ok so it sounds like I spun a crank or rod bearing, and because I'm a poor college student I'm going to try and fix this myself. I took off the oil pan and looked for metal shavings and didnt see any, sooo I decided I'm going to take the engine out and take the head off which will hopefully let me see somethign wrong. I was just wondering if anyone has any tips or helpfull suggestions for pulling a h22 out of a 4th gen prelude, I have an engine pick and stand at my disposal, so what exactly do I need to unscrew/ take off other than the engine mounts? I looked for a how-to but couldn't find one.

well im off to autozone to buy a 92-96 prelude book and some gloves

 

well my first tip would be do not waste your money on an autozone chiltons manual. they are useless. you will NEED a helms factory service manual. everything else is fairly simple just tedious

 

^^^ agreed.. worst 14 dollars ive spent yet.

 

...or pay $5 on 92lude.com for the manual.

 

I just pulled my cylinder head off. The most tedious part was getting the stupid crank bolt off...in the end I had to purchase the pulley holder and use alot of leverage with a long pipe on the breaker bar to break that bastard loose. Other than that the most annoying part is all the stupid connectors that you have to disconnect and what not.

Purchase the Helms manual and you should be ok. If you don't want to spend the $68 on it just look around the net and you can find the PDF files for it. I've found them before and they are free.

 

thanks for the advice I took one look at that autozone book and bought an airfreshener and some degreaser instead. the only part im worried about is getting the transmission off. I'm trying to replace the bottom end with a new (used) h22 shortblock, so i need that part out.

the most advanced thing i've ever done on my car was putting in coilovers and i found an online photo step by step for that. so im kinda wondering if im going to be able to do this. I know I have all the tools to do it, just no clue how.

hopefully the helm's manuel will clear this up for me.

 

just follow the helms steps... setting the timing of the motor is the most IMPORTANT thing otherwise you'll cost yourself more $$$

you may be better off doing a H22 longblock swap, lots of writeups for that.

 

remove the crank pulley before you remove the engine and tranny as a whole. That extra 2-3 inches will save you lots of grief.

remove the rear mount bracket in its entirety. I think it's 1 bolt on the block 3 bolts on the tranny, and one long bolt through the rubber mount.... remove it ALL, take out the bracket, then remove engine...

i wasted a few hours of my life and high blood pressure from that rear bracket getting in the way.

this is H23a1 by the way.. should be the same for h22.

good luck!

 

Thinking about pulling my engine too (H22, SH), but reading through Helms, there seem to be all kinds of extra steps. Might make sense after I get going, but it doesn't on paper...

1) Do I need to remove the center beam, if I'm gonna lift the engine out?

2) I have a DC Sports 4-2-1, can't I just separate the two parts of it, instead of removing the entire exhaust pipe?

3) Taking all the engine brackets apart, not just taking out the center bolt - is that necessary?

Any help?

 

pull the whole engine with tranny out. then it is easy to bolt the tranny to the new shortblock. Unscrew the FRONT mount not the rear. It'll give you more room to swing the engine in the engne bay.

 

my suggestion would be to just swap the longblock because labor and parts cost might be roughly about the same. and its possible since you are not to sure about what you are doing. not having precision or timing correct and screw up alot of other things will cost you even more and more downtime. since you are in OC. i know a shop that sells jdm H22 longblocks for 900-1000. i paid 1000 for mine. very easy to pull out. just pull it w/ the transmission and unbolt the tranny clutch and such while its out and install everything and throw it all in at once.

thats what i think. i know its hard being a student with no money, but its well-worth the time and money for better and more reliable results!!

pulling the motor is pretty simple. just gotta know what you gotta remove or move to get the engine out. its really those 4 long motor mount bolts that holds the motor in. other than that, shifter cables. unplug the harness plugs. unhook some vaccuum hoses and if you got bad memory used marking tape and mark it. axles. half-shaft. and that should be about it!!


oh and header and intake duh!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LOC714 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or pay $5 on 92lude.com for the manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Or just download the pdf here.

 

You can take the head off without pulling the engine, just like that pic shows, If you took the oil pan off and there is no metal shaving there, there is a cover that should come out , inspect that as well, maybe your shaving are sitting on top of it. remove your oil pickup and look for shaving there. I would also open the oil filter. What makes you think you spun a bearing? What kind of noise is it?, Did you run it low on oil?. Over revd? If you pull the head, all you will see is the top of the pistons, if you want to see how your pistons look, just pull the spark plugs and look in. If after all that you still dont see anything wrong then I would think about pulling the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LOC714 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...or pay $5 on 92lude.com for the manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that doesnt work unless you have a laptop computer. I got my online helms for free, but I want to buy the actuall paper manual. Its so much easier to navigate.

 

the major work is with the wiring harness and vacuum lines on the intake mani...leave the harness on the engine and just disconnect the connectors on the shock pass. shock tower. i would label everything you unplug, it will probly save a lot of headache

 

forgot to mention...pull the pan and the cover above that (4 10mm) and shine a flashlight up there and youll see the bottom of your rod caps...if you spun a rod bearing, that rod cap will be noticeably darker than the others