why does my autometer tach jumps when blinkers or high beams are turned on?
i installed an autometer 5" tach and i'm having a problem with the needle jumping. when the ignition is turned to on (jumps once), blinkers blink (jumps with every blink of the arrow), or when the high beams are turned on (jumps once) the tach will jump about 400 rpm. i haven't started the car yet after installing the tach so i don't know what symptoms will appear then. does anybody have any ideas on what it could be?
it might be really closely wired to the blinker power wire and might be recieving some frequency through there.
well, it also jumps when i turn the ignition on, or when i turn on the high beams; not just with the blinker.
Ok, when I had my Tach wired, I put the positive where the cigarrete lighter is. It was a good place I think. Take out the little pocket, you see some screws, take screws out, then get the positive wire on the cig. lighter, now get your pos. wire for your Tach and wire it. And for your negative, leave it somewere that has ground. You should be set
Modified by LSintegra4 at 12:52 AM 11/12/2006
Modified by LSintegra4 at 12:52 AM 11/12/2006
how is that any better than wiring it directly to the fuse box? the only problem i can think of is that it's not run through a fuse, running the risk of frying the tach. i don't think the spot i wired the power wire to is the problem though. i wired 3 gauges, a turbo timer, and a boost controller the same way and i'm not having any problems with those.
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That was my Idea, that was were I wired mine up and didnt have a problem, mayb you could try it, but I guess you think it is a bad idea. So i dont knwo what to say
im not saying its a bad idea; you can wire the power wire to a lot of different places. i'm saying that i don't think the power wire is the cause of this strange malfunction, since i have other stuff wired to the same spot and this is the only thing with a problem. keep those ideas coming though.
it was supposedly wired to the rpm signal wire going to the gauge cluster. if it was ran to the wrong wire, what wire could cause this to happen?
I think mayb it is wired to the wrong wire. Go and tell me what color you wired it up to. And were the wire is located
white-light
blk-ground
green- rpm signa(rubber plug by driver shock tower with i blue wire)
red-12v power
blk-ground
green- rpm signa(rubber plug by driver shock tower with i blue wire)
red-12v power
you could try temporarily wiring your new tachs input to the blue wire under the hood.
usually it's a single blue wire that goes into a little black plug and that's the only wire there.
also....you should most definitely wire your new tachs power to IGNITION not ACC
that could be the cause for the jump.
don't wire it to the fusebox...wire it into your ignition harnes....it has heavy gauge wiring that can usually support a few accessories....the fusebox output has thinner wiring that can't handle the current needs
usually it's a single blue wire that goes into a little black plug and that's the only wire there.
also....you should most definitely wire your new tachs power to IGNITION not ACC
that could be the cause for the jump.
don't wire it to the fusebox...wire it into your ignition harnes....it has heavy gauge wiring that can usually support a few accessories....the fusebox output has thinner wiring that can't handle the current needs
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay20adc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">white-light
blk-ground
green- rpm signa(rubber plug by driver shock tower with i blue wire)
red-12v power</TD></TR></TABLE>
here you go
white on AMT(autometer tach) to red/black of the car
blk to chassis ground paint-free non-shared ground
green to rpm input....blue like him and me said
red to IGNITION power
lemme explain a little bit....
your ignition switch is a 3 position switch
1 ACC
2 IGN
3 start
when you first turn the key on...only the acc wires are powered up.
then when you click once more the ignition comes on.
when you click 3 times the accessory wires drop out and only the ignition and start wires are powered until you let go and then the car stops cranking and the acc wires gets powered again.
if you have your AMT wired to acc, the voltage drops a little bit when you turn the key to ignition cuz your fuel pump and ecu and all the other **** in your ride turns on too...that's prolly where you're getting your "spike" in the rpm.
try switching the red to the ignition wire instead of accessory
doing this little switch in the wiring should solve your woes
if not, lemme know...i see wirez in my sleep
but i have seen my fair share of a honda underdash
blk-ground
green- rpm signa(rubber plug by driver shock tower with i blue wire)
red-12v power</TD></TR></TABLE>
here you go
white on AMT(autometer tach) to red/black of the car
blk to chassis ground paint-free non-shared ground
green to rpm input....blue like him and me said
red to IGNITION power
lemme explain a little bit....
your ignition switch is a 3 position switch
1 ACC
2 IGN
3 start
when you first turn the key on...only the acc wires are powered up.
then when you click once more the ignition comes on.
when you click 3 times the accessory wires drop out and only the ignition and start wires are powered until you let go and then the car stops cranking and the acc wires gets powered again.
if you have your AMT wired to acc, the voltage drops a little bit when you turn the key to ignition cuz your fuel pump and ecu and all the other **** in your ride turns on too...that's prolly where you're getting your "spike" in the rpm.
try switching the red to the ignition wire instead of accessory
doing this little switch in the wiring should solve your woes
if not, lemme know...i see wirez in my sleep
but i have seen my fair share of a honda underdash
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team2n1hatch
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Jun 18, 2003 09:37 AM





