Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options
10-27-2007, 08:04 PM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (themilman)
An example of someone else's build, similar to mine, good results, I'd like to see 190hp.
FS: Fully built, All-motor B18a1, 180whp/141lb-ft
Crower 404 race cams (300/290 duration, 0.445/0.435 lift)
Crower dual titanium valve springs
Crower titanium retainers
Skunk2 Cam gears
Skunk2 intake manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M adjustable FPR
Spoon Throttle body (70mm)
Custom 3" CAI (can be Converted to short ram for winter)
Balanced & blue-printed bottom end
0.25mm oversize P73-a0 pistons
Knifed, lightened and balanced crank
ACT stage1 clutch
ACT 8lb flywheel
NGK 8mm Wires
MSD distributor cap
210hp and 169lb-ft to the flywheel
Modified by themilman at 9:17 PM 10/27/2007
FS: Fully built, All-motor B18a1, 180whp/141lb-ft
Crower 404 race cams (300/290 duration, 0.445/0.435 lift)
Crower dual titanium valve springs
Crower titanium retainers
Skunk2 Cam gears
Skunk2 intake manifold
AEM Fuel Rail
B&M adjustable FPR
Spoon Throttle body (70mm)
Custom 3" CAI (can be Converted to short ram for winter)
Balanced & blue-printed bottom end
0.25mm oversize P73-a0 pistons
Knifed, lightened and balanced crank
ACT stage1 clutch
ACT 8lb flywheel
NGK 8mm Wires
MSD distributor cap
210hp and 169lb-ft to the flywheel
Modified by themilman at 9:17 PM 10/27/2007
10-28-2007, 06:52 AM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (themilman)
how much money u lookin to spend.... there are two ways to go about it...using factory parts, such as b16 pistons or the aftermarket, pistons and rods and such..... let me know so i know what ur looking for
10-28-2007, 08:22 AM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (themilman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themilman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I'm going to rebuild it, I might as well increase the compression and beef up the internals, right? What the wife don't know won't hurt her
Modified by themilman at 9:01 PM 10/27/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
that made me laugh so much. "scared"
honest all u need is the helms manual. and all the proper tools...
one of the most effective ways to build an engine is to plan it.... not just the parts u want to use... but where your going to buy them... how your goign to pay for them....
and if need be u need to know where you can take your block or send your block to get milled for the head and decked for the block..
nothing is as important as having the proper gauges and tools to measure tolerances and checking for warpage.
its really not hard at all to build an engine... its just very time consuming.
dont rush anything.
get all the tools your going to need first...
i recommend using honda parts that are interchangeable as they can give u a nice boost in power without burning a hole in your wallet.
buy everysingle gasket and bearing. theres actually pretty good kits on ebay that are cheap as hell but i personally have used them multiple times and they work great...
the only parts you shouldnt use from those kits is the timming belt, intake manifold gasket and oil pump pick up gasket. but every other gasket is quality and they even come with acl bearings for the bottom end now.
If I'm going to rebuild it, I might as well increase the compression and beef up the internals, right? What the wife don't know won't hurt her
Modified by themilman at 9:01 PM 10/27/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
that made me laugh so much. "scared"
honest all u need is the helms manual. and all the proper tools...
one of the most effective ways to build an engine is to plan it.... not just the parts u want to use... but where your going to buy them... how your goign to pay for them....
and if need be u need to know where you can take your block or send your block to get milled for the head and decked for the block..
nothing is as important as having the proper gauges and tools to measure tolerances and checking for warpage.
its really not hard at all to build an engine... its just very time consuming.
dont rush anything.
get all the tools your going to need first...
i recommend using honda parts that are interchangeable as they can give u a nice boost in power without burning a hole in your wallet.
buy everysingle gasket and bearing. theres actually pretty good kits on ebay that are cheap as hell but i personally have used them multiple times and they work great...
the only parts you shouldnt use from those kits is the timming belt, intake manifold gasket and oil pump pick up gasket. but every other gasket is quality and they even come with acl bearings for the bottom end now.
10-28-2007, 01:02 PM
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Thanks, cost is secondary at this point, I have the cash. Mostly just want to buy better internals to get more HP. I forgot to mention I have an ECU with a 9,000RPM redline, and my 404's keep producing good power above 7k RPM's. I'm not doing this work myself by the way, I'll have a shop do it.
10-28-2007, 01:12 PM
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Re: (themilman)
Get a set of P30's. that should bump you up to about 11.1:1 compression. while it's torn apart you might as well replace your rod and main bearings, and why not get some arp rod bolts so you can use that 9000rpm redline safely? 
just my .02
good luck with your build dude.
just my .02
good luck with your build dude.
10-28-2007, 02:02 PM
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Thanks, I did find some P30's NIB for $225, plus rods, plus bearings, plus ARP rod bolts, etc., seems like the plan so far. Diff. pistons have diff. pluses n' minuses, pr3's have also been recommended. Or just put in a B20Z block.
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10-29-2007, 03:37 PM
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Please comment on the following items I've found so far:
1. Ebay, currently $250 shipped - Eagle h beam rods, Eagle light weight crank, and srp 81mm 11.5:1 pistons with je piston rings, arp 2000 rod bolts. crank and rods are ls stroke but used in a gsr. compatible with all ls/gsr/type r/si. everything has about 1000 miles on it. main bearing spun in motor so the crank needs a regrind or a micro polish
2. $400 - Wiseco pistons BNIB...81mm 11.5:1cr - Brand new in the box pistons. They are 81mm and yield 11.5:1cr in a b18c motor, but will fit other B series motors....I will also include a set of King bearings...Price is $400 shipped...
