Like the post asks, what motor setup with the least amount of mods will get a street tire 12.8-13.2. My crx has a burned up ls/vtec and I wanted to replace it with a good starting point to see 12 ish type numbers. I was looking at a jdm b18c swap. I don't want to go ls/vtec again and I dont want a hole in my hood (k20), or h series. Tell me what you think.

 

bone stock ls2 should do the job

 

ls2?

 

who told you that there would need to be a hole in your hood for a k20? there are ways around that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanplayjoint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Like the post asks, what motor setup with the least amount of mods will get a street tire 12.8-13.2. My crx has a burned up ls/vtec and I wanted to replace it with a good starting point to see 12 ish type numbers. I was looking at a jdm b18c swap. I don't want to go ls/vtec again and I dont want a hole in my hood (k20), or h series. Tell me what you think.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 200 whp lsvtec or gsr motor could have you break 12's on BFG's. It wasn't too hard for me.

 

I was looking @ the GSR setup its alot cheaper than the jdm type r. Do you think the gsr could do it on stock intake/exhaust ports. I don't think there is a machinist in MA that I could trust w/ a port job on the cylinder head. i'm really serious about representing a all motor honda in these parts. People just write all the H & A badges off around here.

As far a the k20 swap I haven't seen one on a stock hood in a EF yet. The crx I have now is already swapped with B vtec it would be more cost effective to stay B. Though I did buy a 02 si so I can work on my crx and not have to rush to drive it home. I was thinking about swapping the 02 si for a type s then swap in the si into the crx, but the list of swap parts costs almost as much as a type r swap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanplayjoint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was looking @ the GSR setup its alot cheaper than the jdm type r. Do you think the gsr could do it on stock intake/exhaust ports. I don't think there is a machinist in MA that I could trust w/ a port job on the cylinder head. i'm really serious about representing a all motor honda in these parts. People just write all the H & A badges off around here.

As far a the k20 swap I haven't seen one on a stock hood in a EF yet. The crx I have now is already swapped with B vtec it would be more cost effective to stay B. Though I did buy a 02 si so I can work on my crx and not have to rush to drive it home. I was thinking about swapping the 02 si for a type s then swap in the si into the crx, but the list of swap parts costs almost as much as a type r swap.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The GSR bottom end is nearly identical to the ITR bottom end minus the pistons. As for the head, the GSR head is a superior design, although you'd probably make a bit more hp with a STOCK itr head.
The GSR motor is an awesome platform to start with. But, if you want to make power with a B motor, you're going to need some good headwork, whether you use an ITR or GSR head.

As for the K20 from the Si motor, it's not worth it at all. It only has vtec on the intake side first of all, and second of all, your gsr motor would has alot more potential.

 

b20vtec should do the job nicely with aftermarket pistons and rod bolts

 

I would like to do an ls vtec again, but I have been having bad luck w/ them in the past. I had the first one in a 91 4 speed and the machine shop overbored #4 for the oversize type r pistons and ontop of that I tried to do the dpfi-mpfi + vtec wiring myself and failed so I pulled the motor and junked the car. I then got a new block and rebuilt it. I put it in and golden eagle gave me a bad sandwich gasket and a head gasket, so I put those in. The car was running lean and it pointed to the 16 year old injectors so I replaced those then # 4 kept showing up wet from oil because the lack of fuel burned up the rings. so I put new rings w/ another head gasket. #4 still shows up wet w/ oil so I wanted to pull it swap in a good starting point and tear down and inspect the lsV.

 

no personal experience, but i'm just figuring the power to weight ratio, and a short geared tranny, I believe a gsr engine with a b16 tranny and an lsd ( itr or aftermarket) should be able to get you there or at least close, and since you stated previously that your car is already set up for a b series engine, it would be much cheaper to go that way then to swap to a k engine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanplayjoint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would like to do an ls vtec again, but I have been having bad luck w/ them in the past. I had the first one in a 91 4 speed and the machine shop overbored #4 for the oversize type r pistons and ontop of that I tried to do the dpfi-mpfi + vtec wiring myself and failed so I pulled the motor and junked the car. I then got a new block and rebuilt it. I put it in and golden eagle gave me a bad sandwich gasket and a head gasket, so I put those in. The car was running lean and it pointed to the 16 year old injectors so I replaced those then # 4 kept showing up wet from oil because the lack of fuel burned up the rings. so I put new rings w/ another head gasket. #4 still shows up wet w/ oil so I wanted to pull it swap in a good starting point and tear down and inspect the lsV. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You would have incurred those problems whether it was an LSV, GSR, ITR, etc. As for the headgasket, GE supplies the wrong one, so that could've attributed to your problems. It's also mandatory that you tune the motor. If you do things right the first time, you reduce your risk of malfunctions.

