Attempting to finish my tuck, I now have a CEL, Fuel Pump doesn't prime when the ignition is turned on and I can't find the damn plug to pull the CEL. It isn't any of these correct? I dont want to go jumping plugs and end up doing more damage than good....

 

It's the blue one at the bottom with the black wire and brown wire.

 

i tried that one, i thought that was it and nothing happened???NO flashing CEL. WTF?

 

was your key in the ignition set on pos 2?

 

Make sure your jumper wire was in there good. Also, if you're doing a wire tuck, you may want to make sure that you didn't damage those wires somewhere else. If you did, it wouldn't matter if you jumpered the plug, it would still not read the codes.

It might go without saying, but have you checked your main relay? The CEL may be for a different problem.

 

I tried again this morning and still no CEL. I was careful with wires I know they aren't damaged. I have had problems with my main relay before... not really sure what to do at this point.

 

You did not pull any batery cables that my have reset the ECU did you. Im sure you did not, but I wanted to see if it could be a simple answer.

 

Yes, battery is now relocated to the trunk, did I loose my Neptune?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by floored4door &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I tried again this morning and still no CEL. I was careful with wires I know they aren't damaged. I have had problems with my main relay before... not really sure what to do at this point. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if you've had problems with the main relay before, I'd suggest that you check it to make sure that the fuel pump issue isn't caused by the relay.

Eliminating that, I'm curious about this: Does the CEL turn on when you start the car and stay on?

What are you jumpering the plug with?

Does it do anything at all when you jumper it?

If all else fails, you might want to check continuity at the jumper and at the other end of the wire, one is green/white and the other is brown at the ECU, although I'm not sure which pins they go to. That green/white wire hits a lot of other circuits, so it's possible that something got fouled up. You might see about jumpering directly from the green/white wire at the ECU to the brown wire at the ECU if something really is messed up in the wiring.

 

check yuor main ground from the car to the trans....when i did my swap, i forgot to put that on and fuel pump wouldnt prime or some on and i didnt get any check engine lights....so it took me forever to find it..but i forgot to put that ground on and once I did...it worked. As weird as that sounds, even though you didnt swap, you said you did a wire tuck so maybe you disconnected it

 

this about sums it up...


Anyone know what C64 is for on the board. It traces to the very bottom right pin on the first plug of my ECU. P72.

 

Ouch That sux
if you can still read the numbers on the part and know how to sodder that is a $.25 fix at radio shack. if you dont know how to sodder dont even attempt because you'll burn the circuit board and mess every thing up. Its not as bad as it could be i do electronics work in the army I've see way worse and fixed it.

!!!!!DO NOT ATEMT IF YOU HAVE NEVER WORKED ON CIRCUTRY BEFORE!!!!!


what you need
get a good low heat soldering iron.(Do not use a cold heat it will burn the circuit board.)
also get a solder sucker (its about 9.99 at radio shack its a blue metalic tube with a small white tip)
low heat solder
a new resistor

here's what you do

First you carefully melt the solder away from the leads so *** not to burn the boards (do not touch the Iron to the board you will burn it that way)

then use the solder sucker to pick up the old solder
repeat till you have gotten all the solder removed from the board.
(or as much as you can so that the the holes for the leads are open are not bridged with soddier)

then carefully place the new resistor in the holes and apply the new solder on the back of the board carefully as to not bridge the leads

then take a diagonal cutters and clip the excess of the leads

plug the ecu back in and start your car up

!!!!!DO NOT ATEMT IF YOU HAVE NEVER WORKED ON CIRCUTRY BEFORE!!!!!


If i have any spelling errors im sory I realy cant type

 

One more thing check you wireing harness for shorts thats probablu what blew the resistor in the first place

look in the first pic at the top left corner i se something wrong all ready

 

Just for technical accuracy, that was a capacitor that bit the dust in his ECU, not a resistor. Plus you can't just say buy a new resistor/capacitor since they have different values resistance/capacitance values. On the back of that cap it should say what it is, get the same one at Radio Shack.

Anyway, you're referring to that ground in the pic... that's not OEM though..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKcivicEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just for technical accuracy, that was a capacitor that bit the dust in his ECU, not a resistor. Plus you can't just say buy a new resistor/capacitor since they have different values resistance/capacitance values. On the back of that cap it should say what it is, get the same one at Radio Shack.

Anyway, you're referring to that ground in the pic... that's not OEM though..?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know but i was having a brain fart
still what ever the ground leads to could have probably caused a voltage spike