I just replaced my TB gasket and IM gasket to fix and vacuum leaks and coolant leaks since I just manual swapped. When I started the car this morning and for the first 15 minutes of it running, the idle was bouncing, surging... whatever word you want to use... between 1800 and 2500. Now the bouncing idle is gone and actually idles normal... would this be due to the ECU adapting or something? The ECU was turned on for the first time in... at least 3 months and it's reading from a Z6 TB, while it's a 00 EX ecu. Did it adapt or should I still be hunting for a vacuum leak?

 

going up

 

Run the car at idle with the radiator cap off and top off the coolant.

You might have air pockets in the coolant.

 

i'll try that in the morning

 

Like as posted before, Run the car at idle w/o the radiator cap.

And that ''adapting'' your talking about is the ECU Reseting.. But to properly ensure you reset the ecu pull the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds.. Or you can pull the ECU fuse under the hood.

 

it gets reset like 6 times a day since I keep unplugging it while I was putting in the IM and trouble shooting every which thing. Now I'm down to I know I don't have a vacuuming but I still bounce when cold. I'll drain then put the coolant back in before I run it and do that. If that doesn't do it, i'll try replacing my TPS sensor with my original one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtchinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it gets reset like 6 times a day since I keep unplugging it while I was putting in the IM and trouble shooting every which thing. Now I'm down to I know I don't have a vacuuming but I still bounce when cold. I'll drain then put the coolant back in before I run it and do that. If that doesn't do it, i'll try replacing my TPS sensor with my original one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't just throw parts at the car.. The bouncing idle could be the Fast idle thermo valve or the Idle air control valve.. I'm thinking most likely it's gonna be one of the two..

After the car reaches normal operating temperature the car's idle is fine, correct?

 

Not really sure. I changed the gaskets because I had a vacuum leak on my TB gasket and a coolant leak in my IM gasket. When I first turn it on, high revs 2500~ then starts bouncing 1800-2500. I needed to get to work so I drove it. When I got to work (about a 15 minute drive later) it was regular idling. So I guess you can say at normal temperature it idles normal. I was reading about the fitv possibly being the problem. I have no carbon cleaner though and I don't want to take apart my fitv. If it still high revvs after the radiator thing and tps replacement, I guess i'll inspect both iacv and fitv. Also it started overheating a bit when I was doing an offramp (a curved incline) in 4th, so I believe that indicates bubbles in my radiator.

 

I drained the coolant, refilled it, then ran idle with the cap off for 5 minutes. Now the car just idles high (2500~) then drops gradually to 1500~ then slowly drops to 850~. no more bouncing, just a high cold idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jtchinoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drained the coolant, refilled it, then ran idle with the cap off for 5 minutes. Now the car just idles high (2500~) then drops gradually to 1500~ then slowly drops to 850~. no more bouncing, just a high cold idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like how it posed to be.

 

really? m/t cars idle that high cold? when it was a/t, it would high idle 1500-1600 then drop to 700. Oh well, better then bouncing.