Im looking for a resolution for this broken strut tower bolt and I want to keep OEM. Does anybody have any advise on locating the correct parts. Ive already checked with the dealership and it is not available. Thanks in advance

 

A junkyard will have it for sure, and I dont think there is a difference between Ls, gsr, and type R so just get whatever they have.

 

I've been missing the same bolt from my tower bar and also been trying to also figure out how to find a replacement. I'm sure we can easily locate a new replacement bolt, but i've looked on teh underside of the bolt and it seems like it is welded on. In that case what is the best option to fix this problem?

 

hardware store dudes, they usually carry certain metric bolts, but The auto store Definitely Does. pep boys, auto advance etc. take that nut off and try those metric testers where you can screw that nut on to it. and find the right one.

By the way buy a thick washer to next time. so it wont make crease around the strut area, or on the strut bar itself.

 

I would have to say re-thread the hole with a stonger bolt.

 

This same thing has happened to me, its not welded on, theres some sort of rubber or something covering the bolt on the bottom and the bolt has teeth where it grips the rubber/(wutever it is),

If you go to a junkyard they can take the bolt off a hit integra, and all you have to do is gently hit it in place so that the teeth grip, and when you bolt it up from the other side everything tightens and you wont have to worry about it again.

Also if you can find something similar to the bolt, im pretty sure that would work as well

 

If this fails, go to comptech.com. I have a 1996 Civic LX. Did not have holes for a tower bar. So... I had to drill the frame in order to use this style (not to the shock tower bolts), and i used an ITR knock off bar. I did not have the bolts, so I got this 18$ bracket pair from comptech that goes on the other side of the frame, has two threaded sticks (like what you broke) and a bar holding em together. Mine is held on BY the nuts, so you will need two hands. However, this requires you to knock out that other stud. This bracket is extremely durable, maybe better than OEM and I am using upgraded nuts that I got from Home Depot. No issues, and I have taken this bar off more times than I care to remember.

 

take a tap and tap out the stud thats in there and put a new bolt from the bottom up and a new nut... that simple

 

drill the whole, stick a bolt with a washer on the underneath, then a locking washer and nut on top and call it a day

 

Not going to be as strong as factory wielded on.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cxSHOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill the whole, stick a bolt with a washer on the underneath, then a locking washer and nut on top and call it a day
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can't suggest much other than retapping.. maybe use some jb weld around it or tackweld it if its even possible to do without messing up threads..

but i think i know how to avoid this problem. don't overtorque your bolts. i'm gonna check with torque wrench to factory specs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Biloxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not going to be as strong as factory wielded on.

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someone already said its not welded in, but if it was explain to me how 2 spot welds is stronger than nothing..

i work at a body shop, i see spot welds all the time.. i can knock them loose with a hammer.

it will be strong enough, or stronger if he uses another bolt, perhaps a bigger one

 

just punch it out or something and install new grade 8 (bronze) bolts. but if you wanna keep it stock then you would have to get it off a civic si or gsr/type r simple fix 2 out of 10. good luck

 

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but this happened to me when i was putting the oem ITR strut bar on my integra gsr. My pops fixed the problem with a tool called a "puncher", and it worked magically! Put in the new 12 mm bolt from the bottom, and then tightened everything

 

cool story bro.

 

So you bumped a 5-year-old thread to tell us the same exact thing that had already been figured out 5 years ago?

And, in the wrong forum, too.

Awesome.