The motor spun them once, we just strait replaced the bearings, it did it again, 16 miles on a new rebuild. Crank is pretty screwed up. What should I do?

First off whats causing these bearing spins, we used quaker state oil, decent stuff i guess, used a shitload of assembly lube and proper torque specs/patterns. The dealership suggested a bad oil pump but I haven't gotten to tearing that down yet.
We honed out the pistons, do we need to replace those or the rods? The engine was rebuilt, then spun like 3k miles later, then 16 this time around. Could it be the oil pump, should I look to rebuild or replace that case being. Im thinking its long needed an oil pump but now the crank is looking pretty shady and to tear that out might be more than I can handle, any idea how much machineing on those is?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Patman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What should I do?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
get a new builder, or a new motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekslax &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
get a new builder, or a new motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>


x2

 

-.- I built it. Lol, first rebuild ever, I guess I'm happy it went anywhere at all. But I can do what you tell me to just like anybody else, I'm looking for some good advice on how to make this setup work, anybody?

 

could be oil pump.not lubing the bearings like it should be and there streved of oil and just give out.lol damn yea i cant wait to see my first motor build i hope it even runs too.did u make sure the measurments for rods bearings was all right?

 

What about the crank? Do scores in it really do anything but allow more oil to get to that bearing? Is their anyway I can "hone" them?

 

maybe you your torquing was off, there is too much that it can be, without more info and and pics its really hard to tell.

 

are the crank juronals scrathed or scored in any way shap or from,cause that cause make it spin too.did u apply enough lube to it when u put it together?

 

did you use plasti-gauge?

 

i really hope you arent spending all this money on a stock motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90_EF_Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i really hope you arent spending all this money on a stock motor </TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said

standard for spun bearings. replace bearings crank and rods that are out of round or discolored. Improper bearing sizing and poor oil supply are contributors to spun bearings. Something I have noticed is lower Hondas get there oil pans hammered in from speed bumps and road debris which restricts oil flow into the pump. This will kill you engine fast if you have a vtec engine and a lowered car and suddenly you car will not go into vtec stop driving it and check this immediately. However don’t spend hundreds of dollars rebuilding a stock motor when you can order a vtec d15 for like $500. good luck.

 

1. How did you measure what size bearings you need?
2. How did you measure for the right clearances?
3. What kind of bearings did you use?
4. What is the condition of the crank? You spun the bearings the first time?

When we build our race motors, we use precision tools such as dial bore gauges, micrometers, calipers, etc.

These precision tools help us measure the clearances needed for each bearing. You can either adjust the clearances by using different size Honda bearings or if possible, cut the crank to get the desired clearance.

Also, if there was already a spun bearing before, we usually Junk the crank itself. When it has already had the hot spots and scoured from the spun bearing, its best to not reuse it and start off with a fresh crank with good journals.

Also choosing the right oil to match the clearances you did for the bearings make a difference also.

Other things that can affect clearances on the bearings are how you torque down the main caps. Sometimes you'll get really bad resistance from debris or damage to the threads when you tighten down the bolts. This causes inaccurate readings on the torque wrench and we usually clean the threads over and over again until you get the bolt to go in smoothly without trouble.

Another thing that we do also is when we do a tear down of a customers block or a block core we get from local junkyards, is we do a tear down inspection. All bearings on the mains and rods are noted for the original OEM Honda color. So when we are rebuilding that block later on, we have a reference on the history of the block.

Good luck on your rebuild again. Take your time in doing it right. These are exactly the things we try to prevent by doing it the BEST way we can to prevent situations like this.

 

Thank you, that post was awesome. I have faith in this forum still.

1 Factory ones from summit.
2 We didn't, we just got factory ones.
3 I forget the name 31 for the set, they had a nascar logo on them lol.
4 Crank had scores from the first time.

I talked to people and I heard about getting the connecting rods inspected, I already know Im getting the crank ground and proper bearing sizes. What/How do I ask about the connecting rods? Can i just eyeball them with each other or is their a fairly accurate tool to compare them with?

oh and oil. I used quakerstate 5w-30, I assumed that to be good, how would I go about selecting the right oil?

and the last bolt got stretched or warped somehow so we used washers to fill the gap. lol god I feel like such an idiot. It had that serious resistance to bolting in and I didn't want to drop 15 and a few days on a new bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Patman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

1 Factory ones from summit.
2 We didn't, we just got factory ones.
3 I forget the name 31 for the set, they had a nascar logo on them lol.
4 Crank had scores from the first time.

Can i just eyeball them with each other or is their a fairly accurate tool to compare them with?


and the last bolt got stretched or warped somehow so we used washers to fill the gap. lol god I feel like such an idiot. It had that serious resistance to bolting in and I didn't want to drop 15 and a few days on a new bolt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LMAO, I dont even know where to start. Is this thread a joke or what?

 

If your bolt (especially the rod cap bolt) got stretched I am amazed you even made it 16 miles. Those bolts are tapered and if there was a washer on it heaven help you. That thing must have been knocking like hell before it got tore down. I would say junk the entire engine dude. I have been through this with an sr20 before. I got a new crank and it did it again within 10 miles and I work at a honda dealership and I used every tool in the shop along with other mechanics and it was perfect. ONE part from the bad motor will ruin the entire new setup trust me!