is a C clamp needed to do brakes?

 

It will make installing the new pads easier, but not needed. I use a hammer handle and rest the caliper against the knuckle, and push.

 

What he ^ said but I would highly recommend a C-Clamp, it just makes life easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It will make installing the new pads easier, but not needed. I use a hammer handle and rest the caliper against the knuckle, and push.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, I do it pretty much the same way!

 

I use a large pair of channel locks.

 

^^^yea true^^^ I think my rotors are wraped

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^yea true^^^ I think my rotors are wraped</TD></TR></TABLE>

When replacing brakes you should always resurface or replace the rotors whether they are warped or not. If they are warped your brakes will pulsate.

 

If you are real desperate you can do it with your fingers But yeah i like the C clamp method myself. Oh and dont try the c-clamp on the reap calipers, you actually have to "screw" those back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use a large pair of channel locks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Same here. I used to use a C-clamp for the fronts, but a big pair of channel locks is much faster and easier.

If you have rear discs, the rear caliper pistons must be screwed in, not compressed like the fronts.

Also, remember to take the cap off of the master cylinder reservoir before pushing/screwing in any pistons.

 

On the front I use the old inner pad and a brake compressor tool.

I have one rear caliper that turns REAL hard when screwing it back in. Do I need to replace the caliper or could there be another problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have rear discs, the rear caliper pistons must be screwed in, not compressed like the fronts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Errrr, what? I did the brakes on my EM1 and I used a c-clamp to do the rears. No problems at all.

Also, I always open the bleeder ports when pushing pistons back in so the nasty fluid from the lines doesn't get up into the master cylinder and has a chance to ruin seals, etc. It just gets pushed right out the bleeder port. You should flush out all the old brake fluid after doing your brakes anyway.

 

c- clamp makes it pretty easy juat put ur old pad against the piston and put the clamp on then tighten till that sucker is back in

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Errrr, what? I did the brakes on my EM1 and I used a c-clamp to do the rears. No problems at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you keep doing that, you're going to ruin the rear calipers.

All calipers that have an integrated cable-actuated parking brake function require their pistons to be turned in, not pushed. Why do you think they make special rear caliper piston tools for this purpose?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, I always open the bleeder ports when pushing pistons back in so the nasty fluid from the lines doesn't get up into the master cylinder and has a chance to ruin seals, etc. It just gets pushed right out the bleeder port. You should flush out all the old brake fluid after doing your brakes anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That introduces air into the calipers and requires bleeding the system.

While I agree with you that the old fluid should be flushed out frequently, some cars don't have that option without causing other problems. On old (usually 8-10+ years) cars that have never had a hydraulic system flush and are still running the factory fill brake fluid, a flush could cause the master cylinder to fail shortly afterwards - either because the debris and gunk that is helping the MC piston seals to hold gets broken up, or because the person pumping the pedal during the procedure pushes it too far and tears the seals by scraping them repeatedly over deposits that built up over years on the MC wall beyond the normal piston travel. This happens very frequently (ask me how I know personally).

I usually recommend whenever a fluid flush is being done on an older car that has never been flushed before that the person also be ready to replace the master cylinder (usually $100-200 + fluid) in case it fails as a result.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Errrr, what? I did the brakes on my EM1 and I used a c-clamp to do the rears. No problems at all.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats just a flat out lie. it IS IMPOSSIBLE to compress an intergrated caliper (meaning parking brake functioning). only way to do so is if the internal threads are stripped in which case the caliper isnt functioning anyways.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That introduces air into the calipers and requires bleeding the system. While I agree with you that the old fluid should be flushed out frequently, some cars don't have that option without causing other problems. On old (usually 8-10+ years) cars that have never had a hydraulic system flush and are still running the factory fill brake fluid, a flush could cause the master cylinder to fail shortly afterwards - either because the debris and gunk that is helping the MC piston seals to hold gets broken up, or because the person pumping the pedal during the procedure pushes it too far and tears the seals by scraping them repeatedly over deposits that built up over years on the MC wall beyond the normal piston travel. This happens very frequently (ask me how I know personally).

I usually recommend whenever a fluid flush is being done on an older car that has never been flushed before that the person also be ready to replace the master cylinder (usually $100-200 + fluid) in case it fails as a result.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you open the bleeder, compress the caliper, and close the bleeder w/out releasing tension on the caliper no air is drawn in, and you NORMALLY wont have a problem. this is how i do it for a few reasons, and its honestly the best way to collapse the piston.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you open the bleeder, compress the caliper, and close the bleeder w/out releasing tension on the caliper no air is drawn in, and you NORMALLY wont have a problem. this is how i do it for a few reasons, and its honestly the best way to collapse the piston. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I could see where that would be easy with the fronts, but having never done it myself, it seems like it would be a real PITA to do it on the rears without introducing some air.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I could see where that would be easy with the fronts, but having never done it myself, it seems like it would be a real PITA to do it on the rears without introducing some air.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, open the bleeder (gravity keeps fluid flowing out, so no air comes in) grab your tool, screw the piston in, tighten the bleeder, remove tool. i guess it depends on what caliper tool you use, i use a matco tool that holds constant pressure while screwing the piston in, so until you manually release the tool no air will enter the system.

you are right though, its a little messy sometimes, and aggrivating if the bleeder is frozen or rough coming in/out. but its still worth knowing that you arent backfeeding the hydraulic system with contaminants.

domestic vehicles equipped with ABS are prime suspects for clogged reset switched after backfeeding the system instead of opening the bleeder. Ford explorers in particular.

 

Get some vice grips like these! They are super handy when it comes to doing brakes!!!!!