Wastegate help....*pics*
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,022
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
hey guys, need some help on this wastegate situation. i've e-mailed turbonetics but no luck. first off i have a turbonetics evolution WG, the problem is at the flange, where the valve seat is. basically there is this ring that won't stay in, therefore making the flange uneven like so:

now with this ring sticking out, the valve isn't seated properley, there's a space inbetween the ring and the seat:

with a little bit of wiggeling, the ring can come right out:

when i pull apart the WG, and take the spring out so that there's no tension, the seat seals nicely against that ring, and the flange is flush:


however when i put the spring back in, and tighten the cap down, it pops out again
:

i'm just wondering how i can get this thing to stay put in there, so that the flange will be flush so i can mount it.
also, i saw this threaded port on it:

i'm not sure what it's for? there's allready a vaccume fitting on it in the cover:

and lastly, does anyone know what psi spring this is?

thanks in advance

now with this ring sticking out, the valve isn't seated properley, there's a space inbetween the ring and the seat:

with a little bit of wiggeling, the ring can come right out:

when i pull apart the WG, and take the spring out so that there's no tension, the seat seals nicely against that ring, and the flange is flush:


however when i put the spring back in, and tighten the cap down, it pops out again
:
i'm just wondering how i can get this thing to stay put in there, so that the flange will be flush so i can mount it.
also, i saw this threaded port on it:

i'm not sure what it's for? there's allready a vaccume fitting on it in the cover:

and lastly, does anyone know what psi spring this is?

thanks in advance
put the ring in where it sticks up the least, and tighten it evenly. what you are looking at is the wastegate valve seat, or fire ring as we call it.
your issue is 100% normal. even the tials do it.
your issue is 100% normal. even the tials do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put the ring in where it sticks up the least, and tighten it evenly. what you are looking at is the wastegate valve seat, or fire ring as we call it.
your issue is 100% normal. even the tials do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are all correct
this is what seals the gates piston on the manifold, without it you cant hardly build any boost and it makes a hell of an exhaust leak
as long and you tighten it down evenly when you put it on, it will seal
your issue is 100% normal. even the tials do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
they are all correct
this is what seals the gates piston on the manifold, without it you cant hardly build any boost and it makes a hell of an exhaust leak
as long and you tighten it down evenly when you put it on, it will seal
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 3
From: I drink Seafoam and poo into catch cans, USA
As said, the valve is supposed to be popped up a bit, when you tighten the wastegate down, it presses in the valve for a good seal.
The second port on the wastegate is for an electronic boost controller. When you have a manual boost controller, it only goes to one port, when you have an electronic boost controller, there is also a solenoid, that goes to the other port on the wastegate to force it to stay shut until it hits the set boost level you set in the boost controller.
The second port on the wastegate is for an electronic boost controller. When you have a manual boost controller, it only goes to one port, when you have an electronic boost controller, there is also a solenoid, that goes to the other port on the wastegate to force it to stay shut until it hits the set boost level you set in the boost controller.
What they said.
And the bottom threaded port is the one you want to use to control boost. You need to pick up a fitting for it and attach your vaccum source there.
And like already stated, you don't need that top port unless you are running an EBC.
I have no idea on the spring rate, I'm only familiar with Tial spring colors.
And the bottom threaded port is the one you want to use to control boost. You need to pick up a fitting for it and attach your vaccum source there.
And like already stated, you don't need that top port unless you are running an EBC.
I have no idea on the spring rate, I'm only familiar with Tial spring colors.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboparts »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get rid of the turbonectics junk nothing but problems has it caused me on my customers cars. I would go with a tial
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even these new Evolution gates? I haven't heard anything bad about them at all. What kind of problems are you having with them?
.</TD></TR></TABLE>Even these new Evolution gates? I haven't heard anything bad about them at all. What kind of problems are you having with them?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Even these new Evolution gates? I haven't heard anything bad about them at all. What kind of problems are you having with them?</TD></TR></TABLE>even the Deltagates work fine on a manifold with proper WG location...
Even these new Evolution gates? I haven't heard anything bad about them at all. What kind of problems are you having with them?</TD></TR></TABLE>even the Deltagates work fine on a manifold with proper WG location...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan89crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even the Deltagates work fine on a manifold with proper WG location...</TD></TR></TABLE>
amen.
we had an old racegate on our race buick motor. 35 psi all day long on a 60-1 8 years ago.
if the spring breaks, the gate should open easier.
amen.
we had an old racegate on our race buick motor. 35 psi all day long on a 60-1 8 years ago.
if the spring breaks, the gate should open easier.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboparts »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well so far overboosting problems and springs breaking which can cause the overboosting.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is with the new Evolution gates? And yeah, how can a spring breaking cause overboost??
This is with the new Evolution gates? And yeah, how can a spring breaking cause overboost??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can a spring breaking cause overboost??</TD></TR></TABLE>exactly what i was thinking...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how can a spring breaking cause overboost??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because anything is possible on Honda-Tech haha.
Because anything is possible on Honda-Tech haha.
ok.. thats a 9psi spring, that ring is a fire ring (just bolt down the wg that ring will press in) and the vac ports, the one with fitting, apply vac line to it (from intake mani, not turbo vacume).. That is the line that will read boost, other opening, just leave it, its used to run a EBC.
Goodluck.
Goodluck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys, now what if i just wanted the 9psi spring and not run a boost controller? should i get something to block off those two openings? </TD></TR></TABLE>
if you block off both ports (or dont hook up the one with the fitting in it already) You will be running alot more then 9psi
Since your WG wont think theres any boost, read my post above.
if you block off both ports (or dont hook up the one with the fitting in it already) You will be running alot more then 9psi
Since your WG wont think theres any boost, read my post above.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...and the vac ports, the one with fitting, apply vac line to it (from intake mani, not turbo vacume).. That is the line that will read boost, other opening, just leave it, its used to run a EBC</TD></TR></TABLE>
other way around. the one with the fitting will stay open and the bottom one will get boost from the intake manifold. your way will make 428psi.
If you want to just run the spring pressure you will just hook up a line from the port with no fitting in it now to the intake manifold. It will probably make a little less than 9 though.
other way around. the one with the fitting will stay open and the bottom one will get boost from the intake manifold. your way will make 428psi.
If you want to just run the spring pressure you will just hook up a line from the port with no fitting in it now to the intake manifold. It will probably make a little less than 9 though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bradabu
Forced Induction
9
May 25, 2013 06:58 PM




