Looking at a car
I'm looking to buy a prelude. I've found a 95 with some mods. Now my question is are these parts good and what kind of power should it be making?
H22a
Type S pistons
KYB AGX adjustable shocks w/Eibach sportline springs
Energy Suspension bushings
OBX front and rear tie bars
Brembo Brakes
Nissin brake master cylinder
RSR ExMag 70mm stainless exhaust
Hondata S100 ECU
MSD 8mm wires
Crane cams stage 3 w/ upgraded valve train
Crane adjustable cam gears
Unorthadox Racing Pulleys
Gator stage 2 axels
Exedy organic clutch
Fidenza light weight flywheel
Neuspeed short throw
Weapon R fuel pressure reg w/ gauge
Bomz CAI
DC 4-2-1 Header
Modified by krayzieboi213 at 9:37 PM 11/19/2006
H22a
Type S pistons
KYB AGX adjustable shocks w/Eibach sportline springs
Energy Suspension bushings
OBX front and rear tie bars
Brembo Brakes
Nissin brake master cylinder
RSR ExMag 70mm stainless exhaust
Hondata S100 ECU
MSD 8mm wires
Crane cams stage 3 w/ upgraded valve train
Crane adjustable cam gears
Unorthadox Racing Pulleys
Gator stage 2 axels
Exedy organic clutch
Fidenza light weight flywheel
Neuspeed short throw
Weapon R fuel pressure reg w/ gauge
Bomz CAI
DC 4-2-1 Header
Modified by krayzieboi213 at 9:37 PM 11/19/2006
yeah i see a few problems with that list
for one there was no type r prelude
another, i'm pretty sure the exmag was 60mm
i would be worried about potiental problems with the underdrive pulleys and the short throw adaptor......might ask for stock pulleys and shifter
and i kinda wonder why weapon r, obx, and bomz are thrown in there with the higher quality parts he has. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, they just seem out of place
why doesn't he list a header?
i would also ask for a dyno slip.....he should have had it tuned, so then you will know exactly how much power it is making......if it wasn't tuned, then run away fast
for one there was no type r prelude
another, i'm pretty sure the exmag was 60mm
i would be worried about potiental problems with the underdrive pulleys and the short throw adaptor......might ask for stock pulleys and shifter
and i kinda wonder why weapon r, obx, and bomz are thrown in there with the higher quality parts he has. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, they just seem out of place
why doesn't he list a header?
i would also ask for a dyno slip.....he should have had it tuned, so then you will know exactly how much power it is making......if it wasn't tuned, then run away fast
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Silver Surfer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i see a few problems with that list
for one there was no type r prelude
another, i'm pretty sure the exmag was 60mm
i would be worried about potiental problems with the underdrive pulleys and the short throw adaptor......might ask for stock pulleys and shifter
and i kinda wonder why weapon r, obx, and bomz are thrown in there with the higher quality parts he has. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, they just seem out of place
why doesn't he list a header?
i would also ask for a dyno slip.....he should have had it tuned, so then you will know exactly how much power it is making......if it wasn't tuned, then run away fast</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though
for one there was no type r prelude
another, i'm pretty sure the exmag was 60mm
i would be worried about potiental problems with the underdrive pulleys and the short throw adaptor......might ask for stock pulleys and shifter
and i kinda wonder why weapon r, obx, and bomz are thrown in there with the higher quality parts he has. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with them, they just seem out of place
why doesn't he list a header?
i would also ask for a dyno slip.....he should have had it tuned, so then you will know exactly how much power it is making......if it wasn't tuned, then run away fast</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i saw what the cheap parts were, that is why i said there was nothing wrong with them, just out of place
are you talking about the euro-r?
and i'd still asked for who tuned it and a dyno slip
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i saw what the cheap parts were, that is why i said there was nothing wrong with them, just out of place
are you talking about the euro-r?
and i'd still asked for who tuned it and a dyno slip
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree i mean how many different ways can you design a CAI or a tie bar for a prelude. and where in the original post did you guys see anything that said type r? i see type s pistons but nothnig that says type r
Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree i mean how many different ways can you design a CAI or a tie bar for a prelude. and where in the original post did you guys see anything that said type r? i see type s pistons but nothnig that says type r
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InvaderTrax »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really? I see a lot of problems with what you said. There may not have been a Type R Prelude, but there is still a H22 R. A short shifter adapter can be removed easily and at any time (as long as you can take the console off), so he doesn't need to ask for the stock shifter because it's still there. As for those cheap parts, did you notice what they were? The tie bars and CAI are all the same, generic or name brand. Can't comment on the FPR though</TD></TR></TABLE>
Umm, No there is no such thing as a H22 R. There is a Accord Euro-R wagon and that's it no Prelude R. Nor do I even think the R is denoted in that H22 stamp. As for power expectations, with that header you'd be lucky to be around 210, 215ish whp tuned. Now if you had a real header like a SMSP you could probaly add double digit horsepower to that figure....
