im replacing some brake parts on my friends 95 accord ex.

the rear: pads, and resurface rotors

the front: pads, and new rotors

im having trouble in the rear getting the two screws that hold the rotors on. any ideas on how to get these off? using a screw driver isnt working, but i heard there is a tool that is like a screwdriver that you hit with a hammer that takes these off easier, is this true? any ideas how to get them off?

for the front, there are four bolts near the lug nut studs, do i take these off to take the rotors off? Behind the rotors, there are four bolts aswell, but the axle/cv joint is blocking me from getting to them, so im assuming i have to take the axle off to take those bolts off? is this how i take the rotor off?

 

you'll need a impact driver, you can by that from Home Depot or any motor spare part shop. $15.00 bucks.

 

the impact driver, is that a screwdriver for the screws? or do you mean like an air impact wrench type thing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r3sgtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the impact driver, is that a screwdriver for the screws? or do you mean like an air impact wrench type thing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, it's comes with all screw bits to remove that drum screw. go to the store ask them you'll see it.

then you get a good hammer and hammer on the impact screw driver while turning.
slam and turn action.

it is not an air impact wrench type thing.

 

that thing you hit is called a impact driver.

i hope you didn't stripe the countersunked bolt yet.

 

If you strip the screw dont start cying just yet. Grab the Dremel and cut a slit across the screw and then use the flat bit that came with your impact driver. If all else fails just drill the screw out, take the rotor off, grind the remaining screw off and leave it or drill it again and use a screw extractor to get the rest out and buy a new set. Sounds complicated but it isnt, always use PB Blaster, I have done all of these suggestions (including grinding them off) and I have never had a problem. As for the front rotors, haha, search because you are not the only one who asked and I am not the only one who gave up (I ran out of time so i pad slapped it and it stops great).

 

haha, cool thanks, i found this link for the front:

http://www.autozone.com/servle...2.jsp


so i got an impact driver earlier. when i hit it hard enough with the small sledge hammer, the bit on the end will automtaically turn right?

 

no BFH needed, just regular average joe size is perfectly fine.

the impact driver will turn the force of the hammer impact into a twisting force and most importantly grips(so it will not stripe the slot.

MAKE DOUBLE SURE you are on the right rotation, no use hitting it with it turning clockwise

 

Hmm.. Everyone seems to have a problem with these stupid little screws.. First of all, you don't really need an impact driver.. I've seen some idiots snap the bits in the rotor alignment screws..

But yeah, try using the impact driver first.. If that fails.. Don't be stupid and drill it out.. Just go and get your trusty set of punches.. Use a centering punch and make a mark on the outer edge of the screw. Then use that same punch and turn the screw out by punching it out.. Not the easiest way but it works when all else fails..

Another thing, what causes the screw to get stuck in the first place is the corrosion between the rotor and the rear face of those screws.. A good hard hit on the screw's face helps out too..

Oh yeah.. forgot about the front rotors... I've a got a sure fire way of getting them out.. Just don't forget to buy the front wheel bearings also..

Do the usual removal process of axle nut, lower ball joint, axle, speed sensor wire (if applicable), brake hose.. Then swing the knuckle off to the side and remove the four 12mm head bolts from the back of the hub. Take those to the nearest hardware store and get another set of longer bolts, just remember to make sure they're the correct thread pitch. Take those bolts and screw them into the hub halfway. Now take your trusty Air Hammer or 3lbs sledge and hit the bolts as hard as you can.. Don't forget the PB Blaster, soaking the back of the hub helps out. At first it might not come out, but I kid you not, it works..

 

anymore ideas on the front rotor part? havent started to do it yet, but i heard they are really hard to get off...going to do it tomorrow afternoon so if anyone has any suggestions how to separate the rotor from the rest of assembly, lmk thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PnX-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Take those bolts and screw them into the hub halfway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

don't mean to nit-pick, but your actually screwing the bolts into the bearing. I got what you meant though.

Also, you don't need a new bearing unless your bearing is shot or if you remove the hub from the bearing. But doing it this way doesn't remove the hub from the bearing so you don't need to replace it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r3sgtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anymore ideas on the front rotor part?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, take a look in the Accord FAQ.

There are some good links related to brakes in there. Here's one...

Accord Brake Tutorial

There are some other links that discuss brake upgrades but within those upgrade threads, some discuss ways of removing the front rotors and some way of not doing it.

An alternative to what PnX-R said, since your are replacing the rotor anyway, once the four bolts holding the bearing are removed you could try hitting the back side of the rotor to try and free the bearing from the knuckle. If that doesn't work then try the longer bolts and big hammer/air hammer. But whatever you do, don't use a slide hammer or other way that would seperate the hub from the bearing. If you do that, it's recommended you replace the bearing. I know people have gotten away without replacing the bearing but there are some who haven't. I would hate to go through the whole job and then a week later your bearing goes and you have to do the whole thing again. So if you do seperate the hub from the bearing, replace the bearing to be safe.

Also, don't forget to loosen those four bolts on the hub face before removing the brakes. It's easier to loosen them at that point than to get them off once the hub/rotor/bearing assembly is off the car.

 

ok, so i went to auto zone and rented a slide hammer things, it bolts up to the lug nut studs with a long pole that screws into it and you slide this thing out really hard and the rotor/hub came off. however, half the wheel bearing came off as well, is this good or bad? i put it back together and seems fine to me...

 

ok, well the above post answered my question.. but do you think it would be okay to keep the bearing in there?

what does a bad bearing do? does it make noise or what? any idea how much one bearing costs from kragens or autozone?

 

Well since you've managed to seperate the bearing from the hub, you might as well replace the bearing. No point in doing the job twice.. And to answer question, a bad bearing will hum somewhat.. Worst case scenario, your wheel falls off while you're driving.

 

I wish you would have read my post before using that slide hammer.

When I bought mine for my 95 EX I bought them from Majestic Honda (HAP), they are listed for $44 on there. On the AutoZone website your looking at about $60-90 depending on which brand you buy.

You could get lucky or you could have trouble, it's sorta pot luck. Some people who have done that haven't had any problems, some have. Me personally, I'd just replace those bearings instead of having to do the job again.

The problem with seperating the bearing and the hub is that if you get dirt in there it's just going to kill that bearing.

When you used that slide hammer, did you remove the 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle holding the bearing or not? If you did remove them, then used the slide hammer and the bearing still stayed in the knuckle, your best bet would be to take that knuckle off and take it to a machine shop and have them press that bearing out of the knuckle. It shouldn't be that tight but over time with rust it sometimes gets stuck in there pretty good. Thats what mine did. Make sure you or the machine cleans that hole (where the bearing mounts into) real good to help prevent it from rusting in there that bad again.