Charging problem....not really??
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From: wally world next three exits
Here is the scenario. Driving home in my stock 88 CRX Si and the charge light flickers on the dash. I think, great, my lifetime alternator is going out again. I make it home but the light flickered a few more times. I figure I am ok to drive it to work the next day. On the way home, the light pretty much stays on constantly for the 20 mile drive. I get home and check the voltage on the battery and its a bit above 12, which is ok. I still figure it is just easier to take out my lifetime alternator and go get another one.
First step I am going to remove the negative battery cable only to find out it is so loose that it slips right off. I then think this was the cause of my charge light as the negative cable was bouncing around as I was driving. I tighten it up and drive it a couple more days. No problems. Fast forward to today when I roll up to a red light and the car dies. I try to start it for a couple minutes and it is acting like a dead battery. It would barely crank or turn, then it just fired right up. I went home and the battery had nearly 14 V.
WTF could my problem be now?
Modified by schueytenten at 2:42 PM 12/19/2006
First step I am going to remove the negative battery cable only to find out it is so loose that it slips right off. I then think this was the cause of my charge light as the negative cable was bouncing around as I was driving. I tighten it up and drive it a couple more days. No problems. Fast forward to today when I roll up to a red light and the car dies. I try to start it for a couple minutes and it is acting like a dead battery. It would barely crank or turn, then it just fired right up. I went home and the battery had nearly 14 V.
WTF could my problem be now?
Modified by schueytenten at 2:42 PM 12/19/2006
are both cables making good connection on the battery now? what about the wire going to the alternator, check if thats tight.. keep in mind, just because your getting 12v when cold, and 14 when charged does not mean your CCA are not low.
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From: wally world next three exits
Both cables on the battery are nice and tight now. I will check the alternator wire in the morning. Is there a way for me to check the CCA on the battery or do I need to take it to a shop?
check all grounds (top of valve cover, ground to body from neg bat, ground on thermostat housing, and any others)
connector on alt tight? (bolted one, and field plug)
Pos wire tight on both ends (on bat and the end in the fuse box)
check water in bat
and as already stated any auto parts store will check alt and bat for free(in the car, dont remove)
connector on alt tight? (bolted one, and field plug)
Pos wire tight on both ends (on bat and the end in the fuse box)
check water in bat
and as already stated any auto parts store will check alt and bat for free(in the car, dont remove)
Thread Starter
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From: wally world next three exits
I had the battery and alternator tested and they got a clean bill of health all the way around.
Just yesterday, as I rolled up to a signal the car just died. It fired right up but just is a bit annoying as I drive 45 miles to work and would hate to be stranded out in the boonies with my dead CRX.
Could this be the early signs of the main relay going, or possibly the fuel pump?
Just yesterday, as I rolled up to a signal the car just died. It fired right up but just is a bit annoying as I drive 45 miles to work and would hate to be stranded out in the boonies with my dead CRX.
Could this be the early signs of the main relay going, or possibly the fuel pump?
What ever happened with the battery light? Does it still flicker on and off?
Your new symptom could be a relay, once it gets hot enough it loses a connection.. Then once it cools again it works properly.
If your main relay was going out on you, the fuel pump would not prime when turning the ignition switch to 2. Thats the first symptom.
When you turn the key to pos.2 do all the lights on the dash flicker like normal? It could possibly be your starter relay, or still could be a loose ground in the engine bay not making a good connection. I would check those out. Im just throwing ideas out there for ya. GL
Your new symptom could be a relay, once it gets hot enough it loses a connection.. Then once it cools again it works properly.
If your main relay was going out on you, the fuel pump would not prime when turning the ignition switch to 2. Thats the first symptom.
When you turn the key to pos.2 do all the lights on the dash flicker like normal? It could possibly be your starter relay, or still could be a loose ground in the engine bay not making a good connection. I would check those out. Im just throwing ideas out there for ya. GL
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From: wally world next three exits
Thanks. the ideas are much appreciated. I seem to be done with the flickering battery charge light. I was just praying that this would be an easy fix, but it seems to be getting pretty involved. I have a spare new relay at home, maybe I will try and put that in and drive around and see what happens.
No squeeling belt sounds is there? Could be a loose belt not turning the alternator properly.
The light comes on when the engine is about to die also, it might not even be the alternator it might be like an IAC or something and when you come to a stop the car can't keep it's idle and it dies.
The light comes on when the engine is about to die also, it might not even be the alternator it might be like an IAC or something and when you come to a stop the car can't keep it's idle and it dies.
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