Hi there, this would be my first post in the FI section of HT. I know very very little about FI but im slowly learning as i read through that enormous FAQ posted at the top of the page.

Anyways, I got offered a deal i couldnt pass up. a turbo for $40 bucks.

Garrett/Airesearch TA0301 (T3 Series) -Compressor Trim: 50 -Compressor Housing a/r: .42 -Turbine Housing a/r: .48 -Oil Cooled

here are pics









Now onto my questions. mainly about the turbo itself, stuff i really couldnt find, because i dont know what the hell im searching for.



what are these circled in red? the one on the right looks to be broken..is it important, and is that fixable.



this is the wastegate im assuming? its supposed to have a internal wastegate set to 7psi



This here, is the oil return or feed? it has these on BOTH sides, one on the "wastegate" in question and one on the other. they look the exact same so which one is feed and which one is return side.

im sorry if this is too "noob" for some of you, but i just have no idea and figure it would be easier for me to post this information rather than try to search for it. Thanks in advance guys. Back to the FAQ i go.

 

that turbo is wasted. and if you are b series, is way way way too small

 

d16.

and what do you mean wasted

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by banana hammock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that turbo is wasted. and if you are b series, is way way way too small </TD></TR></TABLE>

How can you tell it's wasted? lol

I've seen junkyard turbos that look way worse than this one bolt up and run perfect.

Anyways...

It's a basic T3 turbo the .42/.48 50 trim is basically the same turbo that a LOT of people run on d-series engines. I believe the 50 trim is good for about 200whp or so? And should give you a great powerband. Spool probably around 4000 or so and pull hard all the way to the redline.

That being said...

The things you have circled in red, the one on the right is normally where a nipple goes that serves as a boost source for the wategate. Super easy to fix, either just plug it up and use a difference source, or tap a barb fitting in.

The other thing on the compressor housing is some sort of bypass valve, I've seen them before but I don't know much about them so I'll let someone else explain that one.

The next picture is of the wastegate actuator, you were correct there.

The last picture is the oil drain. The oil feed is on the oposite side of the drain, the drain is the larger hole.

Hows the shaft play? Check both in and out and up and down.

If it has minimal shaft play then you got a great deal for $40. Worse case scenario you get it rebuilt by blaast for $129 and have a brand new turbo on your hands that will work great on your d-series.

 

no shaft play

the guy paid 160 for it, and couldnt use it, B series and the downpipe he bought wouldnt work

so he cut me a deal being a friend

thanks for the help man. glad you chimed in.

i still have lots of learning/reading to do, but its all getting very confusing


when you say boost source for the wastegate (the broken piece). i thought the wategate was run to a vacuum source off the IM. would that have been a replacement for such vacuum routing? if so then ill just plug that sucker and run the wategate off my spare nipple on my skunk2 manifold

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no shaft play

the guy paid 160 for it, and couldnt use it, B series and the downpipe he bought wouldnt work

so he cut me a deal being a friend

thanks for the help man. glad you chimed in.

i still have lots of learning/reading to do, but its all getting very confusing


when you say boost source for the wastegate (the broken piece). i thought the wategate was run to a vacuum source off the IM. would that have been a replacement for such vacuum routing? if so then ill just plug that sucker and run the wategate off my spare nipple on my skunk2 manifold</TD></TR></TABLE>the wastegate must be connected to a boost source, a nipple on your skunk2 manifold would work because the wastegate would see how much boost is in there and know when to open

that turbo would be FUN on the street on a single cam. you can find cheap t3 manifolds in the classfields as well as injectors/intercoolers to fuel management, the key player in the game of turbos.

 

another question

what is a good way to clean this thing up?

is carb cleaner ok to use? or is it bad for the seals?

my friend who works with me at a toyota dealership said we could hot tank it in the shop.

which would be better? safer? or throw out some options

 

actually another question to add to this...probably my last one while i continue reading up on other things.

how the hell am i supposed to hook up my charge pipes to this thing.



the outlet has no room to put a coupler around it. possibly a part from a mercedes that has one of these on it?

