00 Honda CIvic Si
00 Honda Civic Si seems to bog when full throttle is applied and doesn’t pick up speed after 4th or 5th gear. If applied slowly and gradually increase it, car starts to pick up speed slowly and sacrifices 0-100 times. Checked TPS, MAP sensor and compression tested at 200-220 on all 4 cylinders. Swapped ECU and seemed to help a little for a while but feels like the car is not performing like it should. Any help is highly appreciated, thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by steveo2000em1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would check spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
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x2. ALWAYS start with the most simple things first. See if your airbox is full of **** or if the filter is filthy.
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x2. ALWAYS start with the most simple things first. See if your airbox is full of **** or if the filter is filthy.
Intake is clean, spark plugs and wires have been replaced. I checked the catalyc converter today and seemed ok, I would say 10-15% is clogged, but I don't know if that's enough to affect the performance. It passed a smog test on 11/13/06. New Genuine Honda head,intake & exhaust gaskets were replaced along with a Honda fuel filter.
Modified by Evilparadiz3 at 9:51 PM 11/14/2006
Modified by Evilparadiz3 at 9:51 PM 11/14/2006
I really think you should replace the cap and rotor. It's cheap and it may fix your problem.
How's the fuel system? Did you check the filter? Maybe you got some crappy gas, water in fuel, blah blah blah...
How's the fuel system? Did you check the filter? Maybe you got some crappy gas, water in fuel, blah blah blah...
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i'm going to have to say its just a normal b16....no torque so that is why it feels like that...i'm pretty sure all the other b16 owners can get in on this, b16's will feel sluggish as if it was bogging flooring it from low rpms 4 and 5 gear...
I would definitely check your ignition timing. Get a light and check it to make sure its good. You will lose alot of power when its out of whack. Also if you want faster 100mph times try throwing a built ls block under that b16 head!!
I would definately check timing to see if it's in spec like many of the users have already stated. I've also heard that it could also be o2 related issues, but then I can't be positive on that just a thought.
I know b16's are know to have weak hp & tq but the car always ran smooth and strong, never felt like this, so I know something definitley happened. Both O2 Sensors were replaced in July 2005, but it's possible they went bad. A new Genuine Honda fuel filter was installed and nothing but 76 or Mobil 91 Octane has been used. I will change the cap & rotor with new Honda ones and verify timing next. I did replace the ECU and seemed to help, what can cause the PCM or the ECU to blow?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evilparadiz3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">00 Honda Civic Si seems to bog when full throttle is applied and doesn’t pick up speed after 4th or 5th gear. If applied slowly and gradually increase it, car starts to pick up speed slowly and sacrifices 0-100 times. Checked TPS, MAP sensor and compression tested at 200-220 on all 4 cylinders. Swapped ECU and seemed to help a little for a while but feels like the car is not performing like it should. Any help is highly appreciated, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It'll take a while to wind out fourth gear, it tops at 110 mph. Don't even try to accelerate in fourth from 60 on, or 5th from 70 on.
It'd be like trying to jack off with a limp dick. Just don't work too well.
Anyway, have you checked your fuel delivery? injectors and pump?
It'll take a while to wind out fourth gear, it tops at 110 mph. Don't even try to accelerate in fourth from 60 on, or 5th from 70 on.
It'd be like trying to jack off with a limp dick. Just don't work too well.
Anyway, have you checked your fuel delivery? injectors and pump?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evilparadiz3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will change the cap & rotor with new Honda ones and verify timing next. I did replace the ECU and seemed to help, what can cause the PCM or the ECU to blow?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Only other thing... are you running factory recommended plugs? The cheap ones can cause a lot of carbon buildup cause they're not hot enough... over time this buildup can tweak the valves or cause improper seating = lost compression.
The reason replacing the ECU seemed to help a little is that the ECU was initially in a default mode... it hadn't learned anything from the car yet. Something being off is making your ecu run the engine funny cause it's not getting the feedback its looking for. Not enough to throw a cel but enough to make it run poorly...
