with the pro1's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
.007" intake (cold)
.008" exhaust (cold)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LunchboxZT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What Engine Mounts did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mugen engine mounts from King Motorsports
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am going to need your help for my rebuild </TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem... just let me know when
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