I have a 90 civic with a broken Si trans. I want to rebuild it. I heard that hydro trans have stronger shift forks is that true and if so can i swap them into my cable trans what other rebuild tips can you recomend for extremely hard shifting? IE: ALOT of no-lift shifting. Would a light weight flywheel be easier onthe syncros? does anyone make carbon coated syncros or 2 piece syncros for a D-series?

 

Some hydro parts are interchangeable, but not the forks. Don't abuse it and you won't break the aluminum forks anyway. The light flywheel will have no affect the synchros because you are disconnected from it when you shift. The carbon synchros can be purchased from http://www.gearspeedinc.com/

 

If you want, you could order a DOHC ZC trans from hmotors. And use your differential + final drive + 5th gear in it.

the dohc zc cable trans has all the same bearings, forks, synchros, etc as your 90 si trans. That way you'd have an extra pool of spare parts + good gearing.

 

Bense is my hero

 

well guess what tonight driving home from my cousins i decide to rip on it a little bit 1st 2nd go for third wont go in try 4th wont go 5th wont go. "ohh ****" let out the clutch slowly, its stuck in 2nd gear. not the first time this has happened its gettign old prety quick this trans only lasted me 2 and a half months maybe im a little hard on em does anyone know of a place that makes like chromoly shift forks or something so i dont have to keep swapping transes every 3 months


Modified by lvlrlvlopar at 7:24 PM 12/23/2006

 

don't powershift.

 

thats not going to help because im not gonna stop beating on it. i want to make it stronger so it wont break again

 

whatever dude, what do i know. Good luck

 

im not tryin to be an ******* here i just love nolifting my car i want something that will hold up to it. anybody ever heard of putting a b series trany behind a d series becasue as of now i have an extra one sittin in my garage

 

What do you think that will do for you? They are the same basic design. Change your driving habits or get used to swapping transmissions.

 

Word. You can't expect to missuse something and get reliability out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jim Truett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some hydro parts are interchangeable, but not the forks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry Jim, but 5th gear shift fork interchangeable (same PL3 part)....

Yet to try the P20 1-2 fork, it is beefier.

No lift shifts are not a problem, agressive driver who can't shift is.

 

those carbon coated syncros should help though shouldnt they?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry Jim, but 5th gear shift fork interchangeable (same PL3 part)....

Yet to try the P20 1-2 fork, it is beefier.

No lift shifts are not a problem, agressive driver who can't shift is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That I know, but to keep it simple for the OP I omitted that info. He was looking for stronger parts, and that would not help him in his quest. I took it from the angle of the steel '96+ forks not being compatible with his case.

The P20 1-2 fork should work with a modified sleeve. I have been too lazy to try it myself. I haven't broken a PL3 one yet anyway.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lvlrlvlopar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">those carbon coated syncros should help though shouldnt they?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not if your shifting style does not allow for smooth, timely engagement.

 

so whats wrong with my style? i ran a 15.2 at 90.55 with a 2.2 60ft in a 90std d16z6 converted to obd1 with a "homade" exhaust the car dynoed 95 hp on dynapacks before the exhaust not saying that its the fastest car in the world no am i the best driver but thats better than i was expecting for my first time ever at the track on my 2nd of 2 runs. is there a tutorial on H-T somewhere how to correctly powershit a civic?

 

is the p20 fork that much stronger i thought they were alumnium too. honastly im willing to try prety much anything except my abusive trany habbits, i dont mean to be a stuborn *** but it gives me pleasure to rip through the gears

 

then learn to drive......you'll stop breaking forks......and learn to shift quicker....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lvlrlvlopar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so whats wrong with my style? i ran a 15.2 at 90.55 with a 2.2 60ft in a 90std d16z6 converted to obd1 with a "homade" exhaust the car dynoed 95 hp on dynapacks before the exhaust not saying that its the fastest car in the world no am i the best driver but thats better than i was expecting for my first time ever at the track on my 2nd of 2 runs. is there a tutorial on H-T somewhere how to correctly powershit a civic?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you didn't run a 15.2 by beating the crap out of your tranny. You did it b/c you have a decent motor in a lightweight chassis. Look for a road race tutorial they talk about shifting smoothly and quickly.

Basically, if I remember correctly, don't grab the shift **** with your fist, rest your palm on top of the shift **** and use your fingers for 1&gt;2 and 3&gt;4 shifts and the heel of your palm for the 2&gt;3 4&gt;5 shifts. Hopefully that makes sense...i always kind of hold it with my thumb too. Also always make sure the clutch is fully disengaged.

 

what a coincidence that exactly how i shift

 

The first step is admitting that you have a problem.


sucks for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lvlrlvlopar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what a coincidence that exactly how i shift </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also don't try to shift too fast.....let the syncros do their job.

There is also a SMALL chance that the 15 year old transmissions that you're buying are already messed up and you just push them over the edge. If that's the case then rebuilding it to stock specs would be fine......maybe use the carbon syncros, and cryo'd shift forks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurnFast.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The second bad habit some people have is shifting with excessive force. Too tight a grip, and slamming from one gear to another will actually slow your shifting down, and cause excessive mechanical wear. Proper shifting uses an open palm grip on the top of the shift ****, and a gentle but fast guide from one gear to another. We repeat---all shifting is properly done with the hand open and cupped over the top of the ****, not wrapped around it like a fighter plane control stick.

Some of you may be tempted to learn the techniques of "speed shifting"--shifting without using the clutch--in the interest of saving time. Many schools and professional racers have shown over and over that there is no speed or lap time advantage to this, and it carries a much higher risk of gear box damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://turnfast.com/tech_drivi...shtml

 

thanks guys i guess i am going to rebuild it back to factory specs and ust the carbon syncros see how that works. but in the mean time i still need a trany does anyone have a cable d series in the upstate ny area that they want to sell cheep

 

cant you use LS rods in a d16z6?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenEGG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant you use LS rods in a d16z6?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes....but that has nothing to do with transmissions