 

Mike Belben is in Mass he should be able to help you out with the things you are looking to do.

 

I know the tuning killed me on this motor, but even finding a tuner I would have to bring the car to N.H to have it tuned. At the time it was my only daily driver. I learned alot from this built and like bam bam said doing it right the first time is the key. I lost a stop light battle to a bmw 645 when the motor was at its best it could be and thats what made me get another car so I can deticate to the CRX.

Mike Belben? Does he work in a shop or a H-T member?

 

I know the tuning killed me on this motor, but even finding a tuner I would have to bring the car to N.H to have it tuned. At the time it was my only daily driver. I learned alot from this built and like bam bam said doing it right the first time is the key. I lost a stop light battle to a bmw 645 when the motor was at its best it could be and thats what made me get another car so I can deticate to the CRX.

Mike Belben? Does he work in a shop or a H-T member?

Bam I just noticed ur in CT. You must know what I talking about when I say the hondas are looked at like pee ons around here, **** your further from the track than I am.

 

ITR has a heavier crank than the GSR. I think its around 10 lbs. heavier.

 

Sounds like you need someone to help get the motor built correctly the first time. As far as the engine goes, i'd say go for a 2.0 right off the bat...you need some real torque. Once you have it, 1.6's and 1.8's quickly become a thing of the past. I'd also recommend belben, i've met him and gotten some parts. He has no intention of steering you wrong and will not do poor quality work.

 

Who is this mysterious belben and how do I get in contact?

You know its funny I've worked in a Honda dealer and acura dealer and always jump on the bent valve and hydrolock engine jobs at work and they never come back. then when it comes to my engine it always has an issue. And yes if i could find a proven builder to build a 2.0l for the price of a gsr swap I would. Its hard to get a good job done around here.

 

his username and email is mike_belben @yahoo.com

look at the threadstarters in the all motor forum right now.

 

weight is the key factor necessary to run 12's on streets in a rex. you can run high 12's with a 16 if the car is a featherweight. i remember about 3 years back when my boy ran 13.9@100 in a stripped out EG si hatch with a bone stock 18C1. the motor had a generic sri and cat-bcack. nothing else

 

I hear you on the weight is key issue. I am planning to have two seats and strip the interior out, I would love to do something with the hatch cause that bitch is heavy as a *****, especially w/ the blown hatch struts like everyone else. I already removed the entire a/c system and evaporator a long time ago, but I have a rear disc setup to go on. A street tire or drag radial I will accept using.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR has a heavier crank than the GSR. I think its around 10 lbs. heavier.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I said "nearly". And a heavier crank is not necessarilly a bad thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryanplayjoint &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who is this mysterious belben and how do I get in contact?

You know its funny I've worked in a Honda dealer and acura dealer and always jump on the bent valve and hydrolock engine jobs at work and they never come back. then when it comes to my engine it always has an issue. And yes if i could find a proven builder to build a 2.0l for the price of a gsr swap I would. Its hard to get a good job done around here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can build your motor. PM me for pricing.

 

ive got about a year of work to do in the next 3 months due to tax season. if i were to take on your project it probably couldnt be done until late spring. $2200 labor for a 110% effort motor, consisting of work i cant mention in public. your selection of parts will determine whether it is race or mild, i do the same amount of work in either case.

no matter what you do, its gonna come down to a combination of power to weight ratio and holeshots. going with a big crank and winding it up pretty high will get you your power. finding the right tire height, width, airpressure etc to maximize friction of the contact patch.. and then gearing so that the torque transmitted to the patch doesnt overwhelm its coefficient of friction for more than a gear or so will bring those low 60 foots. balancing weight over the footprint of your car and ensuring that the back doesnt squat, front doesnt rise and camber doesnt change during a launch are the nitty gritty that will make your car awful hard to catch up to right out of 2nd gear.


Modified by mike_belben@yahoo.com at 12:40 PM 2/7/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Runnerdown &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i'd say go for a 2.0 right off the bat....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm also going for 12's in a full street trim 88' CRX Si. My set up so far: 2L GSR, RLZ Head, SK2 Pro 2's, VictorX IM, STR 70mm TB, RMF header. I think I will get pretty close.