3. CP Piston set Brand new in box 84.5mm 13:1 compression - Still in box with ring sets and wrist pins in plastic wrap. $375 /obo
4. OEM P30 Pistons + Rings - Brand New In The Box - $225 shipped
5. Pr3 std pistons on pr4 ls rods w/ ARP hardware. Missing 2 nuts&bolts 81mm bore $150
6. JE/SRP 12.5:1 Pistons 81.5mm on p72 rods. $300
7. JE/SRP 10.5:1 pistons.81.5mm w/ rings $300
8. 89mm crank micropolished $150
9. NEW CTR pistons .25 OS on NEW pr3 rods $325
10. Ebay, currently $61 - NIB SRP Pistons. Standard 81.00mm bore and include rings, wrist pins, locks, and of course the pistons. They will yield roughly a 12.0:1 compression ratio in a GSR or LS/Vtec....depending on the head combination used.
11. NEW SRP 81.5mm 8.5:1CR w/ pins & w/ JE Pro Seal Rings $300
Modified by themilman at 5:04 PM 10/29/2007
Modified by themilman at 11:16 PM 10/29/2007
1. Ebay, currently $250 shipped - Eagle h beam rods, Eagle light weight crank, and srp 81mm 11.5:1 pistons with je piston rings, arp 2000 rod bolts. crank and rods are ls stroke but used in a gsr. compatible with all ls/gsr/type r/si. everything has about 1000 miles on it. main bearing spun in motor so the crank needs a regrind or a micro polish
2. $400 - Wiseco pistons BNIB...81mm 11.5:1cr - Brand new in the box pistons. They are 81mm and yield 11.5:1cr in a b18c motor, but will fit other B series motors....I will also include a set of King bearings...Price is $400 shipped...
3. CP Piston set Brand new in box 84.5mm 13:1 compression - Still in box with ring sets and wrist pins in plastic wrap. $375 /obo
4. OEM P30 Pistons + Rings - Brand New In The Box - $225 shipped
5. Pr3 std pistons on pr4 ls rods w/ ARP hardware. Missing 2 nuts&bolts 81mm bore $150
6. JE/SRP 12.5:1 Pistons 81.5mm on p72 rods. $300
7. JE/SRP 10.5:1 pistons.81.5mm w/ rings $300
8. 89mm crank micropolished $150
9. NEW CTR pistons .25 OS on NEW pr3 rods $325
10. Ebay, currently $61 - NIB SRP Pistons. Standard 81.00mm bore and include rings, wrist pins, locks, and of course the pistons. They will yield roughly a 12.0:1 compression ratio in a GSR or LS/Vtec....depending on the head combination used.
11. NEW SRP 81.5mm 8.5:1CR w/ pins & w/ JE Pro Seal Rings $300
Modified by themilman at 5:04 PM 10/29/2007
Modified by themilman at 11:16 PM 10/29/2007
10-30-2007, 04:50 AM
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Re: (themilman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themilman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do I need ARP head studs?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would want to crank the head down a little bit more, just to be 100% that I will not have a bad HG.
^^^Means yes from me. Would rather spend the extra money now, then have to tear down later and redo
GL with the build
I would want to crank the head down a little bit more, just to be 100% that I will not have a bad HG.
^^^Means yes from me. Would rather spend the extra money now, then have to tear down later and redo
GL with the build
10-30-2007, 06:55 PM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (themilman)
If you have money-sleeve the block and go 84 or 85mm. Pistons in the 11:1 compression range. Strong aftermarket rods. Have the head ported. Oversized valves. Hondata. Hytech header. 2 and 1/2 inch exhaust. PerformerX intake manifold.
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.
10-30-2007, 08:57 PM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (b19coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>
FUN AND CHEAP! you can def build it youself.. one thing i like to have the machine shop do is resized the rods after arps are pressed in.. i also have them hones the surfaces. good luck and don't forget to factor in a tune!
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>
FUN AND CHEAP! you can def build it youself.. one thing i like to have the machine shop do is resized the rods after arps are pressed in.. i also have them hones the surfaces. good luck and don't forget to factor in a tune!
10-31-2007, 07:53 PM
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Re: Leak Down Tests Don't Lie - One Bad Cylinder - Options people, options (b19coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have money-sleeve the block and go 84 or 85mm. Pistons in the 11:1 compression range. Strong aftermarket rods. Have the head ported. Oversized valves. Hondata. Hytech header. 2 and 1/2 inch exhaust. PerformerX intake manifold.
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>
those are the 2 best options from a man who knows.....
Budget? Bore the motor to 81.25mm and run oversized P30 pistons-LS rods with ARP rod bolts. JDM 4-1 header or cheap knock off header. Crome.</TD></TR></TABLE>
those are the 2 best options from a man who knows.....
10-31-2007, 09:59 PM
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I'm opening up a whole new can, what about a tranny swap too? I'd be open to this idea if A: I could find one cheap and B: It would be plug n' play, hand to shop with everything else and they could install it without hassle. Ideas?
10-31-2007, 11:24 PM
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Re: (themilman)
would it be a good idea to be buying new bearings not knowing if you need over sized or not? Or how about if not boring it you might need 81.25
11-01-2007, 06:54 AM
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Re: (themilman)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by themilman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about dropping in a tranny outta a 88-91 CRX? Does it have to be out of an SI? Will it plug n' play? Motor mount mods/swaps?</TD></TR></TABLE>
uh but you have a b series...
you could get a cable b16 tranny but they arent exactly reliable these days
uh but you have a b series...
you could get a cable b16 tranny but they arent exactly reliable these days
11-01-2007, 08:35 AM
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I've heard that the B16 Y1/S1 tranny is a good swap for my B18A, and I thought this was the tranny in the 88-91 CRX SI...........did I miss something? All ideas welcome..............
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