Only other thing... are you running factory recommended plugs? The cheap ones can cause a lot of carbon buildup cause they're not hot enough... over time this buildup can tweak the valves or cause improper seating = lost compression.
The reason replacing the ECU seemed to help a little is that the ECU was initially in a default mode... it hadn't learned anything from the car yet. Something being off is making your ecu run the engine funny cause it's not getting the feedback its looking for. Not enough to throw a cel but enough to make it run poorly...
I definitley don't expect a stock b16 to accelerate on 4th from 60 any time soon, but something did go wrong here, performance was awsome before this catastrophe. What's a good testing method to see if the injectors are delivering the proper fuel amount and pump is operating properly?
I used to use Bosch Platinum 4 Plugs, but now using either NGK or Denso Iridium Plugs. I also had the head redone at Alaniz Technologies after the problem occured, (Thinking the problem was caused due to a bent valve, blown seal or gasket) so there is absolutely no carbon build up now. I figured the reason why it seemed to perform a little better after swapping the ECU was because of the same reason miahmouse. I really appreciate all the input guys, just trying to fix the issue my self before I blow some dough taking it to a shop, like most of you out there. Any more ideas will be highly appreciated, thanks!
I used to use Bosch Platinum 4 Plugs, but now using either NGK or Denso Iridium Plugs. I also had the head redone at Alaniz Technologies after the problem occured, (Thinking the problem was caused due to a bent valve, blown seal or gasket) so there is absolutely no carbon build up now. I figured the reason why it seemed to perform a little better after swapping the ECU was because of the same reason miahmouse. I really appreciate all the input guys, just trying to fix the issue my self before I blow some dough taking it to a shop, like most of you out there. Any more ideas will be highly appreciated, thanks!
The only way to test the injectors is using special equipment. Some local shops are able to service injectors, they should be able to flow test and diagnose any issues.
I'm still gonna say something with timing, cam or ignition. You may test the coil and plug wires, perhaps they're slightly sub-par. If all is well there I'd go to a compression test and then leakdown (head is new etc. but I'd still check). When they did the head job did they remove everything or just the valves? Possible that they missed something...
The obd2 ecu's are soo goddamn sensitive (in my experience) that if something electronic was off (sensor) or fuel mix was off it would throw a code. Leads me to believe your cam timing is off by a space... or ignition timing is way far back... ecu is compensating but it's lacking power....
I'm still gonna say something with timing, cam or ignition. You may test the coil and plug wires, perhaps they're slightly sub-par. If all is well there I'd go to a compression test and then leakdown (head is new etc. but I'd still check). When they did the head job did they remove everything or just the valves? Possible that they missed something...
The obd2 ecu's are soo goddamn sensitive (in my experience) that if something electronic was off (sensor) or fuel mix was off it would throw a code. Leads me to believe your cam timing is off by a space... or ignition timing is way far back... ecu is compensating but it's lacking power....
now I know that the cat has already been checked but I have seen cats do some weird things. do you have a test pipe you can swap in temp? or even run the car open header for a quick drive. My cat got so clogged the back pressure would shut the engine off. I jacked the car up at a par and ride and drove home open header. car ran perfect. I have a b16 in a 93 hb
I'll definitley check timing, could be that my dizzy fried too. I did perform a compression test on all 4 cylinders to be between 200-220, however a leak down test was performed by Joe Alaniz himself. The head was completeley dissasembled and inspected, hot tanked, port and polish, 3 angle valve job, .5mm oversized exhaust valves, new seals, dual springs, titanium retainers and chamber work. The work was done after the problem occured, so even if Joe missed something, the problem still exists. I couldn't agree more with you miahmouse, the ECU is an art of work but not without it's flaw, so delicate.
A test pipe will be installed soon after timing and fuel system have been verified, but is there a way to test the o2 sensors or bypass them?
A test pipe will be installed soon after timing and fuel system have been verified, but is there a way to test the o2 sensors or bypass them?
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