UPDATE PROBLEM SOLVED CHECK LAST PAGE

89 crx si stock a6
ecu throws code 4 (crank angle sensor)
both ecu and distributor have been replaced since problem appeared with known good units.
car wont rev past 3k and almost stalls on take off.
it does not do this problem all the time, some days it runs normal some days the check engine light goes on and the car runs like ****.
here is the video so that you can hear the engine
http://s5.photobucket.com/albu...9.flv
any iimput is greatly appreciated i need to fix it. thanks


Modified by civhatch90 at 10:02 AM 11/29/2006

 

Sounds like a distributor problem regardless, your car is not going past 3K RPMs when the CEL is on because it's going into limp mode so that you don't kill your engine. Get a new dizzy or swap in a known good one and see if that clears up the issue.

EDIT: Just noticed that you've tried this already. Nevermind.

 

yeah i know its going into limp mode but it doesnt do it all the time, it hadnt done it for a week and now its back at it again, anyother sensors which could be causing this?

 

sounds like dizzy problems. My crx sounded exactly the same and I had my spark plug wires backwards. check yours

 

yeah but if it was spark plug problem wouldnt it do it all the time and not just randomly?

 

no more imput?

 

Have you recently changed a timing belt? It kind of sounds like it slipped a touth or is just out of time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 65stang90crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you recently changed a timing belt? It kind of sounds like it slipped a touth or is just out of time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2

also, it could be a bad connection at the distributor, cuz that is all the symptoms of a bad crank sensor in your dizzy

 

Check your grounds 2 bro, thought i throw that in there, but the timing is a must.

 

no, i havent done any timing belt work on the car, however after a week of humidity and the car running like ****, the past two days has been sunny and dry and the car isnt throwing the code anymore it runs good. what could be affected by the humidity?

 

Try pressing the dizzy wires at the ECU harness,
there is a possiability, that it might be because of the lose contact of wiring harness with ecu,

that what i have,

 

ok its doing it again and still no idea of what the problem is. my mechanic told me my best bet would be to take it to somebody who has a scanner. does that sound right? any other ideas?

 

haha a scaner?... does obd 0 ring a bell?
it does sound like a timing problem though

 

whats the status on the timing? get a timing light on it asap...it sounds out of time badly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civhatch90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">89 crx si stock a6
ecu throws code 4 (crank angle sensor)
both ecu and distributor have been replaced since problem appeared with known good units.
car wont rev past 3k and almost stalls on take off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I noticed you replaced the distributor cap, But did you also replace the distributor rotor? Also when a friend of mine had a similar sounding problem with his Honda Accord it was a spark plug loose and just needed to be tightened down. Hope this helps!

 

yeah the entire distributor was changed. also, how could the timing be off for 3-4 days and then correct itself for another 3-4 days and then be off again?

 

Who cares, check it anyways. It's like when something is wrong with your car and then you call over some expert mechanic and it all of the sudden runs perfectly...there's no real explanation for stuff like that.

 

I'll be able to give you all the information you require over the phone.
Call me, we can fix this. Phone # is o the rywire homepage. If you want to do me a favor, call after 5pm Pacific time Much less busy for me.
Working over the phone is best, I can make sure you understand what i'm talking about That guarantees success.

I always feel bad for people that have the same problem for weeks on end posting here and don't get the info to fix it.

"take it to someone with a code scanner" LOL OBD0 flashes the code... you already know what it is. Don't talk to that mechanic ever again please. If he knew what he was doing he could give you 4-5 troubleshooting methods to narrow down the actual problem. Cars are not that complex.

First thing is to check the wiring using a volt meter on the continuity setting. Only 2 wires to test for a Code-4. Really easy.

 

ok i checked for continuity on blu/gr c1 was good, blu/yell c2 was good, orange b10 was good, and there was no continuity on the white b12 wire.
what should i do now?

 

bump

 

A. You can run a new wire between those positions if you wana fix the problem.

B. You can de-pin each position to see why the hell it isn't making a connection.
- and if you don't see anything wrong, the only thing to do is run a new wire.

 

i tried running the wire and when i do so the engine turns over and wont start, gives me code 15 (ignitor). when i remove the wire, code 15 goes away the car starts up right up and continues to throw code 4

 

I had the same problem, but mine turned out to be a loose pin in the dizzy connector I was using.

Check to make sure none of the pins' rubber boots are sticking out any.(even the slightest bit).

Heres a video of what mine was doing-

 

thanks for all the help im gonna go check out some things now

 

hey peter just checked them again and i was confused and checking a wire that was faded and i thought it was white. the originally white wire coming out of the distributor does have continuity