Hi I just got a 1995 Del Sol Vtec 5spd. Here a pic of my car

http://www.buysell.com/root/de....aspx

Anyways my question is I am learning how to drive 5spd.. I can drive it etc but I wouldn't say I am good.. When I go into gear lets say second the car sometimes jerks then drives properly is this because I took my foot off the clutch fast ? Need some advice from you pro's

PS: Does anyone know what rims I have ? lol..

So far my car has a b16a3 motor, koni yellows, short shifter, h&r springs (i think), front and rear strut bar

 

the rims look like Rota Slipstreams from the pic and driving a stick takes practice. if you can't drive it properly yet, don't drive it on the street. go to a parking lot and just experiment with different combinations of gas/clutch. I think what you are describing is what happens when you shift and apply too little gas. the movements and transitions when driving a manual need to be crisp and smooth to avoid damaging your transmission.

 

Ya I have been driving my car in a parking lot for like 4 days now. Also ya I think your right because sometimes its goes in smooth sometimes it jerks and that happens when I get nervous.. Don't wanna get honked at if I stall so somtimes I apply to much gas I guess.

Also the rear of my car seems higher than the front.. Is this because of my shocks or just my springs.

 

damn nice buy bro...looks clean. rims looks like rota slips...i doubt there spoons. um...about driving stick its exactly what you said....you have to gradually let your foot off...its all about timing bro. balancing out the clutch and gas pedal is key. after a couple days of driving you should get use to it. but your lucky to get a b-series motor for your first car (im assuming) i got stuck with a y8 haha...

 

Thanks bmoua. Also yes it has a b series motor (b16a3) and this is my first car trying not to ruin it haha

PS: How much does an OEM honda clutch go for ? Just wondering..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jit01 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks bmoua. Also yes it has a b series motor (b16a3) and this is my first car trying not to ruin it haha

PS: How much does an OEM honda clutch go for ? Just wondering.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

call up honda or you can check online, i'm guessing with everything a good 2-3bills. i'd just go with a act clutch stage 1...no more than that....

 

Does the act clutch have the same feel as oem ? Also the rear end of my car seems higher than the front (by a bit) is this because of my shocks (koni yellows) or my springs ?

 

If you are going through the dealer (which I'm assuming you are) a clutch will actually run you around 500 and they will double it with labor. The dealerships are full of crooks. If you know of a respectable shop that will put your clutch in for you, do that. Order your own clutch and while you are at it you might as well get a lightened flywheel for some nice throttle response. For the price of an OEM clutch, you can get an aftermarket clutch and flywheel that will better your performance, and many times, last longer.

 

I guess when this one goes I will just get an aftermarket clutch. I was not going to get the clutch installed by a honda dealer I have my own mechanic who does my work.. He's pretty cheap and is reliable.. He charges $300 Canadian for a whole swap install !

 

Nice car there man! And as others have said, just keep practicing you'll get there..easiest way I found to do it is as you're letting out the clutch feather the gas to get you going good and then shift at generally 10 MPH intervals (which if you have the manual it will tell you the optimal MPH to shift at) but general rule of thumb is 1st to 2nd at 20 mph, 2nd to 3rd at 30-35 MPH 3rd to 4th at about 45 MPH and 5th at 55 MPH and over.

 

Don't listen to this guy.

Drive it out on the road, you'll learn real fast if you stall at a light.

Check it, the reason why it's doing that is b/c you're taking your foot off the clutch without giving it adequate throttle.

When you're engaging the wheels to the engine (letting out the clutch) you need to give it some throttle to compensate for the extra mass being added to the engine (the weight of the car).

So right when the clutch feels like it's about to grab give it gas. Don't ******* floor it, but give it some throttle. The key to upshifting is slow, steady movements. If you give it gas while holding the clutch too long you'll burn the clutch. In case you don't know what that sounds like it sounds like you're accelerating..but your car isn't actually accelerating.

Also smells horrible if you do it enough.

So just release the clutch slower and give it gas when it's about to grab, that should solve the "Jerking" problem.

If you need any specific help or anything like that hit me up on AIM (in my profile) or IM/PM me on here (H-T).

I'd be more than happy to help and have taught plenty of people to drive standard, with a number definitely over 20, mostly in real life...but online as well.