 

You can have the outlet extended. They will just weld it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ZacCarter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can have the outlet extended. They will just weld it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>



thanks guys for all your help. hopefully within the next 4 months ill be boostin away. but gotta get my money saved up for the parts and more for the tune. my dd here, so its gonna be tuned right

 

werd. It is all about the tuner.

 

I have like 3 of those sitting in my garage. I would get a different compressor housing. I bought one off of ebay for about 10 shipped. That way you don't have to mess with the internal bypass valve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snafubmx234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have like 3 of those sitting in my garage. I would get a different compressor housing. I bought one off of ebay for about 10 shipped. That way you don't have to mess with the internal bypass valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>



Might be a good idea.

If you need a cheap manifold I'm selling one check my sig.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snafubmx234 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have like 3 of those sitting in my garage. I would get a different compressor housing. I bought one off of ebay for about 10 shipped. That way you don't have to mess with the internal bypass valve. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ok. will any t3 compressor housing work? or do i have to get a specific one?

ej1 pmed

 

i have a few of those junker turbos laying around, if you need parts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by banana hammock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a few of those junker turbos laying around, if you need parts </TD></TR></TABLE>

ill let you know if i need anything.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92ehatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will any t3 compressor housing work? or do i have to get a specific one? </TD></TR></TABLE>

up for this question..i swear its my last for a bit

 

You should really go out and buy Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell if you are interested in FI. I thought I knew enough to build a solid boosted D series untill I read that book, it's pretty much the Boost Bible. Another one is the High Performance Honda Builder's Handbook by Joe Pettitt. Another great book that as lots of useful tuning info.

 

That looks liek a benz T3. The internal wastegate is good and is easy to convert to an external dump. Mine goes up to 13 psi, but its because my diaphram is leaky. Apparentley it has a exhaust wheel that has a major diam comparable to a garett stage 3 wheel, which means lightining fast spool. I get full boost with mine by 2500rpms. I even reached 10 psi by 1900rpm in 5th gear once. Top end power is ok, but this turbo is awesome for autocross/city driving. Ditch teh compressor cover/bypass valva and buy astandard .42 AR housing, or better yet, upgrade to a .60 housing/wheel and have an awesome street turbo for a d series.
You can use any .42 housing, saab, volvo ones will work great. You can use the v band for the downpipe,m but on mine I ended up cutting everything off from the 4 bolt flange and a 2.5" pipe will slip right in.
The pipe comign off the wastegate is an external dump. to convert it you weld up the wastegate port shut and drill a large hole in the wastegate blockoff plate and weld on your downpipe. you might gain a few whp, the design of the wastegate port is very bad. BUt its probably nto worth the trouble

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXdan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That looks liek a benz T3. The internal wastegate is good and is easy to convert to an external dump. Mine goes up to 13 psi, but its because my diaphram is leaky. Apparentley it has a exhaust wheel that has a major diam comparable to a garett stage 3 wheel, which means lightining fast spool. I get full boost with mine by 2500rpms. I even reached 10 psi by 1900rpm in 5th gear once. Top end power is ok, but this turbo is awesome for autocross/city driving. Ditch teh compressor cover/bypass valva and buy astandard .42 AR housing, or better yet, upgrade to a .60 housing/wheel and have an awesome street turbo for a d series.
You can use any .42 housing, saab, volvo ones will work great. You can use the v band for the downpipe,m but on mine I ended up cutting everything off from the 4 bolt flange and a 2.5" pipe will slip right in.
The pipe comign off the wastegate is an external dump. to convert it you weld up the wastegate port shut and drill a large hole in the wastegate blockoff plate and weld on your downpipe. you might gain a few whp, the design of the wastegate port is very bad. BUt its probably nto worth the trouble
[img]http://www.redpepperracing.com/gallery/d/162704-2/DSC00684.JPG[/im]</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man

and everyone else. now to save my money up.