This is the first manifold ive built, so bare with me;

The first ones w the T3T4 i sold;





with the 'new' GT30R








HES


Modified by dutchaccord at 9:45 AM 5/5/2007


Modified by dutchaccord at 12:52 AM 6/29/2007

 

Where is your downpipe going to go?

 

im going to reroute the #2 runner so i can squeeze the DP troug. Ill also still need to add the WG flange etc.

Its hard to squeeze all that under the hood

 

Looks nice.

I am building the same style manifold for my Galant VR4.

Like, same turbine outlet angle and everything.

One big TiAL gate being used?

 

just a regular 38mm TiAl yeah

 

nice w/ AC

 

NICE....first manifold you've ever built too?

 

yeah its my first, didnt take the easy route... Just taking your time and not wanting to finish in 1 night is the way to go

I just finished redoing the 2nd runner so ive got more room to run the DP

 

ive always wondered how in the heck do you guys weld all the way around those pipes when they are so close together?

i know they make small cups and whatnot but damn!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive always wondered how in the heck do you guys weld all the way around those pipes when they are so close together?

i know they make small cups and whatnot but damn!</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i always wondered too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats what i always wondered too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They normally just extend the tungsten. It's not that bad, but it sucks when the helmet sometimes "flashes" you because it's such a tight spot. It's very annoying, and has happened to me many times.

 

your work looks awesome so far,but i really think you're defeating the purpose.
the main advantage of a top mount mani is to fit a bigger size downpipe.on an H/F series engine in an Accord or Prelude,using that stock front mount,you'll have a hard time getting any good size downpipe in there with a top mounted turbo.a ramhorn would probably allow the biggest size downpipe.
one other thing is how do you plan to route the outlet pipe from the turbo to the I/C?the way the turbo is clocked now,it exits below the manifold,and will have to somehow cross over to the driver side.is there enough room to clock it so it comes out above the manifold(basically,the outlet pointing towards the radiator),and run the charge pipe right along the rad?
definitely keep us updated though-i'm interested in how it turns out.i did a Prelude a while back,and it was a major PITA fitting everything.
chris


Modified by TeamNextGenChris at 2:46 AM 12/6/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostwerks.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They normally just extend the tungsten. It's not that bad, but it sucks when the helmet sometimes "flashes" you because it's such a tight spot. It's very annoying, and has happened to me many times. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So what you are saying is that you can extend the tungsten as long as its still getting coverage from the sheilding gas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thats what i always wondered too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
common practice is to break the individual runners away from the flanges once mocked up, weld all joints,then weld the runners back to the head flange and collector.
Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_turd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So what you are saying is that you can extend the tungsten as long as its still getting coverage from the sheilding gas?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup. It helps to purge the area before starting the weld. it's worked out well for me at least.

 

good stuff!

 

you cut them all off the head and turbo flange, and weld the tacked runners together, then weld them to the flanges.

 

The reason why i made a topmount is bcs i want to keep AC and the front engine mount. If i were to make a ramhorn i would have no room to fit an airfilter or good flowing DP (bcs of the size of the turbo)

I didnt know that ppl use topmounts to be able to run a big DP, kinda obvious tough. I have a 3" pre bent pipe i want to use as a DP.

Boostpiping is going to run trough the holes the stock airfilterbox (resonator) uses. Its an oval opening thats big enaugh to fit 2 3" pipes. The intercooler (i still need to make) is most likely going to have the intake and outlet on the same side. (passenger side).

The compressor needs to be clocked a lil more til the outlet faces straight down.

Ill take a few more pix to clarify things if u like.


here's a few more pix of the collector:







its going to be rewelded to get a thicker stronger weld.


( i hope my english is somewhat better than that Kuweity guy lol )

 

Pictures of the relocated 2nd runner:









I wanted to put the WG in an angle so it would point the flow a bit more, sadly theres no room to do so :/ i guess this will work to.

Relocating this runner has created a lot of space!

 

Wow....that 2nd runner relocation is a tight fit....good job bro.

Did you place the turbo in the car at first and take measurements in relation to the flange where you wanted it located or what? What measurements did you take in order to know what the manifolds limits were (radiator to motor, etc).

I have yet to make a topmount because noone requested one from me....I just make a ton of logs, mini rams, and such. I'd like to just make one here shortly in order to say I have.

Anything valuable you learned in the process as far as mocking, placement, building goes? Did you work from collector to flange starting from any particular runner? Did you mockup using any flexible hose to visualize what you wanted to do?

Good work though man....real nice for a first effort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
common practice is to break the individual runners away from the flanges once mocked up, weld all joints,then weld the runners back to the head flange and collector.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you ensure the runners still fit after welding. I'd imagine you get alot of movement. Do you jig the runner in some type of fixture?

 

You should have placed the downpipe on the drivers side. That would have made everything much easier when going to fabricate everything... especially the intercooler piping.

I do know the front motor mount is an issue though. So maybe this is why you went the route you went.

 

@RC000E;

I started by welding the 4 elbows on the exh flange, then i welded the collector to 2 of them. This after i placed the turbo (W collector bolted on) in the spot i wanted it to sit. Then it just was a matter of connecting each runner to the collector. Lots of tesfitting in between.

i dont have real pointers on what to do or not to do, just take your time and dont want to finish in one night.

@PrecisionH23a;

I placed the turbo this way bcs the drivers side is the only side that can route the chargepiping, i also can fit a big airfilter (where the battery now sits) Placing the turbo facing the drivers side would have made it easier to make a DP, but i wouldent be able to fit a decent airfilter (dont want to use mesh) AND route the chare piping in a nice way.

 

Very nice.

 

huh...I didn't notice that til you said something about it......you welded the collector to two of the runners.