And outta all the people I taught I still haven't taught my mom...HA....ah if she ever buys a manual I'll teach her .

Now that I'm reflecting of the mass number of people I taught to drive standard...I shoulda ******* charged 'em...coulda made a quick buck .

Yeah..but my lessons are still free

EDIT:
PS: If you don't know what I mean by "where the clutch grabs" - to find out just go to a flat piece of ground (anywhere).

And let out the clutch VERY slowly without giving it ANY gas. When the RPM start going real low and the car starts to shake it'll start to roll a bit. That's when your clutch is grabbing. If you continue letting the clutch out just right it'll roll and then start to buck. If you let it out a bit too fast it'll stall. Of course when it's rolling if you give it a **** hair of throttle you can start to accelerate perfectly. Though that's not the recommended method for starting...it burns your clutch, just use it to test to find where ur clutch is grabbing.

Don't do the "testing" part out on the street though, make sure that's in a perfectly flat area with some front and back room (by flat I mean no brakes needed).

Though contrary to what that first guy said, I think first hand experience, actually driving on the road is the best way to get used to driving a standard, that's how I've taught all the people I've taught in real life, took 'em out on an actual ******* road right in the middle of the ****. You figure out **** a lot faster, it's a natural mental response, you'll be thinking faster and such, you'll learn better.

Just remember, I'm sure you drove an automatic at some point so keep this tip in mind. THE BRAKE IS STILL THE BRAKE. Many accidents that happen from new drivers (of manual transmissions) on the street occur because the person tenses up and doesn't know where the brake is and rolls into something, usually low speed accidents. So just remember, regardless of what the expletive you're doing, that middle pedal ALWAYS means stop. So if you ever feel panicky, don't feel bad if you have to just nail the brake in a parking lot or something and have the car stall out. All part of learning. Just don't nail the brake while going 50 mph down the road b/c you get a little gittery...I'm talking about the tense part that usually happens at low speeds, like in parking lots and such.

EDIT #2:
As for hills and such, you'll learn how to start on them really quickly once you get used to starting on flat ground. Though in the meantime there's two methods that usually work flawlessly for new drivers starting on hills.
One:
Pull the hand brake up but hold the button in. The car won't roll back. Then give it gas and start to let the clutch out. When it starts to pull a bit let the e-brake down and ease off the clutch.
Two:
Bit more advanced way, this was the way I learned (my g/f taught me to drive standard...which btw she taught me the same method I recommended, she just drove me to a fucked up ghetto *** town and made me drive back, once you're dropped in the **** you start to react 10,000 times faster) is first you start obviously with your right foot on the brake and your left on the clutch. While sitting there let the clutch out slowly until the RPM go to about 300 (the car will shake, that's the clutch grabbing) then DON'T LET IT OUT ANY FURTHER. Due to the clutch half engaged the car will be pulling, but not enough to move it, so it'll usually be pretty stationary (won't roll back). Then you just give it gas and let it out the rest of the way. Only problem with this is don't let the clutch grab half ended like that for more than like, 15 seconds or you're going to start to roast the clutch...so make sure you time it right.

Ya, feel free to holla at me, I'm more than happy to help newcomers to manual transmissions learn how to drive them. Hit me up. And trust me...I've seen it all when it comes to peoples' intelligence levels contradicting with their driving of a manual transmission. So I've seen/heard just about everything. Nothing is "stupid" in my opinion in that sense.




Modified by Syndacate at 11:42 AM 1/4/2007

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ this guy knows his ****, id trust him before anyone else on here,, good luck with the new ride bro,

 

Very true. Ive been only driving a manual for just over a year and I was forced to learn in one day. If you can move the car around, thats good enough for the road. That made me learn fast too. I got nervous on every stop light so my mind was quicker. Hills are a different story. Find a small slope when know one is around and practice. I dont use the ebrakes. I do the second method combined with my right foot releasing the brake and pressing on the gas at the same time.

Congrates! So far youre headed to the right start.

 

syndacate summed it up basically.

 

Thanks everyone ! I don't have problems with hills anymore.. only problem is that jerking crap

 

lol u will get the hang of it bro,, no worries,, i have thought many girls to drive my car talk about fuking wipelash