Umm, No there is no such thing as a H22 R. There is a Accord Euro-R wagon and that's it no Prelude R. Nor do I even think the R is denoted in that H22 stamp. As for power expectations, with that header you'd be lucky to be around 210, 215ish whp tuned. Now if you had a real header like a SMSP you could probaly add double digit horsepower to that figure....
It did say Type R, it was a miss print, I meant Type S so I changed it. I also forgot to list the header so I've added that. The guy wants 8g for it. It has been dynoed tuned and produced like 219whp. To me that seemed kind of low but I'm new into this honda thing so I was curious.
power sounds about right from what ive seen, it would make more with a quality header and another tune, but 8g is too much, dont pay over 5 for a 95 unless its an amazing car, with like 30k miles too. I see a lil old lady weekly who only drives her lude to my casino in nice weather, 95 se with 41k on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krayzieboi213 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It did say Type R, it was a miss print, I meant Type S so I changed it. I also forgot to list the header so I've added that. The guy wants 8g for it. It has been dynoed tuned and produced like 219whp. To me that seemed kind of low but I'm new into this honda thing so I was curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
219whp is pretty damn good for a H22. Also there is still a lot of headroom there for you to make more power. For instance you can up that compression a little more with flat valves, thin headgasket, milling the block etc. You can also do some work on your manifold and throttle body, perhaps a Euro-R or your worked stock IM. Also you can upgrade that header etc. etc. The power sounds good, it'd just be worried about longevity, and who/how it was built. Personally I'd prefer not to buy a worked engine unless I did it or know who did it. Buying someone else's work is usually a bad idea, usually....
219whp is pretty damn good for a H22. Also there is still a lot of headroom there for you to make more power. For instance you can up that compression a little more with flat valves, thin headgasket, milling the block etc. You can also do some work on your manifold and throttle body, perhaps a Euro-R or your worked stock IM. Also you can upgrade that header etc. etc. The power sounds good, it'd just be worried about longevity, and who/how it was built. Personally I'd prefer not to buy a worked engine unless I did it or know who did it. Buying someone else's work is usually a bad idea, usually....
What would be a good price for this car?... It also has an aftermarket sterio, battery relocation kit and z3 fenders (which I dont' really like). The motor has 50K miles on it and the rest of the car has 112K miles. The car has no rust on it and a good paint job. Has normal wear for a car scratch wise.
Well realistically the car should be less than KBB value. Anytime you add aftermarket parts to a car it DECREASES its value. The problem is i'm sure there is some ricer out there who would be willing to pay 8, but it's actual value is way less than that. As for a good header with that engine I would recommend a good one such as SMSP, RMF, Hy-tech etc. All those cost around a grand. If you don't have that much there are alternative header's you can use.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charliegrs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i agree i mean how many different ways can you design a CAI or a tie bar for a prelude. and where in the original post did you guys see anything that said type r? i see type s pistons but nothnig that says type r</TD></TR></TABLE>
he edited it 3mins after i posted that
and you obiviously have some reading to do......while there is nothing wrong with the intake or tie bar........there are plenty of designs that are better than the ones he has for both parts
power looks fine for what he has.......i don't know about $8k though
depends on what you want to do with the car.......you would need to factor in what you would spend on the car to get it where you want it
if you were gonna buy another one for cheaper and then drop a few thousand in parts into it just to get it to where this one is, then you might as well buy this one......however if you don't like the way he has built this one, then like someone mentioned earlier the parts would actually decrease the value of the car
i guess the next thing to look at would be service records.....b/c with that many miles on the body if some things have not been replaced, they will need to be soon.......really a tough call, if you could get him down to $7k and maybe part out some of the lesser quality parts that you don't want.....you might come out ok
i agree i mean how many different ways can you design a CAI or a tie bar for a prelude. and where in the original post did you guys see anything that said type r? i see type s pistons but nothnig that says type r</TD></TR></TABLE>
he edited it 3mins after i posted that
and you obiviously have some reading to do......while there is nothing wrong with the intake or tie bar........there are plenty of designs that are better than the ones he has for both parts
power looks fine for what he has.......i don't know about $8k though
depends on what you want to do with the car.......you would need to factor in what you would spend on the car to get it where you want it
if you were gonna buy another one for cheaper and then drop a few thousand in parts into it just to get it to where this one is, then you might as well buy this one......however if you don't like the way he has built this one, then like someone mentioned earlier the parts would actually decrease the value of the car
i guess the next thing to look at would be service records.....b/c with that many miles on the body if some things have not been replaced, they will need to be soon.......really a tough call, if you could get him down to $7k and maybe part out some of the lesser quality parts that you don't want.....you might come out ok
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