Okay, I'm hoping that maybe someone out there has experiences these problems when doing a swap and can shed some light on my situation. First off, once started, the car runs fine and gets about 31-32 mpg consistently.

Here are the issues:

-fuel pump runs nonstop when key is in ON position
-starts hard. I only have to crank it onces, but it kind of gurgles for a few seconds before catching...after that it seems perfect.

Well, that's pretty much it. Any help is appreciated!

Fred

 

question..do you have an aftermarket flywheel in there?

 

Not that I know of...I left everything internal alone for the swap, so flywheel, clutch etc should be stock. But, who knows, if I got a modded engine from somewhere in Japan...?

There's a couple other things that have come up as well. Not major issues, but annoying nonetheless. I know it never did this when I put it in storage last winter: at about 7k rpms...even when warmed up, it just kills. Feels like it's hitting the rev limiter....but 7k? Seems low...

It leaks some coolant out the driver's side somewhere too. I haven't had a chance to track it down yet, but I'm not sure where it's coming from. Any thoughts?

Fred

 

7k fuel cut eh?

SURE it's warmed up? And did you fill it with enough oil?

I know it will cut at 7k if it doenst have enough oil pressure or is still cold......

 

it should hit rev limiter at 8200 rpm. your prolly got something worong

 

i have a shaved factory flywheel, and my car does the same thing, gurgles upon startup.... just started doing this recently. only does this if its been sitting for a good 5+ hours.

anybody know what it could be? tired starter motor? something else?!

its starting to bug me...

 

AUTOMATIC ECU...have a nice day

Manual rev limit hits at 8200
yes i know i have a damn Auto one.!!!
thats been chipped to manual spec by yours truly eg6ajk.


[Modified by Giuseppe, 2:30 AM 5/10/2002]

 

"It leaks some coolant out the driver's side somewhere too. I haven't had a chance to track it down yet, but I'm not sure where it's coming from. Any thoughts?"

the coolant on the driver side would indicate that your water pump and or the gasket is bad. you should always replace the water pump and timing belt, you can do it while it is the car, just harder thats all. good luck


[Modified by revhardracing, 10:14 AM 5/10/2002]

 

Mine does the same thing if its not warmed up good enough cuts off at 7k, then after it is warm I can take it up to 8k. I thought the auto rev limit was 7600.

 

I have a few questions for you guys. On the same thought. I just dropped a b16a into my 91 si hatch. I have a little of the start up problem. But I am wondering about coolent leakage by the front lefthand corner where the blockmeets the head. Kinda by the s/n of the head gasket. Do your b16a's leaka little is that spot. Also i have a part throttle stumble, if i am crusing at a constent speed my car kinda stumbles alittle untill I push the gas down about a 1/4 of the way. Then it takes off like normal.

On a different note how far off our your tachs ? I have an auto ecu but I have yet to hit my rev limiter. I can peg the tach way above 8k what is up with this

 

I replaced the water pump and timing belt when I did the swap...they have less than 3k miles on them, so I don't think it's coming form there.

And the times it hit the 7k rev limit, it was after I'd driven halfway home from work (about 10 miles on the highway), so it should be warmed up enough just fine. I got the whole setup as a package deal, so it's a manual ecu, not auto. It never did it before this week either. And today, it stopped. Maybe it's an oil thing, I'll have to do an oil change soon anyways...

Any other insights into the hard startup? It seems like the battery is low, but then it kicks in all of a sudden. The battery is fairly new, and it runs just fine otherwise.

Fred

 

My B16 does that too... hard startup. It's got the stock flywheel also.

Your fuel pump should NOT run constantly. It should shut off after a couple of seconds if you don't actually start the car. If I were you I'd test for a faulty ECU, since I'm pretty sure this is an ECU controlled function.

The hard start is probably caused by a drop in fuel pressure. Try priming the pump for 1-2 seconds before starting; that seemed to work on mine for a while


[Modified by raene, 6:47 PM 5/10/2002]

 

for everybody thats having a hard time cold starting the b16's, what is your compression like?

mine was 210 across the board warm, havent done a cold test yet. im hoping its not due to the rings starting to go... otherwise its CTR piston time

 

AFAIK, the 2-3 second fuel pressure increase for startup is run off the main relay, which was my first thought. I tested that initially and evenr replaced it and it made no difference either. I'll have to check the ECU somehow, but in the middle of WI, B16A ECUs aren't easy to come by to swap out

I'll be doing a compression test tomorrow when I do my tuneup, just to make sure everything is within spec and post the results here...

Fred

 

Ok, skipped on the compression test, cause I don't think that's the problem. Still need to do an oil change yet, but I replaced the cap, rotor and spark plugs today. Was going to do the plug wires, but not much locally in WI Any recommendations for plug wires? Not anything too fancy mind you.

Ok, so the 7k redline thing is gone, pulls past 8k without a sputter now. The weird startup thing is still there though. I think I may have a fuel injector that's running nonstop once the key is in the ON position though...doesn't sound like the fuel pump. It's definitely coming from the engine bay along the fuel line...so what other moving parts are there in there? Does the FPR have anything that would make noise? It's kind of like a constant metal whirring noise, though high pitched. Not a scraping noise at all. Any thoughts?

Fred

 

FPR wouldn't make noise, no. Compression test on my B16A was something between 180-190 across the board (can't remember at the moment). I'm not too sure about that stuck fuel injector idea... you'd be able to smell it big-time if it were putting out that much gas, and the mileage would also really suck.

 

Well, what are my other options? It's definitely coming from right along the fuel rail...what else is there? If it's only stuck partially open, could it do this? What about some wiring problem that causing them to just keep running when it's in the ON position?

Fred

 

At this point, I'm as stumped as you...

 

Ok, I tried it without the fuel injectors plugged in, and that stopped the noise from the engine bay...but the fuel pump was still going, so I think my problem is there still. It has to be a wiring issue....but I can't figure out what. I've traced some of the wiring before and came up emptyhanded. The ECU doesn't throw any codes either, so it sees nothing wrong. What are the chanes my fuel pump is shot?

Fred

 

Pretty low, I'd say. If you can hear it running, what makes you think it's gone? If you don't mind spending a couple bucks you could get a B&M fuel pressure gauge and install that - that'll tell you what the fuel pressure is at. If the fuel pump's going, you should see dips in pressure every now and again.

 

Well, about the only thing wrong with the car is that the fuel pump runs nonstop. Can you think of any possible causes? I can't find anything for the life of me...

Fred

 

No clue... sorry

Except maybe there's a break/short in the electrical line causing a power feed to the pump continuously...