Well my code 4 came back, CPS sensor........ any ideas? last time it was loose wiring but I double checked all of it and it's all good.
So this would be the CPS sensor itself right, in the the dizzy?
Im sorry Im not exactly fluent with all the workings of all the car parts (hence why no boost for me)
but any ideas, let me know

 

As you already know, code 4 is the TDC sensor. Have you
taken a good look inside the distributor? Any rust?
(Common)

Code 4 is a common failing item-related code. As long as
your PGMFI relay is good, and the charging system is OK,
afraid it's gonna' be a distributor replacement, and take
my word for it, don't go aftermarket!! Replace with OE
ONLY!

 

here you go: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1806096

check the link i posted on the second page, its gonna troubleshoot it for you and tell you wether its the dizzy, the wiring, or the ecu

 

Checking resistance is not a good inspection on the magnetic pick up in the distributor. If it was open or shorted then Ok but it needs an oscilloscope pattern inspection to be sure, it needs to be over 1 volt cranking, it needs to be over 4 volts running. Under 1 volt cranking, the computer will not see the signal and set a code but a resistance test will be Ok, bad test procedure, not everyone can afford a scope so multimeters are the tester of choice, and they are misleading. The other tests only check for a wireing problem from the distributor to the computer connector, thats all it does, when the other guy bypassed the harness with his own wire, of course he will have continuity and the written procedure was wrong or he interpreted it wrong.

Inspecting from the two computer pins only goes from one pin via a wire through the pick up and back to the other pin via another wire, 350 ~ 550 ohms, not a good test but a start. No broken wires. Use your multimeter on an AC volts scale and compare the three sensors, they do not all do the same job and will not give like results but if yours is extremely low then there you go, once again a scope is really needed. I never used a meter so all the readings may be very low, you are just comparing the two good sensors to your unknown sensor.

 

First off, THANKYOU, you guys got back to me QUICK fast.
SO basically, I need to either
A. Attewmpt to troubleshoot my Dizzy
or
B. Replace it

Oh, and I would never go any other way then OEM.......

 

well i just posted with the experience i had. with my very little knowledge and a multimeter i was able to solve the problem. it may not be the best way but it worked out fine for me.

to the op if you could get a known working dizzy it would be a good idea to replace it and make sure its the dizzy. it would suck if you spent the extra money buying a dizzy and then finding out that was not the problem

 

Code 4 is crank position sensor, not Top dead Center Sensor, thats code 8.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civhatch90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
to the op if you could get a known working dizzy it would be a good idea to replace it and make sure its the dizzy. it would suck if you spent the extra money buying a dizzy and then finding out that was not the problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
Bart was JUST at my house with a perfect oBD1 dizzy the day it happened..... unfortunately he sold it to my buddy