***brake problem on ef! HELP!***
<U>ok so heres the run down:::</U>
the car is a 1990 civic wagon btw**
*i changed the pads up front
*flushed out all old brake fluid
*put in new brake fluid
*bled brakes x10 times now
<U>pedal still goes to the floor with ease, and brakes are not stopping the car!</U>
so now im guessing it is the brake booster or master cylinder??? any advice or similar situations?
any help is much appreciated
the car is a 1990 civic wagon btw**
*i changed the pads up front
*flushed out all old brake fluid
*put in new brake fluid
*bled brakes x10 times now
<U>pedal still goes to the floor with ease, and brakes are not stopping the car!</U>
so now im guessing it is the brake booster or master cylinder??? any advice or similar situations?
any help is much appreciated
yeah could be the master cylinder or you just gotta keep bleeding the brakes, i have/had the same problem
if you pump it up really good when the car is off and it gets really firm the master cylinder should be good
theres a check of the brake booster in the manual if you've got that to check and see if that is good.
if you pump it up really good when the car is off and it gets really firm the master cylinder should be good
theres a check of the brake booster in the manual if you've got that to check and see if that is good.
I had the same problem before. I never really addressed more than bleeding the brakes. I swapped the rear to disc during the summer and the problem went away. Now I'm not saying go do the conversion, but to do the conversion, I had to replace the rear soft lines. Maybe your lines need to be replaced?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF JUNKIE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your calipers could be frozen
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think so? everything was good before pads were changed and fluid was flushed
</TD></TR></TABLE>
think so? everything was good before pads were changed and fluid was flushed
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAGOM4N »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">changing the booster today
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I doubt that will help. The point of the booster is to make the pedal easier to push. If it goes bad, your pedal will get very hard to push, it won't fall to the floor.
My guess is, it's either the master or you have fluid leaking from somewhere. Either that or you somehow still have air in the system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I doubt that will help. The point of the booster is to make the pedal easier to push. If it goes bad, your pedal will get very hard to push, it won't fall to the floor.
My guess is, it's either the master or you have fluid leaking from somewhere. Either that or you somehow still have air in the system.
It more than likely is the MC.
It went bad b/c you bled your brakes.
The piston and cup have worn a groove in the MC from normal travel, but when you bled them the piston traveled outside it's normal range and damaged the rubber cup on the piston when it hit the ridge left from the piston cup. It's kind of hard for me to word it but I had this happen before and then I saw a write up on it and it sounded about right.
DON'T change the brake booster unless you want to spen a day adjusting it.
ALSO, when you change out the MC, make sure you bench bleed it properly.
It went bad b/c you bled your brakes.
The piston and cup have worn a groove in the MC from normal travel, but when you bled them the piston traveled outside it's normal range and damaged the rubber cup on the piston when it hit the ridge left from the piston cup. It's kind of hard for me to word it but I had this happen before and then I saw a write up on it and it sounded about right.
DON'T change the brake booster unless you want to spen a day adjusting it.
ALSO, when you change out the MC, make sure you bench bleed it properly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speed--Freak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It more than likely is the MC.
It went bad b/c you bled your brakes.
The piston and cup have worn a groove in the MC from normal travel, but when you bled them the piston traveled outside it's normal range and damaged the rubber cup on the piston when it hit the ridge left from the piston cup. It's kind of hard for me to word it but I had this happen before and then I saw a write up on it and it sounded about right.
DON'T change the brake booster unless you want to spen a day adjusting it.
ALSO, when you change out the MC, make sure you bench bleed it properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
master cylinder in the works! haha i hope this is it!!!! :cross fingers:
Modified by WAGOM4N at 10:52 PM 1/16/2007
It went bad b/c you bled your brakes.
The piston and cup have worn a groove in the MC from normal travel, but when you bled them the piston traveled outside it's normal range and damaged the rubber cup on the piston when it hit the ridge left from the piston cup. It's kind of hard for me to word it but I had this happen before and then I saw a write up on it and it sounded about right.
DON'T change the brake booster unless you want to spen a day adjusting it.
ALSO, when you change out the MC, make sure you bench bleed it properly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
master cylinder in the works! haha i hope this is it!!!! :cross fingers:
Modified by WAGOM4N at 10:52 PM 1/16/2007
MC most likely is the problem. if you push the pistons back in the calipers with out cracking the bleener valves on the caliper it forces fluid backward through the master and can cause it to blow out the seals too.
i've never heard the other explanation said above but seems valid also.
i've never heard the other explanation said above but seems valid also.
When you bled the brakes did you see air? Is there any fluid near the MC that is leaking? Especially at the seals...
I think the above comments are right on the ball, the booster has nothing to do with your problem. The only thing that might have fixed it for the other guy it philly is maybe he had a bad seal going into the booster. You got lucky on that one...
I think the above comments are right on the ball, the booster has nothing to do with your problem. The only thing that might have fixed it for the other guy it philly is maybe he had a bad seal going into the booster. You got lucky on that one...
ok so update!!!!!
---->> changed out master culinder, and YEPPP brakes worked perfect! better than ever actually! BUTTT...
>>>>i took the wagon out for a quick spin a little bit later, and it felt as if when driving, the brakes were being applied! <<<<
i need help ef gurus!!!!!!!
thnx for all help so far everybody!!
---->> changed out master culinder, and YEPPP brakes worked perfect! better than ever actually! BUTTT...
>>>>i took the wagon out for a quick spin a little bit later, and it felt as if when driving, the brakes were being applied! <<<<
i need help ef gurus!!!!!!!
thnx for all help so far everybody!!
Ok, the problem you are having now is the booster. When you changed it you just swaped out the part right? Well when ever you change it, you have to adjust it. It is a pain and if you still have the old booster you can use it but if you want to use the new one you will need a bench grinder and a hack saw to modify a couple wrenches. There is a great write up somewhere that I followed when I did my buddies car and it worked out perfect.
I have to work tonight but let me see if I can find it for you. Just don't drive your car because your brakes will seize on you.
I'll report back later.
I have to work tonight but let me see if I can find it for you. Just don't drive your car because your brakes will seize on you.
I'll report back later.
Ok here is the write up with pictures.
I did this to the letter and it worked out great.
Just take your time.
Good luck
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html
I did this to the letter and it worked out great.
Just take your time.
Good luck

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq....html
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