Im a bit old school in that I like big displacment, and big carbs, but Im not ignorant or not completely ignorant. I fell in love with sprot compacts a few years back and it seems to fit my style. Here is my question.

I see and have seen others go with duel webber carbs on there honda/acura's but how about use of 2bbl or 4bbl carbs like the old school intakes like the Offy for the 2.3 ford (pinto) that let you use a 4 bbl carb on the 2.3l inline 4cyl engine. would there be any benefit to use of a custom intake to do this on a B18a1 vs some aftermarket intake EFI unit and larger injectors/fuel pump. I can have a friends shop fab me up an intake to take the 4bbl Holley carbs but what CFM should I go with for a stock engine til more power can be made. I dont want to cram a 1100 dominator on it as Im sure it would bog the engine greatly but how about a 450 or 350 CFM carb.

Or should I just not waste time and just go over the counter on efi parts.

 

You looking to race in BOTI, NOPI, or anything? What type of car / motor?

 

it has been done by few on honda-tech. you should search for the thread

 

why try to re-invent the wheel ??

 

if your gonna run carbs use the weber's otherwise run efi...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Enzo-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your gonna run carbs use the weber's otherwise run efi...</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.. if your gonna run carbs.. WEBERS are the way to go... but just stick with the EFI....

 

i believe a guy on here ..(snowseeker) had a thread on his build..with a holley domniator 4berreal carb.. on a b20/vtec

 

search username snowseeker

 

Why spend hours re-jeting a carb when you can spend minute's on EFI for a re-tune . Just giving you a hard time, you should really look into giving Bisi a pm and asking him for some info

Frankie

 

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

 

He didn't put a Dominator on it, probably some sort of HP 4-barrel. A Dominator is a very large device. Its definaltey doable, but you can get better metering accuracy with a set of DCOEs or Dellorto DHLAs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0bd1_Kanobe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why spend hours re-jeting a carb when you can spend minute's on EFI for a re-tune . Just giving you a hard time, you should really look into giving Bisi a pm and asking him for some info

Frankie</TD></TR></TABLE>It doesn't take hours to rejet a carb if you a have a bunch of jets and a wideband o2. On a Weber DCOE you can change every main jet, air corrector, and emulsion tube in around 5 minutes. If sized large enough, a good carb setup WILL make more peak power than a good fuel injection setup--the carbs will lose out in transitional periods like low end and midrange. But peak power the carb will win provided the choke is large enough--why do you think Bisi makes the power he does?

 

will def look into those posts, not sure why Im a Trail user, I hope that can clear up soon as I will be posting more as the project gets closer to the build and out of the planning phase. Its allways better to make sure you know what your doing before you do it, lol but as we know things change real fast.

I am to look for Bisi and the snow guy plus that link, will read them with viggor.

My build is only specific on two parts for the end result, and how I get there doesnt matter, but I do like carbs vs efi.

1. Car must be able to run in the 5s on the 1/8th mile or faster 6s will be a great start.
2. Car must run a TRUE 10.5" tire.

The reason for the speed is to win naturally, but the 10.5" tire or True 10.5 as its phrased at one of the tracks I run, is a Class and is dominated by RWD cars. That track I am talking about, I am the only FWD driver that shows up, and I get lots of people wanting to try and best me to show off to there buddies (rednecks) that those pesky 4cyl cars are for kids and going to school.

Its time to bring a bit of light on that town and make some polite waves.

but for now tis bed time, I drive a dump truck and it broke down twice today, one brake on the drop axle locked up, and I blew my clutch out at quittin time.

 

given enough posts and time, you will not be a trial user for long.

 

to run 6's let alone 5's in the 1/8 , your going to have to make a lot of power...

but if those are the times your looking for then i take it boost is the easier way to go.. and to run a carbed set up if its blow thru u will bee to "mod" the carbs meaning the bowls need to be pressurized...

if its a suck thru then you wont need to mod it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It doesn't take hours to rejet a carb if you a have a bunch of jets and a wideband o2. On a Weber DCOE you can change every main jet, air corrector, and emulsion tube in around 5 minutes. If sized large enough, a good carb setup WILL make more peak power than a good fuel injection setup--the carbs will lose out in transitional periods like low end and midrange. But peak power the carb will win provided the choke is large enough--why do you think Bisi makes the power he does?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said I was giving him a hard time, and I've used Mikuni's on my lude before So I know i does not take that long

 

No--I wasn't trying to be a wise guy--and fuel injection is without a doubt easier, I just feel like when a lot of younger import guys hear the word "carburetor" they think of the most inefficient, messy device you can think of. When in reality, the tradeoff is not that big. Fuel injection is definatley more efficient though. Also, alot of people with DCOEs/Mikunis or Dellortos never take the time to fully optimize the carb--they leave it at "seems to run well enough"--if you really take the time to do it--you can get a good sidedraft carb to be close to fuel injection in driveabilty and economy. To really optimize a carb though, it does take alot of time, but basic jetting to get in the ballpark is easy and can be done pretty quickly. I just think its fun to mess with carbs--plus the sensations like the sounds--and having to learn out of necessity how it operates and what jet affects what rpm band.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16dcoe45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No--I wasn't trying to be a wise guy--and fuel injection is without a doubt easier, I just feel like when a lot of younger import guys hear the word "carburetor" they think of the most inefficient, messy device you can think of. When in reality, the tradeoff is not that big. Fuel injection is definatley more efficient though. Also, alot of people with DCOEs/Mikunis or Dellortos never take the time to fully optimize the carb--they leave it at "seems to run well enough"--if you really take the time to do it--you can get a good sidedraft carb to be close to fuel injection in driveabilty and economy. To really optimize a carb though, it does take alot of time, but basic jetting to get in the ballpark is easy and can be done pretty quickly. I just think its fun to mess with carbs--plus the sensations like the sounds--and having to learn out of necessity how it operates and what jet affects what rpm band.</TD></TR></TABLE>

totally agree with you on that.. there is no other sound better then hearing a set of DCOE carbs coming at you...
i grew up with mikuni's and webers so i know what they are can do...
we ran 10.4 with a blow thru carb set up with weber 45's...
and yes they can be a pain but after years of playing with then its like second nature, my father and tune/sync then by ear.....

 

I had a 85 Lude with stock head, Web cam and mikuni's, with a custom header and exaust and my car ran 14.1's consistently not bad for a 12valve single cam I think!!!! Bisi inspired me......LOL