I'm looking into changing out the rotors and pads on my 92 CX. Anyone know of a write up anywhere that I could follow in order to do so?

 

i think you need a 12mm for the slide pins, a 14mm for the caliper bracket bolts, channel locks or something to push the piston back, and some sil-glyde to relube the pins. Oh and a impact screwdriver to remove the rotor-holding screws. A little heat works great on them as they tend to rust and will strip if you dont use an impact driver. I can't find a how to right now...i know someone else will chime in with that.

I suggest some sorta book even a chiltons/haynes would help but not as good as a factory helms service manual

 

Brake Jobs are one of the easiest things to do. Another tip for compressing the piston of the caliper is to take a C-Clamp and the old pad and sandwich the pad between the clam and the piston so you can compress it evenly.

 

here's a trick i fould out when taking out the 4head screw without stripper it imma go see if i got the camera

 

drill the screws out if you can't get them out......they're useless.

Honda used them to keep the rotors from falling off at the assembly line. Your wheel holds the rotor to the hub anyways. Its up to you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadEnd9009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">drill the screws out if you can't get them out......they're useless.

Honda used them to keep the rotors from falling off at the assembly line. Your wheel holds the rotor to the hub anyways. Its up to you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

true but without the screws its brings that unwanted shaking but heres wat i used works everytime

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99FBPSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake Jobs are one of the easiest things to do. Another tip for compressing the piston of the caliper is to take a C-Clamp and the old pad and sandwich the pad between the clam and the piston so you can compress it evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont ever compress the piston with the pad in there, you could crack the pad or even snap it tin two (ive seen it done). If you just compress the piston its self that will do the trick it can only go in and out so you dont have to worrie about it moving.

 

yeah either use that method for the set screw or the impact driver but make damn sure you use a P3 phillips sized bit; if you use a P2 or P1 you'll strip if for sure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20EP3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont ever compress the piston with the pad in there, you could crack the pad or even snap it tin two (ive seen it done). If you just compress the piston its self that will do the trick it can only go in and out so you dont have to worrie about it moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But you're going to be throwing the pad out anyways so might as well put it to good use.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboi86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">true but without the screws its brings that unwanted shaking </TD></TR></TABLE>

What sort of "unwanted shaking" are you referring to? The screws serve no purpose other than to hold the rotor in place while the wheel is off. They aren't needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by k20EP3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dont ever compress the piston with the pad in there, you could crack the pad or even snap it tin two (ive seen it done). If you just compress the piston its self that will do the trick it can only go in and out so you dont have to worrie about it moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats why he said the OLD pad <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What sort of "unwanted shaking" are you referring to? The screws serve no purpose other than to hold the rotor in place while the wheel is off. They aren't needed. </TD></TR></TABLE>
true. the screws serve no other purpose. on none of my vehicles OR vehicles i do brakes on at the shop have i ever reinstalled the screws. never had an issue

 

I never reinstall the rotor screws. I have no shimmy or vibrations at all on my 97 dx coupe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What sort of "unwanted shaking" are you referring to? The screws serve no purpose other than to hold the rotor in place while the wheel is off. They aren't needed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know but it always shake for my car when braking and when i put the screws on it stoped so idk

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmboi86 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dont know but it always shake for my car when braking and when i put the screws on it stoped so idk</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's possible your rotors weren't seated properly the first time, but missing screws definitely won't cause any problems whatsoever.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's possible your rotors weren't seated properly the first time, but missing screws definitely won't cause any problems whatsoever. </TD></TR></TABLE>
its more likley it was all in his head

if the rotors werent seated then the wheel wasnt seated. because the wheel makes contact with the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its more likley it was all in his head

if the rotors werent seated then the wheel wasnt seated. because the wheel makes contact with the rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, exactly, but perhaps somehow they didn't seat properly the first time, causing a slight wobble when the wheel was installed. The more likely scenario is the first one you mentioned, though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99FBPSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake Jobs are one of the easiest things to do. Another tip for compressing the piston of the caliper is to take a C-Clamp and the old pad and sandwich the pad between the clam and the piston so you can compress it evenly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Before doing it for the first time i thought it would be a tuff job but now i do it myself all the time and its a breeze.Pick up a helms manual