How much nitrous?? if any
Hey guys... I was wondering if i could go with a nitrous setup that would give me a little more power but would not harm the motor..
Im not looking for anything serious... just a little bottle and setup that i could use at the track on weekends.. Maybe something that sprays into the intake or something??... I dont now much about nitrous...
how much $$ and how many ponies could i expect??
Here is wut im runnin..
B18c5
.25 overbore CTR pistons
mild port and polish headwork
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
skunk 2 Im and 70mm TB
AEM CAI
AEM fuel rail & regulator
walbro fuel pump
not sure wich but.... either DTR, Hytechor SMSP race header
full 2.5 exhaust
full msd setup
Im not looking for anything serious... just a little bottle and setup that i could use at the track on weekends.. Maybe something that sprays into the intake or something??... I dont now much about nitrous...
how much $$ and how many ponies could i expect??
Here is wut im runnin..
B18c5
.25 overbore CTR pistons
mild port and polish headwork
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
skunk 2 Im and 70mm TB
AEM CAI
AEM fuel rail & regulator
walbro fuel pump
not sure wich but.... either DTR, Hytechor SMSP race header
full 2.5 exhaust
full msd setup
Nitrous is cheating in my opinon but if you want it then do what you want its your car. Nitrous is usually run though the intake mani. as far as how much can you use without damage is gonna depend on the amount of tunning you do. Gotta add fuel and reduce the timing. Now for the amount of power you could gain 1 shot=1 horsepower. A 50shot would be like 50 horsies.
anyone else??
how much does a setup up like the one mention cost$$??
and is there an easier setup than that, like spraying into the intake?
how much does a setup up like the one mention cost$$??
and is there an easier setup than that, like spraying into the intake?
Nitrous is tuning dependent, the quality of your set-up is much more important the the amount of nitrous used. So many people just throw a dry kit on, get bored swap to the big jet(s) then say nitrous is dangorus or unreliable. If you want to spray you need to do some solid research of your own. You will need contol of you fuel and timing for optimum results. You shoud run a purge kit (esp. in a cooler damp climate), you live in canada you will need a bottle heater N2O needs to be at a certin temp for optimum performance.
I could go on but
is calling
I could go on but
is calling
A purge is more for racing and show in my personal opinion, I have one on my car but never use it on the street. A bottle heater is a good investment, especially in our climate but you won't damage your engine without one. It will just run richer than it should and not make as much power as it should but it will be safe.
All you need to do is purchase a nitrous kit like NX or ZEX or NOS, I'd personally recomend a wet system over dry. Check out the classifieds here and ebay, you'll see hundreds of them and the prices. You didn't say what kind of tuning you're using but that is critical on an engine running higher compression and agressive timing. You'd probably be safe running a 50 shot, maybe even 75. Visit the NOS or Nitrous Xpress websites and read up on what nitrous is and isn't. It's scary because few people take the time to learn about it and understand it. I've run it in my cars for years with no real problems to speak of.
For me I like having a nice strong all motor setup for daily driving and reliability, I like having the nitrous for those times that guys with bigger and more expensive cars figure they're going to put a beating on me because I'm "driving one of those little Honda's". Great fun at the track.
All you need to do is purchase a nitrous kit like NX or ZEX or NOS, I'd personally recomend a wet system over dry. Check out the classifieds here and ebay, you'll see hundreds of them and the prices. You didn't say what kind of tuning you're using but that is critical on an engine running higher compression and agressive timing. You'd probably be safe running a 50 shot, maybe even 75. Visit the NOS or Nitrous Xpress websites and read up on what nitrous is and isn't. It's scary because few people take the time to learn about it and understand it. I've run it in my cars for years with no real problems to speak of.
For me I like having a nice strong all motor setup for daily driving and reliability, I like having the nitrous for those times that guys with bigger and more expensive cars figure they're going to put a beating on me because I'm "driving one of those little Honda's". Great fun at the track.
I personally would not Juice that particular motor with nitrous because the compression is a too high to. Your compression is deff. Above 12.2:1 and its is stock internals that your working with. If you have to put a hit on the car b16 pistons would have been a better option to go with I have personally worked on cars with that same setup with b16pisions and the motor felt really good with the shot. We used up to an 80shot on the cars and after about a 1yr or little less we pulled the motor out and apart and everything looked fine. Remember to retard your timing when you are using NOS. I believe its 2deg per 50shot.
nitrous IS NOT cheating.. i hate hearing people say that. until the nhra and every other racing sanctioning body out law it, its not CHEATING. people that tend to call it cheating, are usually the ones that are getting beat by it.
