Will PR3 pistons or Wiseco 11.5:1's be better for my setup listed below and why?


Engine: B18C1,
Head: resurfaced, all new gaskets
Full Supertech Valvetrain
Skunk2 stage2
VictorX IM

Block: 81.5mm, decked, rebored,
Eagle Rods
Micropolished crank
ACL Bearings
ARP Headstuds

Fuel:
Walbro 255HP Pump
310 Injectors


Modified by JoePSI at 12:13 PM 1/11/2007

 

Do you drive this car regularly? If so, go with Honda pistons.

 

i would say forged, why are they not suited for driving regularly?

 

go with oem pr3. they can go over 150,000 miles with abuse
oem

 

but why spend the money on the rods if you are just going to get cast pistons?

 

will pr3 be able to safetly goto 9000rpm daily?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECommie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would say forged, why are they not suited for driving regularly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Forged pistons are only really good for about 10-15K miles before they start rattling around in the bore. There are a few cases in which people have driven 20K+ on forged pistons with out any issues, but like I said, a few.

If you are dead set on going forged though, Id recomend looking into a 4032 alloy based forging. The reason I recomend 4032 over 2618 for a car that is regularly driven is because 4032 has a higher silicon percentage in its make up, therefor it will have less of a thermal expansion issue. Your able to run a little tighter piston to wall clearance which minumizes some of the cold start rattle that is somewhat common with 2618. Supertech offers a good mahle 124 alloy forged piston (very simlar to 4032) and Mahle has some nice 4032 offerings as well. Even then, Id still recomend OEM if its something you drive everyday. Your never going to get the same reliability and longevity out of a forged piston that you will see from an OE piston.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JoePSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will pr3 be able to safetly goto 9000rpm daily?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not the piston your worried about in terms of reaching top rpm. Its more the rods (the rod bolts to be specific), the valvetrain and most importantly, for me anyway, your power band. You need to make power up there in order for it to make sense to rev there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its not the piston your worried about in terms of reaching top rpm. Its more the rods (the rod bolts to be specific), the valvetrain and most importantly, for me anyway, your power band. You need to make power up there in order for it to make sense to rev there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is what I've read and been told. Just wanted to clarify. That is why I have eagle rods (arp 2000 bolts) full supertech valvetrain (rated for 10.5k) and a cam that will make power up that high, as well as an Intake manifold designed to make power at the top of the powerband.