I'm about to buy a Elemental Design EHQS12 subwoofer for my xtant 121m Amp. I'm not sure about which subwoofer to get. Do I get the 2 or 4 voice coil subwoofer? Here are the specs on my amplifier. Can someone also tell me exactly how I should wire it by showing me a quick diagram. Thanks!

Subwoofer:
http://www.edesignaudio.com/ed...d=183

Xtant manual:
http://www.xtant.com/html/tech...n.pdf

Model Xtant 121m
Watts per Channel @ 4 Ohms: 1 x 125
Watts per Channel @ 2 Ohms: 1 x 250
Bridged Mono Output @ 4 Ohms: N/A
Frequency Response: 5 Hz to 50 kHz
Distortion (THD): < 0.08%
Signal-To-Noise Ratio: > 100 dB
Damping Factor (@ 100 Hz into 4½ load): > 200
Input Sensitivity
Unbalanced Source 100mV to 8.5V
Balanced Source 100mV to 17V
Output Impedance: 2 - 8 Ohms
Output Impedance (Bridged): 4 - 8 Ohms
Supply Voltage: 10.5 to 15 Volts
Fuse: 30 Amp 30 Amp 50 Amp

 

Get the single voice coil 2ohm. This will provide 250watts to the speaker. Its over by 50 but be easy on the gain. I don't use or sell those subs so I don't know how the perform.

 

I decided to go with the MB Quart DISCUS DWG 304. It will be a good match with the sealed enclosure I already have.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/MBQDWG304

 

Then you under power the speaker by a 100 watts. I rather over power then under power. And that speaker will sound like pooooo if its under powered. I tried that speaker before.

 

Put in the sub 2 days ago. Definitely more of a SQ sub rather than a SPL sub. I like it

 

Why ask for advice if you don't listen to it when you get it? I sure hope your gains are conservative, or else you risk frying that sub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misanthropist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why ask for advice if you don't listen to it when you get it? I sure hope your gains are conservative, or else you risk frying that sub. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did I ever say that I never took his advice into consideration? I'll ask whatever I want to ask and do whatever I want to do.

I can drive speakers with a 100% clipped square wave signal all day long with no problems as long as the thermal and mechanical limits of the speaker are not exceeded. I can feed a speaker 100% distortion all day long with no damage as long as the thermal and mechanical limits of the speaker are not exceeded. I can exceed the thermal and/or mechanical limits of a speaker and watch it fail in short order. These are electrical and physical truths and anything else is a myth.


Modified by phayzeone at 10:20 PM 1/1/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phayzeone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Put in the sub 2 days ago. Definitely more of a SQ sub rather than a SPL sub. I like it </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't see it peforming great sound quality when underpowered by 100 watts especialy when I seen that sub in action being under powered by a small amp. But hey its your gear and setup. if it works for you and your happy Not a setup that I would recommend someone to do thou.

 

WRX-killer-STI eater Good to see someone knows there stuff - by the way love the boot on the WRX. How are you feeding the 4 X 10" subs i.e 2 mono-block amps and paralleling 2 of the speaker to give you 2 sets of 2 ohm speakers, one set for each amp.

Its a shame when people quote engineering and physics but don't understand the terminology or concepts.

Phayzeone is it not the amp which will fail first or the speaker - DC to a speaker which is basically an inductor- a coil of wire & DC which occurs in amplifier clipping- heats the coil of the speaker which then fails shorts the outputs of the amp and then this cooks the amp. Speakers are a AC coupled device. they should never be fed by DC or the amplifier rail voltage.
also an amplifier being an ac output is pulsed voltage & current so the effective heating is only a proportion of the cycle. when you apply clipping signal for extended time, more so with lower ohm loads, the mark to space ration (on to off time) increases and you amp (depending on its generation) will fry its output stage and then cook the speaker. The output of the amp is not designed to supply continious DC high currents -
Heating will affect both devices and its a case which will give out first.

Both devices have optimal operational bands and limits and its best not to push the boundaries-drive speaker to hard or amps to the rails

There is also a big difference between driving a amp with a square wave and amplifier clipping

SO DON'T BLoW IT. -fixed occasionaal typo


Modified by Jollybandit at 7:53 AM 1/4/2007


Modified by Jollybandit at 12:52 PM 1/4/2007

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jollybandit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
SO DON'T BLEW IT.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's "So don't blow it".