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Spraying on 12.8:1 C/R is not wise. If you have not already installed the CTR pistons buy something else, if you did ????????????? Even if your not going to spray the CTR piston is a horrible design.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Natural Aspirations »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spraying on 12.8:1 C/R is not wise. If you have not already installed the CTR pistons buy something else, if you did ????????????? Even if your not going to spray the CTR piston is a horrible design.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can spray at much higher CR's than that, the timing and octane just need to match
You can spray at much higher CR's than that, the timing and octane just need to match
there are a lot of good points in this thread as well as a lot of opinion that holds no ground....
as far as it being a bad idea to spray on a high compression motor i disagree....you will be fine as long as your dealing with a competent tuner and the system is set up correctly....the reason people have the misconception that you cant is because the margin of error gets slimmer the more nitrous you spray or the higher compression the motor is...
there are a few options for nitrous delivery but they boil down to two groups...wet and dry...a dry system has a single or dual fogger spraying nitrous alone through the intake tract...it also relies on a fuel pressure safety switch to boost the fuel pressure to give adequate amounts of fuel....a wet system feeds nitrous and gas together through the intake tract and is more desirable then a dry system because with a dry system your injectors hold full responsibility for fuel delivery and you are limited to the amount of nitrous you can spray...with a wet system you have an independent fuel source meaning your injectors can spray at their normal rates, but the extra fuel needed for the nitrous can be delivered through the fuel jet in the nitrous setup...this allows for more nitrous to be used since the fuel is being delivered through a seperate adjustable source.....the reason people often opt for a wet system over dry is because with a wet system the nitrous is fed with an independant fuel source...so in the event that one of your injectors fail you dont end up getting detonation and burning a piston...also a wet kit is ideal for people running manual trannys(pretty much all honda guys)...when at the track people often do full throttle shifts...in the event that you miss shift and hit the fuel cutoff fuel is still being delivered through the seperate source and there is less of a chance that you blow the motor....the domestic guys have something called a window switch...what this does is it runs on rpm pills....meaning that the nitrous will only come on when 1.you are at WOT and 2...when you are within your desired RPM range....so if your rev limit is 8200 RPM then the window switch will cut nitrous delivery off at 8k so you can safely full throttle shift...this is more for the people running dry setups but can still be useful for every setup...you also dont want to spray nitrous in your high gears or below a certain RPM...the reason being this could cause nitrous to pool up in the intake manifold and cause a IM backfire which can be catastrophic....now im not sure if the import guys have a window switch out or if it is something available in certain tuning software...but it is definitely something to look into..
theres two ways to go about setting up your fuel system with a wet kit...you can feed of the existing tank or install a seperate tank(often filled with higher octane fuel 100+) only for when you opt to spray....i believe dr.disco had a nicely drawn up diagram for the two nitrous fuel setups....
it is a general rule to retard timing 1 degree for every 25 hp you spray as well as go with colder rated spark plugs....
i feel like i missed a few points but if you got any questions feel free to pm me cuz im tired of typing rght now and im sure these basics will at least give you a better idea of what to look for
as far as it being a bad idea to spray on a high compression motor i disagree....you will be fine as long as your dealing with a competent tuner and the system is set up correctly....the reason people have the misconception that you cant is because the margin of error gets slimmer the more nitrous you spray or the higher compression the motor is...
there are a few options for nitrous delivery but they boil down to two groups...wet and dry...a dry system has a single or dual fogger spraying nitrous alone through the intake tract...it also relies on a fuel pressure safety switch to boost the fuel pressure to give adequate amounts of fuel....a wet system feeds nitrous and gas together through the intake tract and is more desirable then a dry system because with a dry system your injectors hold full responsibility for fuel delivery and you are limited to the amount of nitrous you can spray...with a wet system you have an independent fuel source meaning your injectors can spray at their normal rates, but the extra fuel needed for the nitrous can be delivered through the fuel jet in the nitrous setup...this allows for more nitrous to be used since the fuel is being delivered through a seperate adjustable source.....the reason people often opt for a wet system over dry is because with a wet system the nitrous is fed with an independant fuel source...so in the event that one of your injectors fail you dont end up getting detonation and burning a piston...also a wet kit is ideal for people running manual trannys(pretty much all honda guys)...when at the track people often do full throttle shifts...in the event that you miss shift and hit the fuel cutoff fuel is still being delivered through the seperate source and there is less of a chance that you blow the motor....the domestic guys have something called a window switch...what this does is it runs on rpm pills....meaning that the nitrous will only come on when 1.you are at WOT and 2...when you are within your desired RPM range....so if your rev limit is 8200 RPM then the window switch will cut nitrous delivery off at 8k so you can safely full throttle shift...this is more for the people running dry setups but can still be useful for every setup...you also dont want to spray nitrous in your high gears or below a certain RPM...the reason being this could cause nitrous to pool up in the intake manifold and cause a IM backfire which can be catastrophic....now im not sure if the import guys have a window switch out or if it is something available in certain tuning software...but it is definitely something to look into..
theres two ways to go about setting up your fuel system with a wet kit...you can feed of the existing tank or install a seperate tank(often filled with higher octane fuel 100+) only for when you opt to spray....i believe dr.disco had a nicely drawn up diagram for the two nitrous fuel setups....
it is a general rule to retard timing 1 degree for every 25 hp you spray as well as go with colder rated spark plugs....
i feel like i missed a few points but if you got any questions feel free to pm me cuz im tired of typing rght now and im sure these basics will at least give you a better idea of what to look for
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