how much power is to much
How much power can i push out of my motor before all it does is break traction and wheel hop. the car is a 89 crx si, i do have a traction bar, matrix lowering springs, kyb gas struts and hyper flex bushings. And how much power can a stock dohc zc motor hold when adding a turbo before i have to up grade the rods and any other parts?
search. if i was boosting at all i would atleast get arp head studs, no matter what psi. the real pros here will tell u, but the RED BUTTON ALMOST ALWAYS HAS AN ANSWER!
yea head studs area a must but a stock zc? how ever much HP you get outta 8-10 psi will be the max not 10psi is really pushin it on a stock motor. what size turbo? im guessin t3t4
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lowdreams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much power can i push out of my motor before all it does is break traction and wheel hop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Depends on your suspension setup and tires.
With your setup it's all about launching. You need to know how to drive. Turbo lag helps though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lowdreams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And how much power can a stock dohc zc motor hold when adding a turbo before i have to up grade the rods and any other parts?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would personally keep it at 200 hp. A local tuner around here tunes stock d-series to 250 all the time with no problems.
I would get a metal headgasket and ARP headstuds before you do anything.
Depends on your suspension setup and tires.
With your setup it's all about launching. You need to know how to drive. Turbo lag helps though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lowdreams »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> And how much power can a stock dohc zc motor hold when adding a turbo before i have to up grade the rods and any other parts?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would personally keep it at 200 hp. A local tuner around here tunes stock d-series to 250 all the time with no problems.
I would get a metal headgasket and ARP headstuds before you do anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fezzie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea head studs area a must but a stock zc? how ever much HP you get outta 8-10 psi will be the max not 10psi is really pushin it on a stock motor. what size turbo? im guessin t3t4</TD></TR></TABLE>
Horsepower kills motors, not PSI.
Horsepower kills motors, not PSI.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tuning kills boosted motors, not PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>
tuning kills boosted motors, not PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tuning kills boosted motors, not PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean lack thereof?
tuning kills boosted motors, not PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You mean lack thereof?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dseries_ef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">make some power and find out lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
so true.
so true.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsleeper210 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say around 170 to 200. 200 would be pusing it for a "stock" internal boosted motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it wouldn't.
No it wouldn't.
Don't even mess with pulleys, not going to much for you...every motor is different, ideal plan for 200-250 and when you get your tune you'll see how close you get
This is one of those threads where the op typed it out using a rounded off crayon that is done so to protect him and those around him in a padded room.
Also some troll will tell us we are bad for saying its a bad question. Oddly this troll happens to have broken into the admin powers.
Also some troll will tell us we are bad for saying its a bad question. Oddly this troll happens to have broken into the admin powers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gator88 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">search. but the RED BUTTON ALMOST ALWAYS HAS AN ANSWER!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Our search feature sucks here btw...vbulletin is much better =/
Our search feature sucks here btw...vbulletin is much better =/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Horsepower kills motors, not PSI.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lack of fuel under boost kills motors too. You have no idea how many people I knew who would just slap a turbo on and go driving, having no idea they needed to actually tune and add fuel and blow their engine 2 weeks later, and wonder why and go build it again, repeat.
lack of fuel under boost kills motors too. You have no idea how many people I knew who would just slap a turbo on and go driving, having no idea they needed to actually tune and add fuel and blow their engine 2 weeks later, and wonder why and go build it again, repeat.
hmm, since we are on the subject:
what would help prevent blowing the motor when its stock to begin with? rebuilding it? Such as replacing the rods and piston, seals, pully(maybe??), cams, etc.
Did i list anywrong? any missing that would help in the power gain and keep the engine from blowing itself up?
edit: rebuild for boost. get a higher psi and keep the motor from blowing is what im talking about.
what would help prevent blowing the motor when its stock to begin with? rebuilding it? Such as replacing the rods and piston, seals, pully(maybe??), cams, etc.
Did i list anywrong? any missing that would help in the power gain and keep the engine from blowing itself up?
edit: rebuild for boost. get a higher psi and keep the motor from blowing is what im talking about.
A health motor is always better...if it isn't in good shape boost will just wear it out faster...Some new rings and bearing would be good enough, maybe throw in some ARP head studs and rod bolts if you want...a health stock motor will make tons of power with boost, atleast enough to make a FWD Honda fun
OEM Honda parts are good to throw in, a little pricey but worth it
OEM Honda parts are good to throw in, a little pricey but worth it
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Aug 3, 2004 07:46 PM



